Terry knows that I would like to maintain warranty requirements if possible, but recommended options both in and out of the requirements. I am still communicating with Terry about options and what will be best for me.
Mobil 1 5w-30 (4,848) - 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 (9,621)
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Terry knows that I would like to maintain warranty requirements if possible, but recommended options both in and out of the requirements. I am still communicating with Terry about options and what will be best for me.
Good luck with your decision. Know that Terry will not do you wrong. If you go the conservative approach, you may end up coming around like myself at 12K miles, switching over to non-warranty oil, to save the long term engine life.
To clear up that previous post...
I think the MS3 has some things in common with your RS4, but I don't think the problem is quite at the same level. I don't see the wisdom is straying too far from warranty requirements with a single UOA, especially knowing that nobody, including Terry, has much data on my engine. I have no doubt that Terry knows what he's doing, so don't get me wrong, I'm just not quite ready to "throw in the towel" after one poor UOA. I will be talking to the service manager and would like to have another UOA in hand to explain my case.
Actually, I'd say your engine is running pretty much neck and neck with the RS4. A 280 flashpoint is dangerously low. However, I agree. Exhaust your options with Mazda approved oil first.
What fuel do you regularly use blackdiamond?
280F is by the closed cup method which gives lower results than the open cup method that Blackstone uses.
The car has had nothing but Shell and 76 premium fuels. Both are Top Tier. The dealer even filled it up with Shell and I assume it to be premium since that is what they put in the one I test drove.
I think this is a fair statement. It seems to perform well in other applications, but maybe any oil would do as well?
I don't think this oil is a top choice in this engine BUT that is not a fair statement to make at this point (unless there is a lot of data of other oils in this engine). In G-Man's defense he based the statement on a misunderstanding. Bad assumption + good logic = bad conclusion.
Good luck with that! I have fuel dilution and excessive bearing wear in my turbocharged Subaru, and I showed my UOA reports to the service department. The service guys passed the reports on to the Regional Rep, and I was subsequently informed that Subaru corporate warranty policy is to take "no action" based on "outside data". It will be interesting to see what Mazda's response is.
Also, I had slightly better results using PP 10W30 than with PP 5W30.
This is the turbo 2.3 that Road and Track recently raved about. I do like the look of this car... I am going to watch your anaylsis in case I decide to buy one. How difficult is on oil change on this beast?
blackdiamond,
Do not dispair my friend. As you know, I have the same engine you have and I took quite a flaming here (a-hemm...RS4) for using Motorcraft 5W-20.
Well, I just got my latest UOA with the same MC 5W-20 and although it was only run for 1700 miles, wear numbers continue to drop, especially the copper. The high numbers you are seeing now is nothing more than break-in wear....don't know where it's coming from, just know it isn't abnormal. GM vehicles and Honda/Acura vehicles do it as well....it seems ours follow a similar pattern.
No doubt about it.....the only problem this engine has is the Direct Injection and the fuel dilution it causes. The short block is bullet proof!
A thick 30W light 40W is needed in this engine.....only to stop the fuel dilute. Synthetic oil should degrade less than dino as well. That's my opinion!
Do not dispair my friend. As you know, I have the same engine you have and I took quite a flaming here (a-hemm...RS4) for using Motorcraft 5W-20.
Well, I just got my latest UOA with the same MC 5W-20 and although it was only run for 1700 miles, wear numbers continue to drop, especially the copper. The high numbers you are seeing now is nothing more than break-in wear....don't know where it's coming from, just know it isn't abnormal. GM vehicles and Honda/Acura vehicles do it as well....it seems ours follow a similar pattern.
No doubt about it.....the only problem this engine has is the Direct Injection and the fuel dilution it causes. The short block is bullet proof!
A thick 30W light 40W is needed in this engine.....only to stop the fuel dilute. Synthetic oil should degrade less than dino as well. That's my opinion!
Quote:
Is that 280F?
Mobil 1 totally blows in this application.
Actually, if the experience we've had with the RS4 is any indicator, pretty much 95% of all oils will blow in this applicaton. M1, Castrol, Motul, Elf all look bad.
The the RS4 fuel dilution record holder showed a closed cup flashpoint of 220F, after a friend of mine had spent most of the day at a winter diving school in NH, in sub-zero weather, idling to keep warm. In that particular case, the oil was Motul 8100 E-tech 0w-40. The oil had also sheared to a CSt 100C viscosity of 9.7. VOA for this oil is 11.8.
I also have an MS3(no UOAs yet). The oil filter is a cannister type which must be removed/replaced from underneath the car. It looks like an inverted version of the filter housing that BMW has used since the 1990s. Too bad it's not mounted topside...
Not part of the data I have.
No can do. Simply not possible. Why was that data not measured? It's so important in cases like this.
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