If it also shows signs of over pressure on the inside, then I'd be questioning the oil pump pressure regulator. If it's just the seam and the guts of the filter doesn't show any signs of damage (no signs of the media crushed down and/or the center tube deformed inward to any degree), then it was probably just a bad base seam. Also, if it's counterfeit filter, a look at the guts will probably show if that's true also.
Motorcraft Oil Filter Catastrophic Seam Failure
- Thread starter MaximumMini
- Start date
Well, if you try to warranty the filter with Motorcraft, maybe leave out the part where you worked on the pressure relief valve and spring.
Cut it open and share the pics with us. That filter looks like a victim of an oil pump issue.
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Do you mean Oil Pressure Relief Valve Issue?
It seems obvious the pump is working well.
I don't have the tool to cut it open and the seam is still holding on one side. I have to find a way to cut it open without causing more damage.
Yes, please cut it open and show the insides.
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It looks to me like the entire can was overpressured. The top area of the can looks swollen to me also.
The engine oil pressure relief valve moved normally when installed. Anything's possible but in this case I can't imagine how the engine oil pressure relief valve could have caused this since it was new and recently checked. All it has to do is move a little up and down. It makes much more sense that something in the filter caused this.
from Google....
Stuck Closed:
If the bypass valve malfunctions and gets stuck in the closed position, it cannot relieve the pressure buildup as the filter becomes clogged. This can cause the filter to rupture or deform, potentially releasing debris into the engine.
The thing is....the filter should not have been clogged.
Best way to cut the oil filter open without doing further damage?
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Four pages in and we still have not seen pics of the internals of the original suspect filter.
FWIW, the below link is to counterfeit FL-910S I bought.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/counterfeit-motorcraft-fl-910s.387046/
FWIW, the below link is to counterfeit FL-910S I bought.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/counterfeit-motorcraft-fl-910s.387046/
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Would you like to tell me how to cut it open without doing further damage?
I've asked numerous times and no reply yet. Do I need to purchase a tool to do this?
I have never cut an oil filter open.
I do not want to introduce damage that was not caused by the over pressure event itself.
Sorry, from the pics it looked like it was about to peel off.
Can pick up a cutter from Amazon at the link below.
https://www.amazon.com/MOCW-Filter-Cutter-Aluminum-Universal/dp/B0B36DX2P1
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How much metal is still connected? From the picture not much. Looks like you can open it by hand.
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I gave that a try but it has enough metal still connected to make it likely to do damage to the insides if I force it.
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Ordered
I have an aftermarket HV oil pump on my 5.4 and I run 820S filters on it. I always have 50+PSI of oil pressure and on cold starts it is 90PSI. I don't beat on it until it is fully warmed up but that looks like a severe over pressurization to me...but I would have thought it would blow out the rubber gasket before the outer shell let go.
The can definitely failed from pressure it couldn't take. If it's a real Motorcraft then I'd suspect the pump relief failed and over pressurized the system. If it's a fake, it's possible that the can was so flimsy that the maximum normal oil pressure caused it to fail. The filter needs to be verified if it's a real Motorcraft or not.
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That's what I was thinking. I only hand tighten oil filters, but they say I'm a bit strong so maybe I hand tighten them a bit much?
I'm thinking I would MUCH prefer that rubber gasket to blow out so maybe I'll back off on the tightening a bit?
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Agreed. I will post internal photos as soon as I receive the tool to open it. I "could" use tin snips but I'll just wait on the tool I ordered. Should only be a day or two. I'm anxious to see the insides as well.
If it turns out that the oil pressure relief valve on the motor caused this, then I'll drop the oil pan, remove the relief valve and spring, examine the bore with a borescope, examine the piston and spring under magnification and probably polish the relief valve passage.
I'm still VERY doubtful the motors oil pressure relief valve caused this. I've never heard of this occurring on these Dodge/Chrysler 3.3 and 3.8L motors. I have three vehicles with these motors and have changed the relief piston and spring on all of them at one time or another.
About 300,000 miles under my belt driving the 3.
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A regular filter cutter tool will probably not work based on the shape the can is in. It might work on the base end if the dome end flutes don't impeded the cutting wheel. Tin snips would probably work better on the split end.
That is simply unacceptable. I don't care if something failed inside the filter or not. It should be manufactured to accept all situations that may arise. Not just burst open and bleed out. Be it a knock off or not, there has to be a quality minimum to meet., or it should not be sold. You really can't trust anything anymore. It's sad. Could have cost you an engine. There needs to be more oversight into the junk coming into this country.
