Motor oil choices for optimum timing chain life

JRed

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You could run 0w-30 or 0w-40 year round, honestly. Viscosity spread isn't the problem it used to be especially if you use a high VI oil.
 

Number_35

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I can agree with that, I have a longtime customer with a 2007 Cadillac SRX with a early chain eating 3.6L.....Just about 300,000 on the original Timing Components & he is excessive borderline obsessive with oil changes.
Good to hear - the GM 3.6 does have a reputation for timing-chain problems.
 
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Check walmart 5w 40 clearance
 

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Number_35

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I can agree with that, I have a longtime customer with a 2007 Cadillac SRX with a early chain eating 3.6L.....Just about 300,000 on the original Timing Components & he is excessive borderline obsessive with oil changes.
What's his typical OCI?

What's your experience with the Ford/Mazda 2.3/2.5 Duratech w.r.t. timing chains?
 

JRed

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I should know this, but what specifically is a high VI oil?
It's a bit too early in the morning for VI discussion for me, especially because it'll derail into the viscosity index of finished oils vs base oils, etc. Probably shouldn't have brought it up. :)

I mean the real point of this thread is what you're doing is fine (0w/5w-xx in the winter, 5w/10w-xx in the summer, both with reasonable OCIs). You're controlling the things you can control for as best as you reasonably can. All I'd do differently is probably use either block or oil pan heaters if I lived somewhere that got down to -40F.
 

UncleDave

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Assuming you don't have a mettalurgy issue that no amount of oil changes can help with, keeping fresh oil in the sump is your best defense.

After that keeping the oil you are running as clean as possible will help - keep that chain as free of particles as you can.

I load my timing chain cars up with magnets wherever I can put them, drain plugs, and on the filter as the next best thing you can do is keep the oil as clean as is is feasible with better aftermarket filters and mags.
 
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My 2L Gen Coupe turbo had the chain replaced at 100k. I used M1 0w40 for most of those miles changed at 5k miles. Oil dilution is an issue and they also upgraded the chain by shifting the stack order on the chain.

Manufactures are going with lighter chains for fuel economy. Isn't the newer GF6 oil meant to address timing chain wear?

I have the same vehicle and am curious what symptoms you saw leading up to having to replace the chain? 40 weight oil and 5k change intervals with a high quality oil would seem to be the perfect combo for this engine. Very surprised that even most timing belts would've outlasted this chain.
 
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I would question the quality of the chain and associated parts . The only engine failure I have had was with running Amsoil. The MFG, left out the cam anti walk bearing/ bushing on the 3.8, GM engine. I doubt oil has much to do with the problem. Then I probably am wrong.
 

Number_35

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It's a bit too early in the morning for VI discussion for me, especially because it'll derail into the viscosity index of finished oils vs base oils, etc. Probably shouldn't have brought it up. :)

I mean the real point of this thread is what you're doing is fine (0w/5w-xx in the winter, 5w/10w-xx in the summer, both with reasonable OCIs). You're controlling the things you can control for as best as you reasonably can. All I'd do differently is probably use either block or oil pan heaters if I lived somewhere that got down to -40F.
Yes, a block heater is a must!

There are those here who are proud of how their car will start at -30 "without being plugged in". Sure, you can do it, but at what cost in engine life? Plus a preheated engine uses a lot less fuel.
 
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I agree as well. Everyone I know who seems to have cars that last literally forever are hard core 3K oil changers.

Anyone who obsessively changes oil every 3k is most likely to be diligent with ALL the vehicle maintenance, I don't know that you can attribute much beyond engine longevity to OCI's.

Even then I'm not convinced an engine that the manufacturer specs for 10k OCI's will last any longer on 5k changes if the correct oil is used. Manufacturers test I am hard pressed to believe they would spec inappropriate intervals.

Then again they often spec lighter "adequate" oils when a thicker one would protect better. :unsure:
 
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I am seriously curious, I can't count how many times on VW forums guys have posted they do 5k changes to protect the chains. I've seen it here many times as well.

I honestly want to know, is there any actual testing to back that up? All I've ever seen is anecdotes. It seems to me to mostly come from guys who are inherently trustful of 10k OCI's who have never done or don't even know what a UOA is.
 
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