Mobil1 alternative

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You can change the cartridge filter setup to a spin-on filter - a really simple procedure.
The spin-on design provides better and cheaper choices.
Here is how it's done.
In regards of oil: I suggest you try German Castrol 0w-30 and or/and Esso XD-3 0w-30 since you're in Canada.
Redline, on the other hand, will be wasteful and super expensive in a street driven car.

[ February 25, 2006, 06:07 AM: Message edited by: vad ]
 
ZimmerDN,
Royal Purple makes a 5W-20. I don't know anything about it, but you might look into it. AFAIK, price point should be similar to Mobil 1.

Regarding filter, you can think of a spin-on filter as having a cartridge inside of it. There is nothing wrong with cartridge filters. They generate less waste at change time.
 
Put more clearly, here is a test to illustrate:
Which oil is thinner at 0 degF:
M1 0w-40
GC 0w-30
M1 5w-30 ????

The answer is: M1 5w-30. Surprised? Did you think the "0w" rating might dominate at 0 degF? I used to think that. Therefore, for better cold starts at 0 degF and warmer, go with M1 5w-30 or M1 0w-30. A synthetic 0w-20 or 5w-20 is really best at 0 degF, however, except for Redline 5w-20 which was pretty thick at 0 degF.
 
For all petrol M6 engines Mazda Europe recommends to use mainly Mazda Dexelia Ultra 5W-30 (thought Mazda Dexelia 5W-40 is also possible). According to Mazda and ELF itself the oils are formulated by TotalFinaElf. From my sides, I would notice only that Mazda Dexelia Ultra 5W-30 and ELF Evolution SRX 5W-30 are not fully the same, at least in available now specs:

MAZDA DEXELIA ULTRA 5W-30
API: SJ/CF, ACEA A1/B1, Mazda

ELF EVOLUTION SXR 5W30
API: SL/CF, ACEA A5/B5, Renault, GM LL-A025

Specific gravity at 15 C, kg/dm3 .............. 0,856 ... 0,855
Dinamic viscosity –30 C mPa.s(cP) ............ 4500 .... 5180
Kinematic viscosity at 100 C mm2/s(cSt)...... 9,4 ..... 9,84
Viscosity index ........................................ 163 ..... 163
Flash Point (open cup), C .......................... 220 ..... 236
Pour Point, C ......................................... - 39 ..... -45
TBN .................................................... 11,8 ..... 10,9

Another possibility is that Mazda Dexelia Ultra in ACEA A5/B5 is not yet arrived to our area (but already indicated in new service books).
 
Primus, I always like hearing from you on these xw-20 threads. Just goes to show that a *w-30 is just fine in one of these "*w-20 required" engines in North America.
Just curious, what OCI are you planning? The Motorcraft (5w-20 or 5w-30 blend) are 2 very good choices and cheap as others have said for a 5-6000 mile OCI.
I also agree with the new Penzoil Platinum being an up and coming oil, although no UOA's on 5w-20 that I could find.
 
Ahhh, I rethought my remark. Here is my simplest thought on the 0W20 & 5W20 vs 30weight controversy.

5W20 is SPECIFIED but not MECHANICALLY/PHYSICALLY?CHEMICALLY ESSENTIAL.

In another words I will eat crow if you can prove to me running M1 0W40, GC 0W30, M1 5W30 etc caused an Chrysler/Ford/Honda engine damage. [All things being equal ie maintanence,mechanical conditions, etc]

Also another thought, do you think oil technology would allow a 0W0 or 0W10 weight for a daily driver?
 
outrun & speedtc, The lower the viscosity, the less friction (due to viscosity) internally, and the more power & gas mileage you get. I'd bet in 20 years "0w-10" will be the weight of choice.
 
That was a very amusing tutorial on replacing the Mazda cartridge filter. Guy has a good sense of humor ...
 
I'm using the SL 0w-20 M1 now. Great oil as the UOA's on here show. You can't go wrong with any of the newer 5w-20's. Havoline in particular seems to stand out among the dino 20wts. I'm going to run RL 5w-20 in my car next.

*I'd stick with a 20wt being in Canada and I'd also stick with it bc your car will run better on it IMO. My car became sluggish with German Castrol.
 
Agreed. I'd stick with a synthetic 0w-20 in Canada, like the new M1 0w-20 or Pennz Plat 0w-20. They hang in there better throughout the cold temperature range than anything else. When you see a "30" top number, know that it will stay thicker throughout the temperature range of 0 degF all the way up to water freezing point. The "0w" often doesn't buy you anything in the temperature range from 0 degF to 32 degF. The top number (20 or 30) dominates in those frequently encountered ranges.
 
Use Castrol Syntec 5w20, $20 for a 5quart jug at Wally World. Or you can use Motorcraft 5w20 semi-syn, $10 for a 5 quart jug at Wally World. Change your oil and filter every 5k and your Mazda will run forever.

Too bad you didn't live in AZ. The Mazda dealer out here sells all of their brand new Mazdas with free lifetime oil changes for as long as you own it. You only have to cover EPA fees and taxes.
 
quote:

In another words I will eat crow if you can prove to me running M1 0W40, GC 0W30, M1 5W30 etc caused an Chrysler/Ford/Honda engine damage.

They may not cause damage, but they certainly won't provide you with any benefit either. You'll just use more fuel churning thick oil needlessly.
 
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