quote:
Wouldn't it be better to SLIGHTLY enlarge the orifice and see if the bypass filter heats up?
If not, then keep enlarging it INCREMENTALLY until it does?
I'm thinking that if you remove the orifice that there might be TOO MUCH flow--Ralph says the reason they have an orifice in bypass filters is to keep the flow low---I'm assuming 2 quarts/min is around the maximum that should occur--since this is what a motor guard m30 has at 50 psi, 160F with 30wt oil.
But that's in a "back to the pan" installation. You're not doing that. You aren't truly "bypassing" the oil circuit. You're giving it a parallel pathway to the sender point. Your flow is going into a pressurized environment ..not your valve cover. The ff is going to have the lion's share of the flow ..and that flow will naturally divide based on the resistance it 'sees' from the filters. Both filters will see the same pressure.
Both filters, when plumbed your way, will see the exact same pressure drop between the oil pump and the sender unit (your point of reference) ..only the flow will be different between them.
Look at it this way. Suppose you didn't use a TP or PT element in the MG canister ..and used 1/2" (or 4 FOOT diameter)lines ..and didn't reduce them until it got to the sending unit ...what's the WORST thing that can happen in terms of flow? You bypassed the ff oil filter? Now just throw a roll of TP in and what do you have?? ...the oil pump seeing two paths for the flow to the sender ..one high resistance ..one low resistance. The flow naturally divides between them. Suppose instead of installing a MG ..you installed a remote ff filter mount instead?? The oil flow would then have two ff filters for acess to the point of the sender ...the only difference in the flow rate ..would be the resistance presented by the 1/8" sender fitting.
Do you see what I mean?? I merely suggested trying it without modifying the thing to see if it provides acceptable flow for your needs ...but I see no need for the orifice. If anything ..I think you'll need to use the added resistance of the Permacool poppet bypass valve to create enough pressure differentail to induce the require, acceptable, flow.
Wait a minute
..are you referring to the BYPASS VALVE on the PERMACOOL sandwich adaper????
YES!!! Definitely incrementally open that up. I would just remove it..period. You may have to open it up even MORE. You would want to open a little as possible until your sender pressure is restored to "before installation" pressure level.
I was thinking (yeah, right) ..that many bypass filters (Frantz for one and I assumed MG) has a 1/16 (or something) restrictor orifice in the filter housing. This would not be necessary for your installation.