More Junk Parts

"I just got an alternator from Rock, nothing available locally only Cardone and BBB and a few used ones in poor condition so this one is a WAI global new Chicom."
Plus the questions of fit! outrageous.

There are no rebuilder shops near anyone here? Thank Heavens for "mine".
 
Unfortunately OEM's are cutting corners, too. I've received a Motorcraft blue box driveshaft: MIC. AC Delco oil cooler lines: MIC. Motorcraft belt tensioners that came on the vehicle with a metal pulley are now sold with plastic pulleys

I'm honestly not sure what the answer is beyond caveat emptor
 
Motorcraft belt tensioners that came on the vehicle with a metal pulley are now sold with plastic pulleys

I'm honestly not sure what the answer is beyond caveat emptor
I won't buy anything with a plastic pulley without first verifying that a metal one is not available. Also, if you still have the metal pulley, consider replacing the bearings on it and reusing the metal pulley part.
 
Eric at SMA just posted a video about this problem. You indie mechs will probably have to start telling people you have to charge labor for a redo if they insist on aftermarket parts that fail. You can't do the job twice and get paid once too many times.


I called it in the comment section when the first video went up

I've never had an aftermarket blower motor last a week
 
Alternators are often easily repaired.
Sure if you can get parts (bearings are no problem) and the rotor or stator isn't open/shorted. The one I have had bad bearings so the rotor hit the stator, it is hosed. The used one I have is a real rat, lots of corrosion.
 
I called it in the comment section when the first video went up

I've never had an aftermarket blower motor last a week
That's good to know. I've installed several aftermarket figuring -- like Eric said in the video -- how difficult can it be to build an acceptable blower motor? Apparently, fairly difficult.

I haven't had any comebacks but I'm going to start trying to source OEM or at least better quality parts.
 
I think the tough part is if you aren’t really up on some of these things like fuel trims or don’t really know anything about vehicles but maybe can change a part. How are they supposed to know the part they just installed is faulty. Now it gets brought to a shop and maybe the owner tells the shop such and such part is new or the minimum wage tech sees the new part and starts looking elsewhere for the problem assuming because the part is new it’s fine. Now this cheap part has cost the owner a lot of time and money and cost the shop time for diagnosis. This can make people shy away from the joy of car ownership and working on and modifying your own cars.
You are spot on! For that reason unless you can diagnose a replacement part go with OE, chances are very good it will be a good one.
It was not all that long ago that if you went with a good brand name product you were reasonably safe but those days are gone. An NGK part for example that was made in Japan until mid 2021 is now made in China or Korea, it happened so quick their reps didn't even have that change on their company info sheets. It may be the same quality or it may not.

Delphi used to buy their coils and MAF sensors from the OE manufacturer (Mitsubishi and Denso) in Japan and they had a good reputation, now thay are made by whoflugdung in China and reboxed, absolute crap. You have a better chance IMO with Euro parts, many times you can get parts like this VW fuel pump if you know what you are looking for, one example.

Original..

_MG_0672.JPG


Now a German made VDO made for these VW cars sold in Europe, notice the removal of company. OE fit and function and longevity, price $150 vs over $300..

_MG_0675.JPG


_MG_0674.JPG
 
This Dorman part is better than the OEM. Metal versus Plastic:



Only aftermarket parts I've seen that are better are Dorman metal parts replacing OE. Otherwise, I've had very poor fit, form, and function from other non-OE or non-OEM parts
 
After market oil pressure sender on my 2.9L Ford Ranger had original sender spring a huge leak and pumped its oil out. Towed home and got a new one from the O'R. Store brand. Lasted about 2 months and same thing. Bought a new Standard brand sender. Now. oil pressure gauge is all over the place. Bought one from Advance and now it works. Took Standard back and got refund. Its like you can't trust any after market stuff anymore.
 
Sure if you can get parts (bearings are no problem) and the rotor or stator isn't open/shorted. The one I have had bad bearings so the rotor hit the stator, it is hosed. The used one I have is a real rat, lots of corrosion.
Find a starter shop even if it’s a journey. Call and tell them what you have and see what they can do for you . That’s nuts those prices. I have gotten all my starters and alternators rebuilt locally since the 80s by the same guy. I’ve never paid over $60 and unlike the big commercial plants if the bearings are even slightly iffy new ones go in. Chances are they will have a huge pile of cast off bins for salvage parts like castings ect…
 
  • Like
Reactions: D60
It's arguably more work than it's worth and more time than most have but if you're wanting a potential donor alternator AWD (Amazon Warehouse Deals) can be a source.

I ordered an AWD alt for a '98 Ram...it was likely fine until FedEx snapped a mounting ear on the case. Now, it was already inexpensive because it was Warehouse Deals but I told Amazon of the problem, they refunded and said keep it. I swapped the case from my old alt with the guts of the new....essentially free alternator. It's working at the moment so I can't complain
 
The biggest pain in my backside is when parts are made obsolete by the manufacturer. Mitsubishi was particularly good at supplying OE parts for older cars, right down to the smallest nut and bolt, but since this whole Renault-Nissan fiasco, that went down the drain and I'm still trying to find a heater core. Back in the day, Hyundai built their own versions of Mitsubishi vehicles under license, and they have actually been a good source for a lot of OE stuff, including alternators. Ford, as we all know, could care less about you and your Ford product once it hits 10 years old, and GM is pretty much getting there too.

I tend to exclusively stick to certain brands, which has not failed me so far, but that's not to say it's a safe bet. For electrical parts, I have had extremely good luck with a lot of WVE/NTK parts who also supply a lot of OE parts.

For suspension parts, ZF Friedrichshafen have been decent with brands like Lemförder and TRW; I've gotten parts mostly made in Germany, South Korea and Turkey for the most part and they have been decent. Shocks, it's Bilstein or Koni.

Brakes, I stick with EBC and gaskets I tend to stick with Victor Reinz/Mahle. Their air filters tend to be made in places like Bulgaria, and sometimes China, but they are OE quality, which is why I have stuck with them.

For stuff like water pumps, I try and stick with NPW or Aisin, depending on application, otherwise it's OEM where available and for radiators, Nissens if usually my go to.
 
I'll re-do labor for prts the customer brings in as many times as they do. They think thay save money on prts. Well, they sure dont on labor.
Its gotton so bad I only buy the better & best the big box stores sell. I tell my good customers this when dx an issue. My tel call to them is a labor quote & 1 of two price quotes: dealer or best part in NAPA, AZ, AAP, etc. No more low ball parts. Mufflers that last 6 mo, brake parts 2, 3K mi and gone, new SBL snapped, etc. Nope - I dont wanna loose those good customers, otherwise i hafta wrk on rusty crap (15 + y/o vehicles) all the time.
 
Back
Top