Mobil 1 EP vs Castrol (gold) EP

Rated for is a 'marketing term' and means nothing.

I'd doubt your engine would notice a difference among most spec'd or licensed products.

I also would use an incorrect grade. I prefer HTHS.
 
Send a message to them on messenger and see who sends you free decals first,…then go with that one. It’s a toss up really, you won’t go wrong either way. 😉🍻
If that's the criteria, Mobil 1 will win in a landslide. Castrol doesn't send anything. I asked them recently for some oil change reminders. They told me they don't do that but maybe if I went to a quick change location that uses Castrol, maybe I could get some there. FWIW, I live in the same town as BP's North American headquarters and I thought maybe the fact that we're walking-distance neighbors might sway them a bit. Nope.
Mobil 1 on the other hand sent a nice hat, decals, the oil change reminders I requested and a nice letter thanking me for my interest, etc and signed by a person in ink. I was impressed.
 
but it’s fun to read what people post, the chances are those 2 oils will perform identical anyways, I have never use castrol I might give it a try this time.....
Right, so the whole point of you joining and posting the question is to “have fun” and watch the inevitable posting circus even though you admit you believe they will likely perform identically.

This is after all the intent and outcome of the thread isn’t it?
 
so I choose the castrol , but so everyone know the castrol gold is only DEXOS 1 GEN2 not gen3 , but from what I read online gen 3 oils clean slightly better but lubricate little less ,in many peoples eyes gen 3 went backward , anyone is familiar with this gen2 vs gen3 ?
 
so I choose the castrol , but so everyone know the castrol gold is only DEXOS 1 GEN2 not gen3 , but from what I read online gen 3 oils clean slightly better but lubricate little less ,in many peoples eyes gen 3 went backward , anyone is familiar with this gen2 vs gen3 ?
How about in your eyes? What does it mean to you? How do they lubricate less?
 
If that's the criteria, Mobil 1 will win in a landslide. Castrol doesn't send anything. I asked them recently for some oil change reminders. They told me they don't do that but maybe if I went to a quick change location that uses Castrol, maybe I could get some there. FWIW, I live in the same town as BP's North American headquarters and I thought maybe the fact that we're walking-distance neighbors might sway them a bit. Nope.
Mobil 1 on the other hand sent a nice hat, decals, the oil change reminders I requested and a nice letter thanking me for my interest, etc and signed by a person in ink. I was impressed.

I’ve received a small bundle of decals from Mobil 1 and Pennzoil. I just happened to ask Mobil 1 here recently and they said that they would be happy to send a package to me. After buying 21 quarts of Mobil 1 EP, surely they could send a decal. 🤔😉
Several years ago, I emailed Pennzoil with a question and at the end of it all, they asked for my mailing address and sent a “swag” box to me. In that particular instance, I didn’t even ask for a decal, they offered and then sent a box full of stuff.
 

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ignore the weight ,its just a picture to show the brand .
A grade step up will be the biggest advantage. Step up to a 30 grade.

And if you are in the part of the country that doesn't experience well below freezing temps, SAE 10W30
Best I have used in the past decade has been the new Quaker State Full Synthetic 10w30.
NOT 5W30 or 5W20; the benefit is in the 10W winter rating.

I had a 1.7 LTA MPG improvement over the previous sump of Castrol Edge 5W20

and the Quaker 10W30 has a -65deg F pour point. Something special here, indeed.

That's my real world experience, not bench racing

- Ken
_________________________________________________________
p.s: In the chart above you cannot compare across approvals - MB vs Dexos - it's NOT valid. Lubrizol states that. we have all been there don that ;)
 
ok so actually this castrol is MB229.71 AND THIS SPEC BLOW THE GM DEXOS1GEN3 OUT THE WATER check this out
 

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A grade step up will be the biggest advantage. Step up to a 30 grade.

And if you are in the part of the country that doesn't experience well below freezing temps, SAE 10W30
Best I have used in the past decade has been the new Quaker State Full Synthetic 10w30.
NOT 5W30 or 5W20; the benefit is in the 10W winter rating.

I had a 1.7 LTA MPG improvement over the previous sump of Castrol Edge 5W20

and the Quaker 10W30 has a -65deg F pour point. Something special here, indeed.

That's my real world experience, not bench racing

- Ken
_________________________________________________________
p.s: In the chart above you cannot compare across approvals - MB vs Dexos - it's NOT valid. Lubrizol states that. we have all been there don that ;)
oh ok my bad I didn't read all that
 
A grade step up will be the biggest advantage. Step up to a 30 grade.

And if you are in the part of the country that doesn't experience well below freezing temps, SAE 10W30
Best I have used in the past decade has been the new Quaker State Full Synthetic 10w30.
NOT 5W30 or 5W20; the benefit is in the 10W winter rating.

I had a 1.7 LTA MPG improvement over the previous sump of Castrol Edge 5W20

and the Quaker 10W30 has a -65deg F pour point. Something special here, indeed.

That's my real world experience, not bench racing

- Ken
_________________________________________________________
p.s: In the chart above you cannot compare across approvals - MB vs Dexos - it's NOT valid. Lubrizol states that. we have all been there don that ;)
I'm sorry where does it say that ? and explain why can not over lap the specs , is that not why they have the charts so you can see what specs requirements have stronger additives ? im not starting a argument here I am just trying to educate my self, school me .
 
I think his logic is...between choosing let’s say...Mobil1 AFE 0W20 (rated for 10,000 miles), or Mobil1 EP 0W20 (rated for 20,000 miles)...if you’re going to only run the oil 5,000-10,000 miles?? There isn’t much (if any) benefit of going with the Mobil1 EP, and paying the extra cost, unless you plan to extend the drain interval.

I think that’s what he’s saying.

Correct
 
Been doing my oil changes since my teens, first on my motorcycles, then on my own and now family cars. Originally stumbled on this forum to seek clarification on the "best" oil for my new and most expensive vehicle we have owned - a Mercedes GLC 300 SUV (2021). Have to admit to becoming more and more confused as I try to educate myself on the many engine oil options. My goal is longevity, as I keep my cars until they become inoperative, unsafe or unreliable.

I thought I understood one basic thing....in the cold (Michigan) winters I should use 0W oil to maximize the low temp flow. Seems even this rule may be out the window for some?? I also asked the dealership service tech what oil they used when they service my car. Did NOT want to compromise warranty. They advised they use exactly the same M1 for all the vehicles they service. Mercedes specifies M1 ESP oil at a number of different weights. Their "same" oil was NOT ESP, even though they are a Mercedes dealership. What gives? I am getting more and more lost, drowning in the debates and the multiple abbreviations of oil types.....Group 3 or 4, POA, additive packages, JASO 1 & 2, and much more! Just asking those with the knowledge - please keep it simple. There must be some science to this. I know there is. While I appreciate all are well intentioned, let's keep emotional attachments/agenda out of this.

I have used Blackstone to analyze my used oil on previous vehicles and pleased to report always remained in spec. with no pending catastrophes. So yes, I have play with serious interest in this field. Please rationally critique my options and as available share alternatives.

Mercedes GLC 300 4MATIC (2021) Mobil1 ESP 0W30 - 4-cylinder turbo

BMW 328i manual Trans N20 (2016 F30) - 4-cylinder turbo. Originally either Valvoline 5W40, Castrol Edge 5W40 and moving to M1 0W40 Euro most recently. 5W spec was recommended.

Triumph Thruxton (2013) Air-cooled twin with wet clutch (shared oil) Mobil 1 15W50. NOT JASO spec as required??? Riding only above 45F. Mostly summer when temps. occasionally reach 90s plus.

Previously always used M1 0w40 but had read formula had changed. Had been a good experience on my 2006 Merc E350 4MATIC car and 2003 Porche Boxster S. (986). Both now sold. Still missing my Boxster!
 
I'm sorry where does it say that ? and explain why can not over lap the specs , is that not why they have the charts so you can see what specs requirements have stronger additives ? im not starting a argument here I am just trying to educate my self, school me .
It's in the instructions on the first page of the tool on the right, last paragraph as a "NOTE".

They are demonstrating changes within an approval spec, they don't cross over - it's Apples and oranges.

You might be able to infer where the priorities are focused - like deposit control vs wear.
But as most might say - and as has been proven over time - the engine is usually the last to wear out.
And If the service life is now shorter, it's due to low HTHS (thin) oil not the additisation.

Just choose by Engine performance, Noise and LTA Fuel mileage.
Try something that holds proper approvals, then move on the next oil change if deemed unacceptable.

Every thing else is likely just a fruitless exercise. Quite the rabbit hole to go down.

HTH - Ken
 
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