Mobil 1 Racing 0w-30 for Acura RSX Type-S?

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Thanks for all the comments so far..Also thanks for being easy on a BITOG newbie.

I can certainly concede that GC 0w-30 would be great for summer use, but I'm curious about a suitable synthetic oil for winter use...I am attracted to something that is a 30 weight. My occupation involves performing lubrication system simulation models, such as variable displacement/variable valve timing systems, and I have seen that those systems are somewhat sensitive to oil weight, and given the iVTEC system on the K20A2, I don't really want to depart from an Xw-30...

So, to reiterate: looking for a decently shear stable oil that I can get off the shelf, preferrably...OCI's are not my primary concern. Engine wear(cold start or otherwise), HP, fuel economy are my primary concerns...Any suggestions?

[ August 30, 2006, 04:47 PM: Message edited by: prodigalson ]
 
I was told that Pennzoil Platinum was a Group-III based product when it first launched. I had called Pennzoil Technical Services in curiosity after Johnny's post. Glad to see that another company representative is giving the same info, though this isn't to doubt the validity of Johnny's info.
 
Also per JohnBrowning; I will consider the M1 Ow-40 suggestion...Especially if it shears to a 30 weight equivalent...Any penalty in going with a M1 0w-40 over M1 0w-30 in terms of fuel economy, frictional losses etc?

Also, pardon if I ask an absurd question, so here I go: Can you mix M1 0w-20 and M1 0w-40 50/50 to get a 0w-30 equivalent? Probably is not that simple, but please chime in and educate me if I'm completely off on this one...
 
PS:

I guess I'd qualify as one of the "cult members," but I think GC will be fine for winter use, even in Michigan. First off, it really is a 0w oil. In addition, look at member/moderator Patman's experience. He uses the stuff in his 'vette in Canada (Mississauga ON, IIRC) in winter, and reports outstanding performance. Have no fear, the Elves are here. . .
cheers.gif
 
I guess GC really is the pet oil around here...I may just go ahead and try the stuff for the winter...I'll wait a bit though to see if I can soak up a little more knowledge here...

P.S. Anyone noticed any negative effects from switching around to different brands of synthetic? I used to work at Federal Mogul in the engine gasket and seal design division, and was told by the test engineers that when you switch from a dino oil to a syn, there is some shrinkage/swelling associated with the changeover due to differences in formulation between dino and syn..In fact, I switched to synthetic in my high mileage Olds Aurora, it did begin to leak after I switched (rear main seal, which had a poor design to begin with on the Northstar engine)...
 
quote:

Originally posted by 427Z06:

quote:

Originally posted by Auto-Union:
A "waste" would be NOT using it, since I have cases and cases of it, or using it in an old lawnmower.

So...because you happen to have bought "cases and cases" everyone else needs to use it too even if there might be better choices? And, any quality synthetic should be able to go 10,000 miles in a K20A3. Even Honda's "low speed torque" engines have mid-6000 rpm redlines, so the K20A3 isn't pushing the envelope by any means.

See what I mean by it being a cult? Some start freaking out if you suggest there might be a better choice.


No, you said it was a "waste". That's a confusing term, to day the least. Will it work in the posters engine, that calls for 30 weight, is the question. That it will, perhaps best and best-for the-buck, so what's the problem with recommending it? 427Z06, you are looking for a problem that is just not there. You've offered a million reasons disputing my post from the GC Forum where I get great mpg, smoothness, power and oci...but why? I put it in my car on a whim after using a few different oils in it and was amazed how nice it ran, no mpg issues either. Now we have a guy with a hi-po version of the engine that calls for a 30 weight, but still you are droning on about cults and reasons NOT to even try GC. I think he should give this TOTALLY appropriate oil a try and then compare to others, mostly because it's easy to get otc and the bottom line is: it works.
 
Heck, he even said he was LOOKING for a 0w-30! Crazy X10. I have used both 0w-30 oils, Mobil and Castrol in my car with a variant of the same engine, but somehow if I recommend one over the other....it's not from experience or knowledge, but a "cultist". That's just borderline trolling.
 
AU, in your case, GC is defying the laws of physics. How can a 12.3 cSt oil improve power/HP over an oil of lesser viscosity, typically 8.6 cSt @ 100C?
 
I think you guys are hilarious...Thanks for the input AU, and the rest of you guys...I bought some GC from AZ this evening...I've only got 7K miles or so on my M1 10w-30, but I plan to swap the GC in next week, while I'm installing my race header (whoo hoo!)...I really wanted a lower cSt, but it won't hurt to give it a try...I would have tried Amsoil or RL, but I cannot, in the end justify paying nearly $9 a quart, plus having to order it...
 
Maybe the DIFFERENCE in engine power required for pumping 12cSt vs 9 or 10 is not sufficient to make a difference in mpg, or more bluntly...less power than you guys think it is.
 
quote:

Originally posted by ekpolk:

quote:

Originally posted by Auto-Union:
The PP is a new POE gas-to-liquid base, technically G-V...

A-U: I agree 100% with the rest of what you posted, but disagree with your statement regarding Penz Plat's genetics. I keep seeing it alleged here on BITOG that PP is a Group-V EOP product. It's not. According to Pennzoil itself, PP is a G-III oil. I hasten to add, that I'm not anti-G-III, and this particular oil's performance indicates that G-IIIs can turn in great performances. Anyway, I just confirmed this with Pennzoil, via email. Their rep also added that the product is presently being further upgraded, so I expect to see even better to come from it in the future.
cheers.gif


According to Johnny (recently retired Pennzoil employee), Pennzoil Platinum is a Group V oil. See this thread:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=014547;p=1#000005

quote:

"Well, on October 31, 2005 it was not a Group III.

As for as I know it's still being made with the EOP base stocks. Since retiring it's like pulling teeth to try and find out information from my old sources. Shell is a very tight group and they don't freely pass out information."

Can you post the e-mail you rec'd from Pennzoil?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Auto-Union:
"GC would be a total waste in a base engine"

Ummm, it lubricates and cools. Keeps my engine from blowing up...not really a waste, eh? I'm currently getting 31-32mpg and it's as smooth as an electric motor. A "waste"?


Your K20A3 engine is the economy engine and specs 5w20. prodigalson's K20A2 is the HiPo 8600RPM redline version and specs Xw30 oil. Yes, GC is a waste in the K20A3.
 
Auto-Union, you have your opinion, I have mine. I tested GC in everything from a TSX 2.4 liter to a 7 liter built LS-x. It's my opinion that GC has advantages in a LS-x engine, but has little in Honda engines. Let's leave it at that.
 
quote:

Originally posted by 427Z06:

quote:

Originally posted by Auto-Union:
"GC would be a total waste in a base engine"

Ummm, it lubricates and cools. Keeps my engine from blowing up...not really a waste, eh? I'm currently getting 31-32mpg and it's as smooth as an electric motor. A "waste"?


Your K20A3 engine is the economy engine and specs 5w20. prodigalson's K20A2 is the HiPo 8600RPM redline version and specs Xw30 oil. Yes, GC is a waste in the K20A3.


The A3 may still benefit from a high quality oil, there are some cases now of the A3 somehow not adequately oiling the exhaust cam, some speculate there may be deposits in some passages hampering flow. This eventually leads to grinding of the exhaust lobes as seen below.

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additional, A3 cars with a hondata reflash ECU have increased redlines and may also benefit from high quality oil.
 
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