Motor oil choices for optimum timing chain life

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I have the same vehicle and am curious what symptoms you saw leading up to having to replace the chain? 40 weight oil and 5k change intervals with a high quality oil would seem to be the perfect combo for this engine. Very surprised that even most timing belts would've outlasted this chain.
I was aware of the issue from the forums and took the valve cover off. Hyundai changed the chain in 2013 I think it was.

This was 3 years before I changed it. By the time I did the tensioner was out 4 clicks with 3 left. There is someone on the forum now getting an intake cam code and i bet that is their problem as that is the cam that will skip. The new chain can directly replace the old. Tensioner and guides were all OK as was the oil pump chain which I changed all anyway.

QG0P0EK.jpg
 
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I presume that the oil dilution would effectively reduce the 40 to something much thinner. I wonder if 3K OCIs would have helped?
Hyundai originally speced 5w20 and that's what came in it. They changed that in a TSB the next year to 5w30 and higher depending on ambient temps. Up to a 60w in Saudi Arabia I hear.

They also beefed up the timing chain as they were using an off the shelf parts from another engine they had, Sonata 2.4L. This is also the shared Mitsubishi/Chrysler/Hyundai engine design and can use the Mitsubishi parts.

I ran 5w30 for the first 20k miles or so and went with the 0w40 because of the dilution. Just went back to the 5w30 because the 0w40 doesn't get hot enough to suit me at staying below 185F for the most part.
 

wtd

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My fiancé's son's 2014 F150 with the 5.0 made it to 190,000 miles using 5W-20 Motorcraft blend using 9-10K mile oil changes before needing timing components. He drives mostly long distances and uses the OLM.
 

Number_35

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My fiancé's son's 2014 F150 with the 5.0 made it to 190,000 miles using 5W-20 Motorcraft blend using 9-10K mile oil changes before needing timing components. He drives mostly long distances and uses the OLM.
I should know this, but is this a different engine than Ford's old small-block 302/5.0? If so, is it an OHC engine? (I've never owned a Ford, and haven't done a lot of work on them.)
 

wtd

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I should know this, but is this a different engine than Ford's old small-block 302/5.0? If so, is it an OHC engine? (I've never owned a Ford, and haven't done a lot of work on them.)
Yes, this is a different engine than the old 302's. This one has duel OHC's.
 

Number_35

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Yes, this is a different engine than the old 302's. This one has duel OHC's.
Thanks, I'll check it out - as I recall, the old pushrod one was way oversquare, with a bore of 4.00" and a stroke of 3.00". Curious as to what the dimensions on the new one are.
 
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Yes, I thought there was something I had seen here on BITOG about that. But can anyone explain why that would be?
well, a thinner oil overall can be compromised in film strength from break down and fuel dilution.

a thicker oil overall such as a 15w40 is quite nice , good tbn, good tolerance to fuel dilution, and alot more of additives.
 

Number_35

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Thanks, I'll check it out - as I recall, the old pushrod one was way oversquare, with a bore of 4.00" and a stroke of 3.00". Curious as to what the dimensions on the new one are.
Wiki to the rescue - the new Ford 5.0 is part of the Modular family, like the 4.6. Unlike the original, it's almost "square" (i.e. bore and stroke are nearly equal). And as @wtd said, it's DOHC.
 
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