I have a 1994 Pontiac Grand Prix with 194,000 miles on it. First 96,000 miles were with Pennzoil 5W-30 Dino (after I bought it at 18,000 miles), 3000 mile OCI. From 96,000 to 186,000 miles it had 3000 mile OCI of Mobil 1 5w-30. Last oil change was at 192,000 miles, I'm out to 6000 mile changes now after learning a bunch here (I've been wasting a lot of oil). Here's the UOA from 192,000 miles. If I look inside the oil fill hole it looks like bare metal. No smoke, doesn't use any oil, and runs great. I'm not convinced this is the best oil I can use so I'm trying GC soon, I have 1 more oil change of M1 on the shelf and then I'll try the GC. Obviously it has done me well but I certainly changed it far too often. I had another engine fail in another car (rod knock, ticking lifter) and got paranoid and switched to M1 and stuck to 3000 mile OCI's for all my cars until I found this site.
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Just started my Toyota 2001 4-cyl Solara on M1 at 70,000 miles. Also started our 2000 Subaru Outback 2.5 on M1 at 68,000 miles. Warm up times on both cars are much quicker than before.
Will be doing a Blackstone oil analysis this winter on the Sube.
GL
Will be doing a Blackstone oil analysis this winter on the Sube.
GL
Standard, I haven't looked since EP came out.
Well, the term "best" is kinda lost on me after hanging here, reading what I've read, especially from those here that ARE the industry, and best is purely subjective anymore, it all seems to boil down to preference. Or brand loyalty, or of course, price. Same with filters, but to a lesser extent I'd suppose. When you get into the SM/GF4 generation of motor oil, it doesn't strike me that it matters anymore, dino OR syn, other than OCI. All one needs to do is compare the flashpoints of Havoline and, say, M1 for instance, compare additive packages, see that 5W20 Havoline is SM/GF4 just like the M1, and it should pretty much end the discussion as to "best", other than price.
When you can buy 3 quarts of Havoline for the price of one quart of M1 or pretty much any synthetic for that matter (and paying two or three times the price of Havoline for ANY Group 3 "syn" strikes me as nutty in my current state of enlightenment), I don't know how it makes sense for anyone that changes oil inside of 5000 miles to justify any synthetic.
I can't anymore..
When you can buy 3 quarts of Havoline for the price of one quart of M1 or pretty much any synthetic for that matter (and paying two or three times the price of Havoline for ANY Group 3 "syn" strikes me as nutty in my current state of enlightenment), I don't know how it makes sense for anyone that changes oil inside of 5000 miles to justify any synthetic.
I can't anymore..
Mobil 1 5W40 in '94 Lexus LS400 with OCI of 1 year/15k miles.
Mobil 1 0W40 in '00 Mercedes E430 with OCI of 1 year/12k miles.
Mobil 1 10W30 in '04 Honda S2000 with OCI of 1 year/6k-8k miles. Will try Mobil 1 0W30 in S2000 for the next oil change.
Mobil 1 0W40 in '00 Mercedes E430 with OCI of 1 year/12k miles.
Mobil 1 10W30 in '04 Honda S2000 with OCI of 1 year/6k-8k miles. Will try Mobil 1 0W30 in S2000 for the next oil change.
I have a 2001 Civic with 247,000 miles on it. Run M1 with M1 filter. Doesn't use a drop of oil between changes. I do all the maintence to a t, and am a pretty easy going driver. Car runs like it is brand new.
Especially ironic, since the thread is basically a setup to serve an anti-Mobil/anti-PAO agenda. But that said, I have used M1 in the past with great results. I kept a 1988 Civic for ten years and logged over 150k miles, almost exclusively on M1. When I traded the car in 98, a mistake I still regret, the engine was tight as a drum. It used no oil at all, made not a trace of smoke ever, and looking down the oil filler revealed the same view of clean, bare, silvery metal as was there when the car was brand new. Pretty clear that this engine could, and probably did, continue for many more years and miles. Over the years, my OCI varied from as short as 3k in my early ignorant years, to as long as 7.5k on one occasion. Wish I'd gotten a UOA or two from it. The product did a fine job for me.quote:
Originally posted by XS650:
Irony alert
I've also had phenomenal UOA from more recent versions of M1 in my dearly departed Camry, and in the Sequoia we still own.
In the coming months, and as I use up my supply of GC, I plan to try comparative runs among such products as GC, PP, M1, and maybe RL just for fun. I might try G-III Syntec, but at this point, I figure if I want to try a good G-III, PP is the choice, being priced better than Syntec. We'll see, maybe I'll be an M1 user once again.
98 Camaro Z-28 with a huge cam/headers/intake etc.
I have 99K right now and haven't had a hint of trouble from the engine. I use 5W-30 M1 and change it every 3 months/3k whichever comes first. I just started using EP, but I don't know if I'll be able to go past 3 months and keep my sanity.
I have 99K right now and haven't had a hint of trouble from the engine. I use 5W-30 M1 and change it every 3 months/3k whichever comes first. I just started using EP, but I don't know if I'll be able to go past 3 months and keep my sanity.
Wow, your valvetrain is still in good shape? I mean at first I thought M1 didn't contain enough ZDDP, then I was told we needed an ACEA A3 rated oil for best performance. And then today I read that spectrographic analysis doesn't reflect true component wear?? Imagine that....stick with M1, it's working well!
All my cars are on a diet of M1
,
including my '88 IROC 5.7.
love the stuff, good oil pressure no noise
internals seem very clean.
including my '88 IROC 5.7.
love the stuff, good oil pressure no noise
internals seem very clean.
Humph! Interesting that the M1 hater who started this thread hasn't surfaced again. Looks like those of us who've used M1 for a long time, even if not current users, are pretty happy with the product, and have been for a very long time. Surprise, surprise. . .
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