My thoughts exactlyManufactures are going with lighter chains for fuel economy. Isn't the newer GF6 oil meant to address timing chain wear?
Full syn gf-6 oil
My thoughts exactlyManufactures are going with lighter chains for fuel economy. Isn't the newer GF6 oil meant to address timing chain wear?
I didn't say it in my initial post, and haven't used it for awhile, but I have used 0W-40 in the past. No complaints, but it doesn't go on sale as often here.5w40 year round
Good to hear - the GM 3.6 does have a reputation for timing-chain problems.I can agree with that, I have a longtime customer with a 2007 Cadillac SRX with a early chain eating 3.6L.....Just about 300,000 on the original Timing Components & he is excessive borderline obsessive with oil changes.
I should know this, but what specifically is a high VI oil?You could run 0w-30 or 0w-40 year round, honestly. Viscosity spread isn't the problem it used to be especially if you use a high VI oil.
It sure helps!At -40 in winter a synthetic zero bottom number is a must.
I never exceed 8K km (5000 miles). Perhaps I should shorten that a bit.Best thing is fresh oil, regardless of weight.
What's his typical OCI?I can agree with that, I have a longtime customer with a 2007 Cadillac SRX with a early chain eating 3.6L.....Just about 300,000 on the original Timing Components & he is excessive borderline obsessive with oil changes.
It's rare to see deals like that at Canadian Walmarts.Check walmart 5w 40 clearance
I'm wondering whether it makes sense to move to more frequent oil changes - 5000 km w/ SuperTech would cost about the same as 8000 km with Mobil 1 (given that Mobil 1 goes on sale regularly).Best thing is fresh oil, regardless of weight.
It's a bit too early in the morning for VI discussion for me, especially because it'll derail into the viscosity index of finished oils vs base oils, etc. Probably shouldn't have brought it up.I should know this, but what specifically is a high VI oil?
My 2L Gen Coupe turbo had the chain replaced at 100k. I used M1 0w40 for most of those miles changed at 5k miles. Oil dilution is an issue and they also upgraded the chain by shifting the stack order on the chain.
Manufactures are going with lighter chains for fuel economy. Isn't the newer GF6 oil meant to address timing chain wear?
Yes, a block heater is a must!It's a bit too early in the morning for VI discussion for me, especially because it'll derail into the viscosity index of finished oils vs base oils, etc. Probably shouldn't have brought it up.
I mean the real point of this thread is what you're doing is fine (0w/5w-xx in the winter, 5w/10w-xx in the summer, both with reasonable OCIs). You're controlling the things you can control for as best as you reasonably can. All I'd do differently is probably use either block or oil pan heaters if I lived somewhere that got down to -40F.
I agree as well. Everyone I know who seems to have cars that last literally forever are hard core 3K oil changers.
probably one of the worst choices to make for winter driving in -40 weather.15w40 year round. The most dependable oil blend ever made.
Add some moly in it if you want.