Mobil 1 5w-30 (4,848) - 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 (9,621)

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Here is the raw data from Terry

Car: 2007 Mazdaspeed 3
Miles on Car: 9,621

Oil: Mobil 1 5w-30
Miles on Oil: 4,848

Iron 49
Copper 180
Tin 0
Lead 2
Chromium 2
Nickel 1
Aluminum 4
Titanium 0
Silver 0
Calcium 1896
Magnesium 18
Zinc 803
Phosphorus 876
Barium 5
Molybdenum 95
Antinomy 0
Silicon 8
Boron 89
Potassium 0
Vanadium 0
Viscosity 51.1 @ 40C, 9.3 @ 100C
TAN 2.25
Flashpoint 280
Oxidation 19
Nitration 12
Water (KF – ppm) 564
TBN 5.9
Fuel 1.64
Soot 0
Glycol/Coolant 0.29 (trace)
Viscosity Index 167
Sulfate Byproducts 20
 
Wow that really seems odd for a mazda motor. Either the oil isn't protecting well enough for your driving style (short trips?) or the engine is just breaking in and it needs time to settle down.
 
Wow the wear numbers look a lot like VW FSI engines. Lots of fuel dilution and iron. Looks like the curse of DI
 
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Wow that really seems odd for a mazda motor. Either the oil isn't protecting well enough for your driving style (short trips?) or the engine is just breaking in and it needs time to settle down.




One of the recommendations was to try a different oil. I have Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 in it currently, but am considering switching it for 10w-30. Pennzoil Platinum was on the list of recommended oils for me to consider.
 
I would follow Terry's recommendations. If he thinks that 10W-30 PP would be good, use it. For right now, I'd keep the number of variables down. Get some miles on the current 5W-40 PP, take a sample, and let Terry direct you from there.

Right now, no one has any experience with this Mazda DI engine. You are in new, uncharted territory. Terry has the most experience with DI engines of anyone around. He will not disappoint you.
 
I like Terry's reports. Seem more realistic than B/S labs. Fuel dilution is destroying M1 here.
 
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I would follow Terry's recommendations. If he thinks that 10W-30 PP would be good, use it. For right now, I'd keep the number of variables down. Get some miles on the current 5W-40 PP, take a sample, and let Terry direct you from there.

Right now, no one has any experience with this Mazda DI engine. You are in new, uncharted territory. Terry has the most experience with DI engines of anyone around. He will not disappoint you.




I'm thinking that I will stay with the PP 5w-30 that is already in the car for this 5,000 mi OCI and then see what Terry has to say at that point.

It will cost me $25 for new oil or $50 for a Dyson Analysis and the PP 5w-30 just might do the trick. I'm sure the oil will perform better and the engine could still be breaking in a bit. Only time will tell.
 
what are your driving habits? i'm sure you know mazda recommends a 3000 OCI for any harsh driving, harsh driving environments. also, what was in the engine prior to the M1? when did you change out the factory oil?

i have 5w30 PP in right now and i'm at the end of my 3000 OCI, changed out the factory fill at 1000. i'd like to get a UOA but $50 seems like a lot!
 
I had the factory fill changed at 750 miles to Quaker State conventional (dealer provided oil) and then had the Mobil 1 put in around 4,800 miles.

The car is my wifes daily driver so it get to do the work commute plus lunch and evening errands. Basically, the car gets abused, but that's the price for having two toys for cars. I drive an 89 4Runner that is set up for rock crawling that my wife essentially refuses to drive unless there is a very specific need. I got the 100,000 mile warranty on the Speed so as long as I can document the 5,000 mile severe service OCI I should be fine. I have not actually found anything in the owners manual that specifically mandates that the turbo be considered severe use as the salesman suggested.
 
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what did he reccomend you try?




Terry has requested that his customers not post any of his conclusion or recommendations so you'll just have to see what I do. I intend to work as much as possible within his recommendations. It makes sense that his profit margin isn't very high for the amount of testing that is done and he has been more than willing to discuss things, via email, on a regular basis. Money well spent.
 
Another scary turbo Mazda UOA.
Shorter OCI's are a must.
Thicker oils are worth trying.
 
Yep, we are seeing more and more fuel dilution issues in modern engines that put incredible stress on oils. THIS is why I run synthetic and why I don't listen dino gurus who say dino is just fine for most users. I would rather have insurance rather than not have it.
 
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what did he reccomend you try?




Terry has requested that his customers not post any of his conclusion or recommendations so you'll just have to see what I do. I intend to work as much as possible within his recommendations. It makes sense that his profit margin isn't very high for the amount of testing that is done and he has been more than willing to discuss things, via email, on a regular basis. Money well spent.





not trying to extrude information but if he reccomends something out of the manufactures specs would you still go with his reccomendation or the factories no ifs and or buts 5/30 reccomendation?. i guess this question can be adressed to anyone out there..
 
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Yep, we are seeing more and more fuel dilution issues in modern engines that put incredible stress on oils. THIS is why I run synthetic and why I don't listen dino gurus who say dino is just fine for most users. I would rather have insurance rather than not have it.





Definitely seems that way.
 
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Yep, we are seeing more and more fuel dilution issues in modern engines that put incredible stress on oils. THIS is why I run synthetic and why I don't listen dino gurus who say dino is just fine for most users. I would rather have insurance rather than not have it.




I don't think that the problems with the UOA would have been significantly worse with a conventional oil, but I do understand your point.
 
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