Mobil 1 better, same or worse?

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Originally Posted By: NavyVet88
I change my oil without fail every 5k miles. I know I could get upwards of double that oil life in intervals with the oil and filter I use but I'm just paranoid with anything over 5k.

At 5k OCIs I'd be using the cheapest 0W-20 I could find, including synthetic blend options. M1 EP dump at 5k is really a waste of partially used oil.
 
Originally Posted By: bigt61
At 5k OCIs I'd be using the cheapest 0W-20 I could find, including synthetic blend options. M1 EP dump at 5k is really a waste of partially used oil.


Dumping M1 EP at 5k. I always wonder if people are serious or are they just trolling BITOG.
 
NavyVet88,

It is not complicated and I suspect you know this. Your peers were going on and it may have sounded good to you. I was going to say to stick to your funs until you posted 5k OCI on a 15k oil. That is bad, IMO. Use regular oil or the AFE and keep to your regimen.

I too believe the filter is very important. I think we get caught up on the filtration numbers here, but IMO there are other things a filter performs that are more important.
 
Originally Posted By: NavyVet88
Actually the RP 0W-20 is 7.99 a quart at my local Autozone and the Mobil 1 is 9.99


Go to wallyworld for those oils, price is 1/3 less. The only oil I'll buy at an autoparts store is redline and amsoil.
 
Where you are, I would think Valvoline VR1 racing 10w30 would do the trick. But you aren't racing even hohum Motorcraft 5w20 (conophillips) and the excellent Hyundai/Kia 2.4L Filter. Yes - filter are the most important. OE is marginal slightly improved Fram.
And RP API starburst oil is well below average AFA specmanship goes. See PQIA synthetics spreadsheet.
 
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Originally Posted By: bigt61
At 5k OCIs I'd be using the cheapest 0W-20 I could find, including synthetic blend options. M1 EP dump at 5k is really a waste of partially used oil.

Yet why not just use M1 EP, which is engineered for 15,000 miles, keeping the rate of ring deposit build-up as low as possible during whatever interval is chosen? I agree there wouldn't be much difference no matter what oil was used, yet M1 EP is a cut above.

A point should be made that any 0w-20 with dexos qualification is about the best one can do in 0w-20 oils. That is the highest toughest spec for a 0w-20 that exists today. Get a dexos qualified oil, and you are getting something you know is above basic SN GF-5 oil.

See http://www.centerforqa.com/dexos-brand1/ and do a ctrl-f search for 0w-20 to get a full list of the oils that are quality enough to pass the highest spec for a 0w-20.

About the Fram brand, they may have deserved some quality criticisms 15 years ago. Now they have the Fram Ultra variant which is top dog hands down.
 
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5K OCI with Mobil is really wasting resources
At least go the 10K like my Hondas oil monitor gave me on Honda 0w-20
 
I'm a very experienced racer, engine builder, engineer and mech (read that to mean old) (hahaha)

Mobil 1 is consistently good oil. In fact, some "boutique" brands of oil simply purchase the base stock from Exxon-Mobil.

I won't make the claim that M1 is "worlds best". I will claim that it's a good quality product and will provide a known, varnish and sludge free, excellent outcome.

Properly frequent oil changes, and other appropriate care will easily keep core engine problems away. With a few, notable exceptions, most engines do amazingly well on the Mfg's recommended OCI and viscosity.

My current daily driver, a 2004 Honda S2000 with aftermarket turbo uses 5W-40 M1, Turbo Diesel Truck. One of the more robust oils made by Mobil. I have no oil related issues what so ever.

My 2003 Jaguar X-Type with 2.5L V6 is known to spin rod bearings. I now have 150,000 miles on the engine with no problems. I also use M1 5W-40 TDT in that. But I change the oil at 10,000 mile intervals. UOA results simply show that the engine is producing very few wear metals.

Your Honda is likely to produce few wear metals. As is typical for Honda engines.
 
I think the Fram issue is that many people disparaged them for so long that now even if you prove beyond a shadow of a doubt the Ultra is quality, that red can, still can be seen from miles away.

Nobody likes to appear the fool. If I ran Fram I'd change the can to black and put Fram in tiny letters on the bottom of the can. This way the naysayers can save face
smile.gif
 
All of your points are well made in regards to my question(s) especially pointing out that I do dump a15k oil every 5k miles. I do this specifically out of paranoia. I can contribute this mindset due to an analogy I heard from a family mechanic about 3 years ago.
"Whether you buy the Walmart brand milk "great value" or you buy the most expensive brand milk, your gonna always pay more for the upper brand milk but it's gonna expire around the very same time the cheaper milk will, I utilize the same thought process with motor oil and I have been for over 35 years."

Now granted milk and motor oil are an absolute obvious day/night difference, I can't help but have this in mind when look at motor oil only difference in how I process it is that I want the best that I can afford for the only vehicle I have.
I've noticed that the majority of you guys have more than just one vehicle setting in the yard to backup one another in the event you have to take a different one anywhere. Again I only have one vehicle and I want it to last a very long time and running a cheaper oil in it just doesn't give me the warm and fuzzy. Maybe I'm a gluten for financial punishment when it comes to the oil i side with(Mobil 1 EP) but I don't mind it if I'm dumping oil prematurely I'd rather know that I have quality oil on a rock steady oci than oil that I can't remember the last time I changed especially when it's from the bargain bin wherever it was bought.
 
The point is you dont have unlimited money or time.

Spend your money and effort I the right place. Theres no use running your royalpurple for 3k oil changes when your tires and shocks are shot.

Just like theres no point in buying $10/gallon milk if you dont have any cereal to put it on.
 
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The maintenance minder feature on my civic starts a fresh oil change at 100% and at 5-6k miles it hits 50% which to me means the oil is working at half of its full efficiency and 100% sounds better than 50% any day.

If the maintenance minder tells me to [do something stupid] doesn't mean I'm gonna go do just that, but oil is something that can't be disregarded
 
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I doubt there is any oil that is a whole lot better than M1 oils.Any proof than plain oil M1 performs less than AFE or EP under 10,000 mile of use? Actually with proper service can we say, will the engine not last 300,000 with any proper rated oil?
 
Originally Posted By: bigt61
Originally Posted By: NavyVet88
I change my oil without fail every 5k miles. I know I could get upwards of double that oil life in intervals with the oil and filter I use but I'm just paranoid with anything over 5k.

At 5k OCIs I'd be using the cheapest 0W-20 I could find, including synthetic blend options. M1 EP dump at 5k is really a waste of partially used oil.


Totally agree that 5K OCI's are a waste of good oil (M-1 0w20EP), time and $$$.

To be ahead of the game and give your Civic equal protection as well as saving you time and $$$.....I would suggest the following;

Oil: Quaker State Ultra Durability 0w20 (buy at WM at under $22 for a 5 quart jug).
OCI: 7500 miles......Filter: Fram ULTRA (under $10 at WM), which is a 15K filter. and can be used for two OCI's.

With the above regimen, you'll save time and $$$, stop wasting good and expensive oil, and your vehicle will not know the difference. It will also give you more time for your college studies.
 
To the OP:


I can get Mobil 1 0W-20 EP at my local Walmart for $28.68 while Mobil 1 0W-20 AFE for $26.44, these are 5 quart jug prices.

You can get a Fram Ultra oil filter and run the EP for ~10K miles.
 
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