motul 8100 vs castrol new edge M

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 6, 2021
Messages
60
Location
Ellada,EU
Hi guys, first post here..

I drive a bmw 1600 gasoline e87 natural aspired. I have conclude some info about oils and I would like to share it with you.Feel free to contribute,argue e.tc..

from new 2010,i used to go with dealers oils,bmw-castrol 5-30 until 2015 and bmw-shell until 2017.then i moved to castrol again titanium edge 5-30 because with the bmw-shell was disappointed. this year i changed to castrol edge 5-30 M. higher viscosity and flash point and lspi protection ,sn plus which is not meant to be useful for my engine ,its for turbocharged ,but a good protection could be useful. after all my engine is prone to lspi.

now i want to try another brand.i wanted mobil ,but no 5-30 approval anymore.i know, it doesn't ,matter but i want to go with the book. and recipe changed ,mot mush ester/pao anymore.so lets go to motul.100% synthetic? no..thats not the case. hc from now and on.maybe they have some different recipe but its hc.no much ester/pao here anymore too.from analysis just some 1-5% ester but all of my friends like motul.actually there arent any real synthetics anymore ,except the us ones,redline,amsoil,torco,bardahl..but there were complains with them.maybe a bit heavy mixure for our engines these pao/ester mix..

so i am liking to motul.
and this is the question.which one for my engine? i want to choose one and for the rest of the engine's life not to change.i have 120.000 km.i have to choose between the x-clean series which is ll04 norm and the x-cess series which is ll01. now luckily my engine takes both.but which is better for my engine considering that our fuel in Europe are with less ethanol and low saps.

First of all my engine doesn't have a leak problem.doesn't burn oil.I change every 6 months maybe thats why.So my first question is..

5-30 or 5-40?

second //

X-clean or x-cess line?

Now if I could easily find the motul bmw specific ll04 5-40 all my problems would have been solved,but its rare and I have to shop online from another country.Best was united kingdom but with Brexit not anymore..

Does ambient temps play a major role to choosing the viscosity? Our temps is above 5 C in winter and above 35 C during summer.sould I consider outside temp or engine temp is all that matters because 5-30s have molecules that strengthen the oil and becomes more viscous and doesn't get much thinner at high temps?
Or go with 5-40 to be safe? motul by the way places as specific for bmws a 5-40 oil.

t.Another criteria for choosing viscosity is the use. I do a lot of start-stop,short distances intown for 70% during the year.I know that more frequent changes is the cure,but does viscosity has to do with the protection of the engine too? Which is better for that use,5-30 or 5-40? a heavy -30 , a light -40 or a normal -40 close to 14 kv?Opinions vary. bearings bmw for my model,from 0-30,0-40,5-30,5-40. although oils tend to be thinner through the years. x clean and x cess gen 2 oils are much thinner than gen 1. it has to do with the new tighter engines.

So to sum up..

81005-30 x clean +


81005-30 x cleanefe

5-40 x clean 8100 line, similar to motul specific ll04 5-40 bmw ,as far as tech sheet concern

or 5-40 x cess 8100 line

oh and there is one mobil

mobil super3000 xe1,5-30








And then it's the fuel.If I choose the latter 5-40 x cess with more saps ..Will these full saps harm my fuel emission system? Which is used to mid-low saps oil and low saps gasoline? Someone ,Gokhan i think from this forum, claimed that a 25% less protection-wear is if go with mid saps.True?

so what flash point and viscosity tell us really?

i mean,comparing data from 3 same weight oils.

castrol 5-30 M

flash point 228
viscosity 173
kv 12

motul 8100 x clean + 5-30

flash point 226
viscosity 167
kv 11,8


motul 8100 x clean efe 5-30

flash point 232
viscosity 169
kv 12,1



mobil super3000 xe1 5-30
flash point 232
kv 12
viscosity ?



i mean , i read all these stuff for about a year and still don't know if an oil with higher viscosity or flash point is better from another or is just the recipe of the base oil which makes oil better,which we will never learn from msds.



Which motul one to select? or stay with castrol edge M ? i am between these 2 brands. Please tell me your opinion.

p.s i read that if i change brand oil and/or viscosity i have to make an engine flush but not with specific chemicals ,but using the next oil..for example.if i run castrol 5-30 and want to go to motul 5-30 or 5-40 i have to make an engine flush like this..

first i empty the old oil..castrol 5-30..then i put back the empty tap /screw and fill about half of the new oil that i will use,meaning motul 5-30 and start the engine running for 10 minutes.then stop the engine and empty the new oil again.engine is empty and ready to fill with the new oil motul 5-30..

we do that because we want to fully empty the engine from the additives and chemical synthesis of the old oil..if the old oil is not flushed this way then the additives and chemicals from the old and new will struggle with each-other which one to remain and there will be a mixture of oils and might for the worse for the engine protection and wear until one of them wins.so its better to fully clean the engine from old molcules . what is your opinion,is it a myth? if so then why all the experts claim that you need 2-3 changes for the new oil to get the real benefits for the engine?

sorry for my first long post and thank you for your answers..
 
Joined
Dec 26, 2005
Messages
18,886
Location
Upper Midwest
Your post if full of incorrect assumptions and statements and it's hard to know where to begin. First off, how is flash point relevant? That documents the temperature at which the oil will ignite in the presence of a flame. Plus this statement "because 5-30s have molecules that strengthen the oil and becomes more viscous and doesn't get much thinner at high temps?" No, all oil thins as the temperature increases but multi-viscosity oils thicken less when cooled.

Considering your level of understanding illustrated by your post I would stick with an oil that carries the approval required by the manufacturer.
 

alex1212

Thread starter
Joined
Aug 6, 2021
Messages
60
Location
Ellada,EU
Your post if full of incorrect assumptions and statements and it's hard to know where to begin. First off, how is flash point relevant? That documents the temperature at which the oil will ignite in the presence of a flame. Plus this statement "because 5-30s have molecules that strengthen the oil and becomes more viscous and doesn't get much thinner at high temps?" No, all oil thins as the temperature increases but multi-viscosity oils thicken less when cooled.

Considering your level of understanding illustrated by your post I would stick with an oil that carries the approval required by the manufacturer.
i said ''so what flash point and viscosity tell us really?" , i asked ...i never said its relevant to sthing..what do you mean by ''relevant''..i have read a lot of the forum,as i said , before i make this post.
so some say that the most important thing to look into specs of choosing an oil is flash point ,tbn,hths and kv100..am i wrong? when there is a conversation about a post concerning which oil to choose or a comparison between oils et.c. thousands of posts, they all comment about these specs..so how is flash point irrelevant? when i just asked how its relevant? since everybody spot on it when an oil choice is talked in here.

next, i said ,the whole frase, ''Our temps is above 5 C in winter and above 35 C during summer. should I consider outside temp or engine temp is all that matters because 5-30s have molecules that strengthen the oil and becomes more viscous and doesn't get much thinner at high temps?''
sorry if you didn't understand it ,i said that in comparison to 5-40 not all oils..what i wanted to ask really is ,if ambient temps play a role in the viscosity of an oil then a 5-30 or a 5-40 is more viscous to that high temps.i assumed you will realise that so i wont write more and more to this long already post.

i am not an oil expert , like Gokhan but i have read a lot about oils for years..maybe its the language, its not my mother one, i could talk months about my mechanical knowledge and level but i cant because i am not that efficient in English technical terms. maybe if i can send you my posts from a greek forum to understand my level, but then it will be all greek to you and i will say that your level is not efficient enough.:)

how about to begin with the ones that i ask..because as i said although i have knowledge of enginering i always ask to learn new things..so what about ambient temps,about flush with using oil? you could answer to a lot of things but instead of this you just comment my level and ...
 
Joined
Dec 26, 2005
Messages
18,886
Location
Upper Midwest
i said ''so what flash point and viscosity tell us really?" , i asked ...i never said its relevant to sthing..what do you mean by ''relevant''..i have read a lot of the forum,as i said , before i make this post.
so some say that the most important thing to look into specs of choosing an oil is flash point ,tbn,hths and kv100..am i wrong? when there is a conversation about a post concerning which oil to choose or a comparison between oils et.c. thousands of posts, they all comment about these specs..so how is flash point irrelevant? when i just asked how its relevant? since everybody spot on it when an oil choice is talked in here.

next, i said ,the whole frase, ''Our temps is above 5 C in winter and above 35 C during summer. should I consider outside temp or engine temp is all that matters because 5-30s have molecules that strengthen the oil and becomes more viscous and doesn't get much thinner at high temps?''
sorry if you didn't understand it ,i said that in comparison to 5-40 not all oils..what i wanted to ask really is ,if ambient temps play a role in the viscosity of an oil then a 5-30 or a 5-40 is more viscous to that high temps.i assumed you will realise that so i wont write more and more to this long already post.

i am not an oil expert , like Gokhan but i have read a lot about oils for years..maybe its the language, its not my mother one, i could talk months about my mechanical knowledge and level but i cant because i am not that efficient in English technical terms. maybe if i can send you my posts from a greek forum to understand my level, but then it will be all greek to you and i will say that your level is not efficient enough.:)

how about to begin with the ones that i ask..because as i said although i have knowledge of enginering i always ask to learn new things..so what about ambient temps,about flush with using oil? you could answer to a lot of things but instead of this you just comment my level and ...
In the context of your question flash point is not relevant.

A 40-grade oil will be thicker than a 30-grade.
 

alex1212

Thread starter
Joined
Aug 6, 2021
Messages
60
Location
Ellada,EU
I would use the Castrol Edge 5w-30M in that engine
this one is nice too ..https://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-ultra-professional-am-l-5w-30.html
but i can find in local shops too..
what oil do you use since you are from Europe, Finland as i recon?
 
Joined
Dec 6, 2017
Messages
1,002
Location
Suomi
this one is nice too ..https://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-ultra-professional-am-l-5w-30.html
but i can find in local shops too..
what oil do you use since you are from Europe, Finland as i recon?
Well, i would use the Castrol Edge 5-30M.
 

alex1212

Thread starter
Joined
Aug 6, 2021
Messages
60
Location
Ellada,EU
In the context of your question flash point is not relevant.

A 40-grade oil will be thicker than a 30-grade.
which part of the context? sorry i dont get it.can you be more specific? so in your point of you is flash point relevant to sthing when choosing an oil?
 
Joined
Dec 26, 2005
Messages
18,886
Location
Upper Midwest
which part of the context? sorry i dont get it.can you be more specific? so in your point of you is flash point relevant to sthing when choosing an oil?
Not for me, some people try and read that to infer base stock composition but that isn't relevant to me either. What is relevant to me is the approvals, specifications or licenses the oil holds (or does not hold).

Flash point is for emergency responders to assess the danger a substance may present under high heat and flame.
 

alex1212

Thread starter
Joined
Aug 6, 2021
Messages
60
Location
Ellada,EU
Not for me, some people try and read that to infer base stock composition but that isn't relevant to me either. What is relevant to me is the approvals, specifications or licenses the oil holds (or does not hold).

Flash point is for emergency responders to assess the danger a substance may present under high heat and flame.
now we are talking!! yeah, that is what i was referring too, if its true..i think thats the majority of people who have engine oil as a hobby.in all the forums i have read so far. a big example of this is in all forums is the mobil esp formula 5-30 and the new esp 5-30 with almost 20 points down flash point..old 254 ,new 235 i think...the explanation they gine is the turn of mobil to a less pao/ester at base oil and no more full synthetic from these elements but more hc synhtesis with stronger additives .i hope my english are good enough in technical terms speaking.

...and then you say ''What is relevant to me is the approvals, specifications or licenses the oil holds (or does not hold).'' but thats so simple.. is like you equal your level of understanding with me :)
 
Joined
Dec 26, 2005
Messages
18,886
Location
Upper Midwest
now we are talking!! yeah, that is what i was referring too, if its true..i think thats the majority of people who have engine oil as a hobby.in all the forums i have read so far. a big example of this is in all forums is the mobil esp formula 5-30 and the new esp 5-30 with almost 20 points down flash point..old 254 ,new 235 i think...the explanation they gine is the turn of mobil to a less pao/ester at base oil and no more full synthetic from these elements but more hc synhtesis with stronger additives .i hope my english are good enough in technical terms speaking.

...and then you say ''What is relevant to me is the approvals, specifications or licenses the oil holds (or does not hold).'' but thats so simple.. is like you equal your level of understanding with me :)
Isn't that something. So simple yet apparently so hard to grasp by so many.

Who would have thought that real-world performance tests accurately represent the real-world performance of the product?
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2010
Messages
6,124
Location
Atlanta,GA
now we are talking!! yeah, that is what i was referring too, if its true..i think thats the majority of people who have engine oil as a hobby.in all the forums i have read so far. a big example of this is in all forums is the mobil esp formula 5-30 and the new esp 5-30 with almost 20 points down flash point..old 254 ,new 235 i think...the explanation they gine is the turn of mobil to a less pao/ester at base oil and no more full synthetic from these elements but more hc synhtesis with stronger additives .i hope my english are good enough in technical terms speaking.

...and then you say ''What is relevant to me is the approvals, specifications or licenses the oil holds (or does not hold).'' but thats so simple.. is like you equal your level of understanding with me :)
It's best to provide your country in your profile that way we can provide context for what you're asking. That being said a lot of people just buy based upon the approvals (ex, BMW LL04, Mercedes Benz 229.52, etc) from one of the major oil companies.
 

alex1212

Thread starter
Joined
Aug 6, 2021
Messages
60
Location
Ellada,EU
Isn't that something. So simple yet apparently so hard to grasp by so many.

Who would have thought that real-world performance tests accurately represent the real-world performance of the product?
yes,but not all oils which are approved for a car -engine are the same. some are better than others ,so thats we are here..

ok, so whats your opinion about

1) the ''engine wash-flush'' the way that i describe?

or 2) ''.Another criteria for choosing viscosity is the use. I do a lot of start-stop,short distances intown for 70% during the year.I know that more frequent changes is the cure,but does viscosity has to do with the protection of the engine too? Which is better for that use,5-30 or 5-40?"

and 3) ''Does ambient temps play a major role to choosing the viscosity?''

i insist because these are not parametres that a car company considers when an approval is made.they address to the majority of the drivers and don't care about anything else.for example..i asked the bmw hellas in my country if the 5-30 they suggest is the wright choice of viscosity.they didn't mention the bearings and so on , their answer was ''5-40 is for hot climates'' and i asked them back, well with a reference to these temps that i describe in my context,''is greece considered a cold country?'' and then the answer was ,''bmw europe tell us to put 5-30''. i mean tourists from houston that came to greece this summer said that its hotter than their clima.so how can greece is considered a cold country?

saying this ,because i want to emphasize that companies just want to make things easy for them. they give a viscosity norm for europe from north to south and east to west because they want to make things simple for service and expenses and for customers too.imagine they have 2 kinds of barrels , inside the service area, one for the north countries and one for the south countries and double the orders to bmw-shell provider?

and if they do that for their convinience how am i sure that 5-30 is not going to mess my engine and creat some long term problems due to overheating? if that ever happens? these are some subjects to discuss about here, who ever feels like it!
 
Last edited:

alex1212

Thread starter
Joined
Aug 6, 2021
Messages
60
Location
Ellada,EU
It's best to provide your country in your profile that way we can provide context for what you're asking. That being said a lot of people just buy based upon the approvals (ex, BMW LL04, Mercedes Benz 229.52, etc) from one of the major oil companies.
thank you for your advise ,done already! i am not from that people as you understand ,if i was then i wouldn't have subscribed to the forum..
 
Joined
Dec 26, 2005
Messages
18,886
Location
Upper Midwest
yes,but not all oils which are approved for a car -engine are the same. some are better than others ,so thats we are here..

ok, so whats your opinion about

1) the ''engine wash-flush'' the way that i describe?

or 2) ''.Another criteria for choosing viscosity is the use. I do a lot of start-stop,short distances intown for 70% during the year.I know that more frequent changes is the cure,but does viscosity has to do with the protection of the engine too? Which is better for that use,5-30 or 5-40?"

and 3) ''Does ambient temps play a major role to choosing the viscosity?''

i insist because these are not parametres that a car company considers when an approval is made.they address to the majority of the drivers and don't care about anything else.for example..i asked the bmw hellas in my country if the 5-30 they suggest is the wright choice of viscosity.they didn't mention the bearings and so on , their answer was ''5-40 is for hot climates'' and i asked them back, well with a reference to these temps that i describe in my context,''is greece considered a cold country?'' and then the answer was ,''bmw europe tell us to put 5-30''. i mean tourists from houston that came to greece this summer said that its hotter than their clima.so how can greece is considered a cold country?

saying this ,because i want to emphasize that companies just want to make things easy for them. they give a viscosity norm for europe from north to south and east to west because they want to make things simple for service and expenses and for customers too.imagine they have 2 kinds of barrels , inside the service area, one for the north countries and one for the south countries and double the orders to bmw-shell provider?

and if they do that for their convinience how am i sure that 5-30 is not going to mess my engine and creat some long term problems due to overheating? if that ever happens? these are some subjects to discuss about here, who ever feels like it!
That's quite a collection of baseless fears and conjecture. But that's kind of what you get when you rely on reading the tea leaves rather than basing a decision on science and verified results.

One thing however, ambient temperature and so forth is related to the winter rating of the oil. That may or may not be relevant depending on your climate. I really don't know what you're talking about in regards to overheating, perhaps someone else can tease out the question and answer.

At operation it's also not really about the grade either it's about the HT/HS. Splitting hairs with grade is pretty meaningless when a given HT/HS requirement can span more than one grade.
 

alex1212

Thread starter
Joined
Aug 6, 2021
Messages
60
Location
Ellada,EU
That's quite a collection of baseless fears and conjecture. But that's kind of what you get when you rely on reading the tea leaves rather than basing a decision on science and verified results.
which are they ? after 5 posts ,i am still waiting..i am based to mechanic knowledge, if thats not science then we should all stop going to tech college and learn philosophy..like you do.
One thing however, ambient temperature and so forth is related to the winter rating of the oil. That may or may not be relevant depending on your climate. I really don't know what you're talking about in regards to overheating, perhaps someone else can tease out the question and answer.
sorry but i think you are not relevant to answer my questions at all..thats what i came up given by the first posts..
At operation it's also not really about the grade either it's about the HT/HS. Splitting hairs with grade is pretty meaningless when a given HT/HS requirement can span more than one grade.
well there is a relation between grade and hths. most of the -30s are between 3,5 and 3,6 and most of the -40s are between 3,6-3,7. you can't find a -30 lower than 3,5 and a -40 lower than 3.6 . so there isn't so much diffrence beteween them that you can say its the hths is the major factor for operating.
viscosity is,, thats why there are so many examples..from science side..
 

Attachments

  • ladia1.jpg
    ladia1.jpg
    199.5 KB · Views: 29
Joined
Jul 12, 2005
Messages
120
Location
DFW area, TX
Hi guys, first post here..

I drive a bmw 1600 gasoline e87 natural aspired. I have conclude some info about oils and I would like to share it with you.Feel free to contribute,argue e.tc..

from new 2010,i used to go with dealers oils,bmw-castrol 5-30 until 2015 and bmw-shell until 2017.then i moved to castrol again titanium edge 5-30 because with the bmw-shell was disappointed. this year i changed to castrol edge 5-30 M. higher viscosity and flash point and lspi protection ,sn plus which is not meant to be useful for my engine ,its for turbocharged ,but a good protection could be useful. after all my engine is prone to lspi.

now i want to try another brand.i wanted mobil ,but no 5-30 approval anymore.i know, it doesn't ,matter but i want to go with the book. and recipe changed ,mot mush ester/pao anymore.so lets go to motul.100% synthetic? no..thats not the case. hc from now and on.maybe they have some different recipe but its hc.no much ester/pao here anymore too.from analysis just some 1-5% ester but all of my friends like motul.actually there arent any real synthetics anymore ,except the us ones,redline,amsoil,torco,bardahl..but there were complains with them.maybe a bit heavy mixure for our engines these pao/ester mix..

so i am liking to motul.
and this is the question.which one for my engine? i want to choose one and for the rest of the engine's life not to change.i have 120.000 km.i have to choose between the x-clean series which is ll04 norm and the x-cess series which is ll01. now luckily my engine takes both.but which is better for my engine considering that our fuel in Europe are with less ethanol and low saps.

First of all my engine doesn't have a leak problem.doesn't burn oil.I change every 6 months maybe thats why.So my first question is..

5-30 or 5-40?

second //

X-clean or x-cess line?

Now if I could easily find the motul bmw specific ll04 5-40 all my problems would have been solved,but its rare and I have to shop online from another country.Best was united kingdom but with Brexit not anymore..

Does ambient temps play a major role to choosing the viscosity? Our temps is above 5 C in winter and above 35 C during summer.sould I consider outside temp or engine temp is all that matters because 5-30s have molecules that strengthen the oil and becomes more viscous and doesn't get much thinner at high temps?
Or go with 5-40 to be safe? motul by the way places as specific for bmws a 5-40 oil.

t.Another criteria for choosing viscosity is the use. I do a lot of start-stop,short distances intown for 70% during the year.I know that more frequent changes is the cure,but does viscosity has to do with the protection of the engine too? Which is better for that use,5-30 or 5-40? a heavy -30 , a light -40 or a normal -40 close to 14 kv?Opinions vary. bearings bmw for my model,from 0-30,0-40,5-30,5-40. although oils tend to be thinner through the years. x clean and x cess gen 2 oils are much thinner than gen 1. it has to do with the new tighter engines.

So to sum up..

81005-30 x clean +


81005-30 x cleanefe

5-40 x clean 8100 line, similar to motul specific ll04 5-40 bmw ,as far as tech sheet concern

or 5-40 x cess 8100 line

oh and there is one mobil

mobil super3000 xe1,5-30








And then it's the fuel.If I choose the latter 5-40 x cess with more saps ..Will these full saps harm my fuel emission system? Which is used to mid-low saps oil and low saps gasoline? Someone ,Gokhan i think from this forum, claimed that a 25% less protection-wear is if go with mid saps.True?

so what flash point and viscosity tell us really?

i mean,comparing data from 3 same weight oils.

castrol 5-30 M

flash point 228
viscosity 173
kv 12

motul 8100 x clean + 5-30

flash point 226
viscosity 167
kv 11,8


motul 8100 x clean efe 5-30

flash point 232
viscosity 169
kv 12,1



mobil super3000 xe1 5-30
flash point 232
kv 12
viscosity ?



i mean , i read all these stuff for about a year and still don't know if an oil with higher viscosity or flash point is better from another or is just the recipe of the base oil which makes oil better,which we will never learn from msds.



Which motul one to select? or stay with castrol edge M ? i am between these 2 brands. Please tell me your opinion.

p.s i read that if i change brand oil and/or viscosity i have to make an engine flush but not with specific chemicals ,but using the next oil..for example.if i run castrol 5-30 and want to go to motul 5-30 or 5-40 i have to make an engine flush like this..

first i empty the old oil..castrol 5-30..then i put back the empty tap /screw and fill about half of the new oil that i will use,meaning motul 5-30 and start the engine running for 10 minutes.then stop the engine and empty the new oil again.engine is empty and ready to fill with the new oil motul 5-30..

we do that because we want to fully empty the engine from the additives and chemical synthesis of the old oil..if the old oil is not flushed this way then the additives and chemicals from the old and new will struggle with each-other which one to remain and there will be a mixture of oils and might for the worse for the engine protection and wear until one of them wins.so its better to fully clean the engine from old molcules . what is your opinion,is it a myth? if so then why all the experts claim that you need 2-3 changes for the new oil to get the real benefits for the engine?

sorry for my first long post and thank you for your answers..
I will concur that some of your concerns are a bit over-blown in nature. Minute differences in stated specs do not make for much real differences in real worl oil/engine performance.

On viscosity, use the lightest oil you can get away with. In the pre-syn days, a __-40 oil could offer better real protection, but with modern syn oils, that is not the case any more. Consider, too, that all multi-grade oils used to be 10W-30 by default. 10W-40 was the next step up for higher-performance engines. But now we have 5W-30 and 5W-40 syn oils. In some cases, a 5W-40 oil might reduce oil consumption a bit on a worn engine, but only if the clearances have increased enough where the thinner oil will "get through" and the thicker one might not.

As to the various brands and such you mentioned, as long as they meet the Approvals of the OEM, that's really all of the justification you need in your choice. If they did NOT get the Approvals, then be concerned. Consider, too, how available each of the oils might be and at what cost, everything else being equal.

Why the "lightest oil"? If I can tell the difference between a 20W-50 and a 30weight oil in a 5.7L Chevy engine (off-idle throttle response, etc.) then I highly suspect the additional power the oil pump will absorb with a 5W-40 vs. a 5W-30 oil could well be noticeable in your much smaller engine. Just my own observation.

As for the "flush", the only "flush" I might recommend is that when you change the oil, after it has drained to the point that just "drops" come of of the drain plug hole, then pour one quart of oil into the motor and let that drain through, which should also flush out any residual old oil in the bottom of the oil pan. When that comes out clear, then put the drain plug back in and re-fill the crankcase. You will NOT get all of the old oil and additives out by doing what you mention as "a flush". There used to be a US Military Spec that all oils on the market had to be compatible with each other, which protects fleet users who buy oil by price and availability rather than brand preference. IIRC. In that orientation, no "flushes as you described" are needed.

My brand preference? Castrol that meets all of the BMW Approvals in 5W-30. But I have no issues with Motul, by the way. When I openned a bottle of Motul a few years ago, I smelled esters in the formulation (that sweet banana-ie smell I remembered from high school chemistry classes). Esters, as i understand it, emulsify sludge deposits for removal, IF they are present. Be that as it may.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 

alex1212

Thread starter
Joined
Aug 6, 2021
Messages
60
Location
Ellada,EU
I will concur that some of your concerns are a bit over-blown in nature. Minute differences in stated specs do not make for much real differences in real worl oil/engine performance.

On viscosity, use the lightest oil you can get away with. In the pre-syn days, a __-40 oil could offer better real protection, but with modern syn oils, that is not the case any more. Consider, too, that all multi-grade oils used to be 10W-30 by default. 10W-40 was the next step up for higher-performance engines. But now we have 5W-30 and 5W-40 syn oils. In some cases, a 5W-40 oil might reduce oil consumption a bit on a worn engine, but only if the clearances have increased enough where the thinner oil will "get through" and the thicker one might not.
true ,i hear that a lot.
As to the various brands and such you mentioned, as long as they meet the Approvals of the OEM, that's really all of the justification you need in your choice. If they did NOT get the Approvals, then be concerned. Consider, too, how available each of the oils might be and at what cost, everything else being equal.

Why the "lightest oil"? If I can tell the difference between a 20W-50 and a 30weight oil in a 5.7L Chevy engine (off-idle throttle response, etc.) then I highly suspect the additional power the oil pump will absorb with a 5W-40 vs. a 5W-30 oil could well be noticeable in your much smaller engine. Just my own observation.
i doubt that ..a lot of people i know ,including my mechanic, didn't notice a bit.maybe that's why my manual approves 5-40
As for the "flush", the only "flush" I might recommend is that when you change the oil, after it has drained to the point that just "drops" come of of the drain plug hole, then pour one quart of oil into the motor and let that drain through, which should also flush out any residual old oil in the bottom of the oil pan. When that comes out clear, then put the drain plug back in and re-fill the crankcase. You will NOT get all of the old oil and additives out by doing what you mention as "a flush". There used to be a US Military Spec that all oils on the market had to be compatible with each other, which protects fleet users who buy oil by price and availability rather than brand preference. IIRC. In that orientation, no "flushes as you described" are needed.
Actually this is the method that my dad used ,he was a professional driver ..its funny that you mentioned it ,i wanted to ask that but i though it was an outdated ,old-fashioned method..thanks for posted it,i will do that then..

as for motul..how many years ago did you smelled that bottle and which oil-viscosity was it? because before 2014 motul used to have really synthetics with strong ester content in them..then they re-formulated all the bottles to cheaper synthetics..there is a 1-3% of esters in the 8100 bottles as they claim with better polymers in their base oils..i don't know if it is true.

i am very happy with castrol 5-30 M..and for me who i change oil every 6 months and about 8.000 km its good and at a normal price..perhaps not enough polymers or esters or perhaps in motul you pay more for marketing with the almost the same content..and the bad with 5-30 M is i can't find the particular M everywhere though ..only a few shops..i don't know why castrol announced 5-30 and 5-40 M but not many places sell that 2 products.. and but always look for better options because i do a lot of start-stops..i know more frequent changes is the key ,but if change it sooner ,at 5000 km lets say, will my engine really benefits for 3000km less?
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top