Mobil 1 EP 5w30 20k...my new normal

If I drove 20k+ miles a year, I'd absolutely do a 20k interval with a UOA to verify. But at the rate I drive, it'd take nearly 4 years! LOL.

I drove 25k last year with my Land Cruiser, I expect 30k this year, I use Castrol Syntec 5w-30 and change it every 5k because there are also 4 u-joints, 2 slip yokes and ball joints and tie rod ends that need to be greased.

I would never go 20k on a single oil change unless I had a 8qt or larger sump and drove unladen on the expressway all day long.
 
Is that based on any science or physical evidence or is it purely an emotional decision?

My plan is to base my OCI on the condition of the oil as determined by a lab. We shall see what they say...perhaps 20k is too long for that lube. If that's the case ill go back to M1 0w40 at a 10k OCI changing my filter every 20k as I had done prior...with the UOAs to back it up.

My guess...the oil held up just fine.
 
Is that based on any science or physical evidence or is it purely an emotional decision?

My plan is to base my OCI on the condition of the oil as determined by a lab. We shall see what they say...perhaps 20k is too long for that lube. If that's the case ill go back to M1 0w40 at a 10k OCI changing my filter every 20k as I had done prior...with the UOAs to back it up.

My guess...the oil held up just fine.
I will take a guess as to your tbn on your uoa when it comes back. 2.1 or 2.2 . My tbn on a uoa that I had coming back after 21,700 miles was 1.9. This uoa was on a 2008 Toyota Sienna with the 3.5 v6. The oil was Mobil1 5w-30 ep.
 
I will take a guess as to your tbn on your uoa when it comes back. 2.1 or 2.2 . My tbn on a uoa that I had coming back after 21,700 miles was 1.9. This uoa was on a 2008 Toyota Sienna with the 3.5 v6. The oil was Mobil1 5w-30 ep.
I forgot to mention the oil filter was an Ultra made by Fram. Thank You, Bill
 
I was well on my way to having a long romance with M1 5W30 EP until I found out the POA amount included in the 5W30 EP is not near as much as some of the other M1 EP grades offered at the same price of $29.99 at WM . Also , with a GDI engine I can't run M1 EP much longer than 5K miles so not a good value for me . I've since ****ed my love interest over to the Valvoline Advanced 5W30 or the 5W39 Advanced EP (bought the Valvoline EP on roll back for $22) .
 
I was well on my way to having a long romance with M1 5W30 EP until I found out the POA amount included in the 5W30 EP is not near as much as some of the other M1 EP grades offered at the same price of $29.99 at WM . Also , with a GDI engine I can't run M1 EP much longer than 5K miles so not a good value for me . I've since ****ed my love interest over to the Valvoline Advanced 5W30 or the 5W39 Advanced EP (bought the Valvoline EP on roll back for $22) .
Yeah I’m pretty much in the same boat...was going to try the Mobil1 EP 5w30 figuring I’d be getting a good stash of POA, but nope. Not the case. And they’ve since moved the price up on the 5w30, matching the 0w20 anyway. I’m thinking of Pennzoil Ultra - it’s relatively well priced on Amazon - but someone just mentioned Havoline Pro DS 6 quarts for $20. That’s as close to a deal as you can get right now, I guess. I’ll have to look into the Valvoline too.
 
As mentioned before I had to change my screen name from Doublehaul for tech reasons beyond my scope but as many of you know ive run mobil 1 0w40 in my Tacoma and 4runner since new at a 10k oci and using Fram Ultras for 2 10k intervals.

Long story short went to wally world to grab a jug and they are no longer stocking it by me. In its place was the new FSx2 5w40. Spoke to a Mgr and he confirmed my store is no longer stocking the 5qt jugs of the 0w40. Knowing nothing about the 5w40 i made the decision to switch.

Supper happy to see that the EP product is now rated for a 20k oci! May be old news here but at last check only the AP product held that waiting was very expensive. The 5w30 EP 5 qt jug was around $25. I made the choice to switch from 0w40fs to the EP 5w30 in both vehicles. We drive a lot of miles and i feel pretty good about the 20k oci. I hate changing my oil with a passion...so this makes life much easier for me. As before ill continue to get UOAs at every change and post em up.

Long story short...M1 5w30 EP 20k OCI test in progress. Stand by for a UOA in doubt 6 months in the 2.7 and the 4.0 Toyotas.

Anyone else planning to take it the distance? Im betting Mobil wouldn't risk their reputation with the mileage claims.
Interested to see the UOAs. I don't think I would run ANY oil that far but like you said they do claim its good for it! Amsoil claims the same thing.. not a fan of Amsoil..just my opinion not tryin rile anyone! Have Gen2 GTDI in my 2 Fords ('21 Bronco Sport & '20 Ranger XLT FX4) hence my reluctantance due to chance of carbon buildup/ excess wear on turbos etc. Keep my vehicles 10yrs usually. My '14 F150 Lariat FX4 Gen1 Ecoboost had 278k mis & ran well when i sold it to friend ..using my maintenance protocol. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum w/ Motorcraft filters changed @5-6k mis. Tranny fluid drain/fill @60k mis (always) usin Motorcraft LV synthetic fluid. -Ohio
 
I was well on my way to having a long romance with M1 5W30 EP until I found out the POA amount included in the 5W30 EP is not near as much as some of the other M1 EP grades offered at the same price of $29.99 at WM . Also , with a GDI engine I can't run M1 EP much longer than 5K miles so not a good value for me . I've since ****ed my love interest over to the Valvoline Advanced 5W30 or the 5W39 Advanced EP (bought the Valvoline EP on roll back for $22) .
Sheesh, same... In my vr30 thread a few people sent me to get m1 ep oil but I'm glad I came across this thread. Since m1 is out of question, I think I will go with PP or PUP if that's available locally.
 
I like the EP but I'd never run it 20k in the Gamma GDI. With the amount of soot it produces it would probably turn to asphalt if I went that long. Only about 2500 miles on it so far and it's already coal black on the dipstick.

Your Toyotas should be just fine at 20k so long as you're not doing mainly short trips and drive at least 20k per year. Remember the bottle say up to 20k or 1 year, whichever comes first.


If you like the idea of slightly thicker oil you could get the EP high mileage, the 5w-30 has a KV100 of 11.8cst
According to Mobil, the new G1D3 has a KV100 of 10.0:


1660697959342.jpeg
 
Sheesh, same... In my vr30 thread a few people sent me to get m1 ep oil but I'm glad I came across this thread. Since m1 is out of question, I think I will go with PP or PUP if that's available locally.
There is no flow of logic in this sentence.

What base oils do you think Pennzoil is using?! It sure isn't PAO, lol.

You don't need PAO in a 5W-30, you can get away with using a heavier Group III base because you aren't trying to hit the 0W-xx Winter rating. Mobil is using GTL, just like Shell is. But Mobil is fortifying the additive package to handle a 20,000 mile interval, while Shell is not. Mobil is likely also using some esters and AN's in their base oil blend along with the GTL, while Shell probably isn't.

There is so much about oils we do not see by just looking at SDS sheets and VOA/UOA's.
 
Sheesh, same... In my vr30 thread a few people sent me to get m1 ep oil but I'm glad I came across this thread. Since m1 is out of question, I think I will go with PP or PUP if that's available locally.
Dude. You clearly do not understand some critical basics about motor oil and now you’re drawing broad and faulty conclusions based on the little snippets you think you do understand.

Please just stop. You’re swerving from lane to lane here like a crazy driver.
 
Dude. You clearly do not understand some critical basics about motor oil and now you’re drawing broad and faulty conclusions based on the little snippets you think you do understand.

Please just stop. You’re swerving from lane to lane here like a crazy driver.

What offended you in my comment? But nice flex though, you either shine some light so that people can in fact understand more or move on.
 
Several people including myself have explained things already.

So what am I supposed to delete my account now? I've been warned on other boards that bitog can be toxic at times; perhaps some people need to lower their expectations from noobs like myself. I'm here to learn but when someone constantly kicks me in the nuts, it doesn't make me learn faster
 
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