Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w-30 vs. PU 5W-30
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Yeah, we would not want to use ANY factual data concerning what is being asked on this subject.
What we need to use is someone who has an obvious bias in his mindset with out CARING on someones engine. As long as HIS bias is told the heck with anything else.
I'll stand by what I've posted since I have quite a bit more knowledge with FACTS on the 1ZZFE engine. Bringing up 1949 Chevys is just silly and off topic. (hint, remember the rules)
Bill
What we need to use is someone who has an obvious bias in his mindset with out CARING on someones engine. As long as HIS bias is told the heck with anything else.
I'll stand by what I've posted since I have quite a bit more knowledge with FACTS on the 1ZZFE engine. Bringing up 1949 Chevys is just silly and off topic. (hint, remember the rules)
Bill
There's a used oil analysis of a 1ZZ-FE only a couple years off from the OPs that is posted in the used oil analysis section. The oil used was Mobil 1 Extended Performance, he had the used oil analysis done a thousand or two miles before the 10k mark, and the oil was trashed with its TBN almost totally depleted.
After about a 3 page discussion in that thread, the general consensus was that 7.5k was a safer OCI and that's what the OP there decided on.
If going with either, I would start at 7.5k (max) and then get a used oil analysis done.
In my own case with this engine, once its looking cleaned up (a lot) I will try taking PP to 5k (but not this OCI) and get an initial used oil analysis done there. I'm already dealing with a sludged engine (in reversal now), so I prefer a baseline used oil analysis that's more conservative.
I'd rather have "wasted" (to some, but not to me) the oil on a shortened OCI for a safe (but still meaningful) used oil analysis baseline than have a used oil analysis come back showing wear metals and depleted TBN after pushing the oil longer than it should have been. The $19 jug of PP is a whole lot cheaper than than the engine its going into. Same for the used oil analysis. Both are peanuts by comparison.
A general rule for OCIs is just that, and like any general rule, there are exceptions. The 1ZZ-FE is such an exception.
-Spyder
After about a 3 page discussion in that thread, the general consensus was that 7.5k was a safer OCI and that's what the OP there decided on.
If going with either, I would start at 7.5k (max) and then get a used oil analysis done.
In my own case with this engine, once its looking cleaned up (a lot) I will try taking PP to 5k (but not this OCI) and get an initial used oil analysis done there. I'm already dealing with a sludged engine (in reversal now), so I prefer a baseline used oil analysis that's more conservative.
I'd rather have "wasted" (to some, but not to me) the oil on a shortened OCI for a safe (but still meaningful) used oil analysis baseline than have a used oil analysis come back showing wear metals and depleted TBN after pushing the oil longer than it should have been. The $19 jug of PP is a whole lot cheaper than than the engine its going into. Same for the used oil analysis. Both are peanuts by comparison.
A general rule for OCIs is just that, and like any general rule, there are exceptions. The 1ZZ-FE is such an exception.
-Spyder
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Yeah, we would not want to use ANY factual data concerning what is being asked on this subject.
What we need to use is someone who has an obvious bias in his mindset with out CARING on someones engine. As long as HIS bias is told the heck with anything else.
I'll stand by what I've posted since I have quite a bit more knowledge with FACTS on the 1ZZFE engine. Bringing up 1949 Chevys is just silly and off topic. (hint, remember the rules)
Bill
Speaking of silly, yes the 49 Chevy was just that. Duh! Much like the rest of this stuff.
Yeah, we would not want to use ANY factual data concerning what is being asked on this subject.
What we need to use is someone who has an obvious bias in his mindset with out CARING on someones engine. As long as HIS bias is told the heck with anything else.
I'll stand by what I've posted since I have quite a bit more knowledge with FACTS on the 1ZZFE engine. Bringing up 1949 Chevys is just silly and off topic. (hint, remember the rules)
Bill
Speaking of silly, yes the 49 Chevy was just that. Duh! Much like the rest of this stuff.
Originally Posted By: addyguy
From what I've seen here, Toyota's 'seem' to do better on Mobil 1 oils. Yes, that's a vague observation offered w/o much proof, but I think it stands.
So I'd go Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10w30 for 10k.
My daughters 1999 RX 300 was a supposed sludger, but we did 10K OCIs with Mobil 1 10w30 with very good success. She sold it with 90K to her friend and it's still going strong. More silly and bias stuff.
From what I've seen here, Toyota's 'seem' to do better on Mobil 1 oils. Yes, that's a vague observation offered w/o much proof, but I think it stands.
So I'd go Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10w30 for 10k.
My daughters 1999 RX 300 was a supposed sludger, but we did 10K OCIs with Mobil 1 10w30 with very good success. She sold it with 90K to her friend and it's still going strong. More silly and bias stuff.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: addyguy
From what I've seen here, Toyota's 'seem' to do better on Mobil 1 oils. Yes, that's a vague observation offered w/o much proof, but I think it stands.
So I'd go Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10w30 for 10k.
My daughters 1999 RX 300 was a supposed sludger, but we did 10K OCIs with Mobil 1 10w30 with very good success. She sold it with 90K to her friend and it's still going strong. More silly and bias stuff.
And this is relevant how?
To get back to facts, here is one more on topic:
There is no TSB or Recall for the Corolla and sludge. Yet in less than 96,000 km (the mileage on it when I bought it), this engine developed a severe case of sludge that I am still cleaning out. This in spite of the original owner doing all of the following (and I base this on having every single service invoice for the car as the original owner kept immaculate documentation, to the point of OCD):
- it was serviced for the first 8 years of its life by the dealer, as per their standard service schedule. This was done twice every year (spring and fall). For every one of those visits, oem oil & filter were used. This is dealer service far in excess of what most use, as most owners stop going to the dealer for routine maintenance after the warranty is up because they save considerable money by doing so.
- with only one exception, the oil was always changed between 3-5,000 miles - more frequently than Toyota's standard service schedule calls for, and more frequently than what many advocate on BITOG. In the one exception she went 7,000 miles between changes - again less than what many on BITOG advocate.
- the last two years she stuck to 3-5k OCIs, which were done elsewhere but always involved both an oil & filter change. The oils used were API SM which exceeds the SJ requirement on the cap and in the owner's manual.
Yet in spite of the above, it developed sludge. This is a real world example that is parked in my driveway right now and uses a 1ZZ-FE engine similar to what the OP is using.
You reply to real world, real life examples (based on actual experience with this engine and research on it specifically motivated by owning one) with anecdotal data that has no relevance. Nobody in this thread is knocking Mobil, yet you reply as if people in this thread are attacking XOM by stating our actual experience based POV based on owning 1ZZ-FEs.
Your daughter's experience with her RX 300 has no relevance and proves nothing as far as the points concerning the 1ZZ-FE go.
-Spyder
Originally Posted By: addyguy
From what I've seen here, Toyota's 'seem' to do better on Mobil 1 oils. Yes, that's a vague observation offered w/o much proof, but I think it stands.
So I'd go Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10w30 for 10k.
My daughters 1999 RX 300 was a supposed sludger, but we did 10K OCIs with Mobil 1 10w30 with very good success. She sold it with 90K to her friend and it's still going strong. More silly and bias stuff.
And this is relevant how?
To get back to facts, here is one more on topic:
There is no TSB or Recall for the Corolla and sludge. Yet in less than 96,000 km (the mileage on it when I bought it), this engine developed a severe case of sludge that I am still cleaning out. This in spite of the original owner doing all of the following (and I base this on having every single service invoice for the car as the original owner kept immaculate documentation, to the point of OCD):
- it was serviced for the first 8 years of its life by the dealer, as per their standard service schedule. This was done twice every year (spring and fall). For every one of those visits, oem oil & filter were used. This is dealer service far in excess of what most use, as most owners stop going to the dealer for routine maintenance after the warranty is up because they save considerable money by doing so.
- with only one exception, the oil was always changed between 3-5,000 miles - more frequently than Toyota's standard service schedule calls for, and more frequently than what many advocate on BITOG. In the one exception she went 7,000 miles between changes - again less than what many on BITOG advocate.
- the last two years she stuck to 3-5k OCIs, which were done elsewhere but always involved both an oil & filter change. The oils used were API SM which exceeds the SJ requirement on the cap and in the owner's manual.
Yet in spite of the above, it developed sludge. This is a real world example that is parked in my driveway right now and uses a 1ZZ-FE engine similar to what the OP is using.
You reply to real world, real life examples (based on actual experience with this engine and research on it specifically motivated by owning one) with anecdotal data that has no relevance. Nobody in this thread is knocking Mobil, yet you reply as if people in this thread are attacking XOM by stating our actual experience based POV based on owning 1ZZ-FEs.
Your daughter's experience with her RX 300 has no relevance and proves nothing as far as the points concerning the 1ZZ-FE go.
-Spyder
Spyder you left out one major point.
In your engine it did have an PCV ISSUE. Most don't. But that would have problems with ANY oil.
Other than adding that, I agree with your post. But when you are here to push something, it does not matter.
Bill
In your engine it did have an PCV ISSUE. Most don't. But that would have problems with ANY oil.
Other than adding that, I agree with your post. But when you are here to push something, it does not matter.
Bill
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Spyder you left out one major point.
In your engine it did have an PCV ISSUE. Most don't. But that would have problems with ANY oil.
Other than adding that, I agree with your post. But when you are here to push something, it does not matter.
Bill
This is true Bill, and you were the first to realize and point this out the same day I joined. The interesting thing about the PCV issue was that it went undetected by every service station that serviced this car - including the dealer for 8 years, and the service station that did the used vehicle inspection on it.
By the way, I don't fault the sludge issue on Toyota (just in case anyone reading my post reads something in it that wasn't intended), nor would I accuse the Corolla of being a sludger (it isn't - my experience as far as that goes is not the rule).
And (only slightly off topic) I am achieving good results so far in cleaning it out with PP now that the gummed PCV valve is replaced. As stated before, I think the OP would be fine with either product but should be wary of any advice promoting one oil over another based on experiences with it on vehicles that are not using a 1ZZ-FE.
And FWIW I could quite likely be achieving similar results using any decent API SM oil - whether its SOPUS, XOM, or something else entirely. I'm running PP because the price was right and so far (a little over 1,000 miles into my first experience with it) I like it.
-Spyder
Spyder you left out one major point.
In your engine it did have an PCV ISSUE. Most don't. But that would have problems with ANY oil.
Other than adding that, I agree with your post. But when you are here to push something, it does not matter.
Bill
This is true Bill, and you were the first to realize and point this out the same day I joined. The interesting thing about the PCV issue was that it went undetected by every service station that serviced this car - including the dealer for 8 years, and the service station that did the used vehicle inspection on it.
By the way, I don't fault the sludge issue on Toyota (just in case anyone reading my post reads something in it that wasn't intended), nor would I accuse the Corolla of being a sludger (it isn't - my experience as far as that goes is not the rule).
And (only slightly off topic) I am achieving good results so far in cleaning it out with PP now that the gummed PCV valve is replaced. As stated before, I think the OP would be fine with either product but should be wary of any advice promoting one oil over another based on experiences with it on vehicles that are not using a 1ZZ-FE.
And FWIW I could quite likely be achieving similar results using any decent API SM oil - whether its SOPUS, XOM, or something else entirely. I'm running PP because the price was right and so far (a little over 1,000 miles into my first experience with it) I like it.
-Spyder
A timing chain changes a lot on a engine oil, I figured it was pretty much common knowledge.. We use oil bath cam, gear boxes at work, the oil would last forever (well close) however there is a chain that drives from shaft to to cam/levers the chain crushes the oil every time the sprocket turns one tooth.
On newer machines we have changes the oil one time only for warranty purpose in the boxes to clean out any metal residue... there is no more scheduled oil change for these, however we have picked up to do this on our own... I almost failed to mention these are belt driven outside just like a timing belt.
On newer machines we have changes the oil one time only for warranty purpose in the boxes to clean out any metal residue... there is no more scheduled oil change for these, however we have picked up to do this on our own... I almost failed to mention these are belt driven outside just like a timing belt.
Spyder, the only thing that you are doing that I disagree with (and will get slammed by all those that do) is what I see in your signature "+tc-w3", which I assume you are putting in your gas tank.
I'm sorry, it is a 2-cycle oil, not a fuel additive and no antidotal I've used it for years will change my mind about that.
I'm sorry, it is a 2-cycle oil, not a fuel additive and no antidotal I've used it for years will change my mind about that.
I won't slam you for it. Its an experiment only based upon a lengthy thread in the fuel additives forum. Right now, after running several treated tanks of it, I'm on the fence about it even though I still continue to use it; as such I will neither defend nor promote it, though I'm open to any feedback on it.
-Spyder
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