Mobil/Motul/Redline?

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Mobil 1 0W40, Motul 8100 0W40, Redline 5W40?

Scenaro: 1991 Rover 3.9 V8, 78k miles, poor oil history (very light sludge), owned since 70k miles, driven on the Gulf of Mexico (hot). Current oil: Mobil 1 0W40 - OCI 5k miles (K&N 3001 filter) - I always liked the idea of instant flow on a cold-start. It's in my Range Rover Classic. Good engine, and I want to keep it that way.

I've been keeping an eye on oil tech since the first Mobil Synthetic - please, no "My Honda Civic runs sweeeeet on....". I'm considering a change of oil... What's the best of the above mentioned oils? Bare in mind that although this is a low compression, low performance (flat torque curve) engine, I've had four of them and they run high cylinder head/exhaust manifold temps and are prone to wrecking oil. This will be no exception as it has to idle off-road in 100F+ ambients.
 
I'd be picking Redline if cost was no object. But why the sounds of it, a quality dino changed would fit the bill too. Also perhaps a PureOne filter might be better if you expect a lot of dust.
 
If its hot, and you have an engine with high cylinder head temps....run Redline and change every 8000 miles.

You could run Redline 5W-30, Redline 5W-40, or Redline 10W-40.

If it was my car, I'd use Redline 10W-40 in high temps.

Redline 10W-40 will pump just fime at your ambient temps, take the heat as well as any oil made due to the Polyol Ester basestock, and will have no Viscosity Index Improvers.

Mobil 1 0W-40 is a good oil for newer Mercedes and BMW's that spec it, but it has a reputation for shearing and probably has much lower additive levels to meet new specs.

Redline will have a much better basestock and the additive package will probably be much better for a 1991 engien.
 
The redline will also clean up that motor as well. If money is no object then redline is the way to go. RL will never break down in that vehicle.
 
How long do you plan on keeping the car? I would also vote for Redline 5w20,30 or 40, but for 5000 miles any oil would work. You can also do a flush and condition the seals and go from there. Get UOA's done with different oils and see what the sweet spot is for your engine.
 
Thanks for your comments. Regarding RL 5W40, someone suggested that it does not have VIIs, which would be very appealing. Can the same be said for RL 5W40? Regarding the potential use of dino oils in the Rover V8, that's a big no-no, unless you want to perform a heavy flush every 20k (flushing sucks). They bake dino, I've seen it on every example of that engine.
 
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