You don’t buy a Tundra for fuel mileage, you will never notice the fuel mileage difference in those oils.
Mobil 1 0W20 Differences - Which to use?
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Jackson_Slugger
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You don’t buy a Tundra for fuel mileage, you will never notice the fuel mileage difference in those oils.
Notice them or not you won't notice any "wear" from using a 8.8 cst oil over a 10.3 cst oil. You will save some money though...
My guess would be EP and truck/suv is just beefed up and probably the same stuff different packaging. AFE is close to oe spec’d Toyota, Honda and Mazda fill.
That’s your opinion. The CST is 11.19 with my 5W30. But I’m a fan of more HTHS.
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Jackson_Slugger
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And I think it is completely useless drag of fuel efficiency with modern vehicles that have oil coolers and efficient cooling systems. But hey, I got stock in big oil! What do I care?
Jackson_Slugger
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And okay, let's assume there actually is more tangible wear using a 0W-20 over a 5W-30 despite the fact there are dozens of posters here with 0W-20 or 5W-20 in their sumps for hundreds of K miles. No offense to the OP, but I kind of doubt he's keeping it for 10 years. That's rare nowadays but not unheard of. But guessing he'll be offered a sweetheart deal to get a new one in five years or less...
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Wear wouldn't be tangible any more than the difference in fuel mileage also wouldn't be, but testing has proved that wear can be less with higher viscosity. Not talking about uoa or "it didn't blow up". And no I'm not going out of my way to find links, it's been years and years of obsessing over this topic too much that I've spent enough time to read studies on this stuff.
I know it won't matter to the original owner, but I'm the guy that would buy the truck after 10 years when I finally can afford it and then hope it lasts 25 years, so I'd rather buy the truck that someone ran 5w30 in. We know that most of these trucks are going to run the 0w20 it says on the cap because they didn't read any oil studies and don't know anything about CAFE.
What I want answers to is what’s difference between M1 0w20 “hybrid” oil and M1 0w20 AFE ANDM1 EP
Jackson_Slugger
$50 Site Donor 2022
Um, when gained a mile+ per gallon, it was pretty discernable. There's a difference between tangibility and not bothering to "notice"'
Which testing was that? Full synthetics? The one where a very biased team "blended" their own 0W-20 even though none was generally commercially available at the time? Oh, wait, they could have gotten full syn Racing 0W-20 from Mobil 1 but chose to make a 0W-20 blend from dubious stocks instead to "prove" that oils not even being sold commercially yet were worse. I didn't mention any UOA, but perhaps they are largely useless but they sure do not show much difference between weights. Oh BTW, 5W-30 IS CAFE!!!!! I had a lube guide from QS covering 85-97' IIRC, the older applications said explicitly not to use "5W-30 for extended highway driving.". And 5W-20 was recommended for winter use long before CAFE (although that gen of oil was awful)..
Anyone that doesn't understand the connection between HT/HS and wear is either not paying attention or doesn't understand physics.
Whether it matters to you is another story. But saying it doesn't exist is silly, just as trying to say that an uncontrolled $30 spectrographic analysis will show a difference. You're not even in the ballpark.
Kind of like claiming one can attribute a 1 MPG difference in everyday driving to an oil grade. Again, this is in the noise. Quite a difference between seeing something and being able to attribute it to one specific variable when there are so many in that system.
But, it keeps getting posted over and over as though it's all facts in some alternate universe that don't apply to a particular individual.
Whether it matters to you is another story. But saying it doesn't exist is silly, just as trying to say that an uncontrolled $30 spectrographic analysis will show a difference. You're not even in the ballpark.
Kind of like claiming one can attribute a 1 MPG difference in everyday driving to an oil grade. Again, this is in the noise. Quite a difference between seeing something and being able to attribute it to one specific variable when there are so many in that system.
But, it keeps getting posted over and over as though it's all facts in some alternate universe that don't apply to a particular individual.
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Unless you push the engine past the level of protection that an 8.8 cSt oil can provide--then you will notice more wear.
A 1mpg difference? Now that seems hard to believe.
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Not if you live on Fantasy Island where all your wishes come true...
Jackson_Slugger
$50 Site Donor 2022
It's been a long weekend and I'm a bit tipsy on the Bills losing to KC. I'll be back to answer all points tomorrow, but I can't let this one go.
Dude, really? Did you actually read my post or do you just have auto-responses? I in no way expressed such faith in a $30 "spectrograph" and maybe reread my post a bit. Are they $30? LOL I almost paid $25 but fully realize that they are essentially useless short of detecting head gasket issues or checking add packs. As an ex-sales fool in the heavy equipment industry I know full well the uses and limitations of UOA's in applications where we geeks over maintain our vehicles anyways, and have never had one (on a passenger vehicle/light truck) So I politely ask you to refrain from the "strawman" school of posting. You are better than that! I was responding to one of your enthusiasts that brought up UOA's actually. Check buddy...
Good night and Go bless us all...
Same goes for you and your responses.
How about that 1 MPG increase? And the old 5W-20 you mention, that’s not comparable. Do you know why?
Jackson_Slugger
$50 Site Donor 2022
Guessing it was all Group I and was also 'not recommended for highway speeds above' (not sure what the temp cutoff was). Of course this predates Mobil 1 releasing that grade around 1974. We're talking 1960's Caddy's here...
Temperature variances due the of improved cooling and oil coolers? (although granted OEM's still manage to screw that up from time to time). Are we accounting for that or just straight up testing at the same generic temps. Yes, thicker oils are called for in applications and I would use the manufacturer recommendation if I had say an Audi or VW, but where the OEM has approved and recommends them they did not do it blindly nor lightly. Do you think they just throw all this in the sump without doing their own testing? The fact that both Toyota and GM light duty pickup engines carry almost 9 qts. of 0W-20? Not 4.5. I am also not saying anyone use a lighter grade than called for simply hoping to get better MPG. But someone did have good luck in an old Saturn SL2 in a winter fill and had no issues IIRC Personally I never would have attempted it unless I really didn't care about the car anymore.....
Never seen anyone post that but not on here like I used to be. FYI-The 5W-30 didn't have many miles on it but had been in the sump for about 6 months and I had used HPL Engine cleaner the OCI prior and I suspect the oil was picking up some deposits and was "flushing out" what was left. It pretty dark for about a 3K OCI so yes that may have something to do with it along with the sharp drop in temps at the end. Mobil 1 states "up to a 2.3%" increase MPG equating to about 9-mile increase in range on a 20-gal tank So I doubled that due to colder temps and skunked oil, never said everyone will get that and in summer I doubt I would get even to 9 miles a tank...
I appreciate all the input, but it seems like most conjecture and opinion. There are lots of people saying to avoid the 0W20, despite the fact that I have experienced it works well with this engine. I will probably stick with EP or Truck and SUV 0W20 based on whats available at CT when it goes on sale. Considering most winters I see -20F to -30 F, it works well (we hit -40F and my old truck ran fine with M1 0W20).
Offense is taken, because you don't know what you are talking about. I owned my last truck for 12 years and had about 185k miles on it when I sold it. The drivetrain was near perfect. The engine ran great, had zero consumption, lots of power and got the same MPGs as when I bought it. Most people thought it was half the age and mileage when they saw it. I decided to sell after 15 very harsh salty winters because one of the cab mounts was going to need a repair and I didn't want to get into that on an old truck. If I lived in a less harsh environment, I'd still be driving the truck. Plus, I wanted to get another Gen 2 Tundra with low mileage and it good shape before they got too old, hence I bought a 2021 with 14k miles. And for the record, almost every car I have owned I have kept for more than 5 years, with the shortest being 5 years. That was a 20 year old car that went to the scrap yard due to rust. Most of my cars I have kept for a decade, including one that I have owned for over 20 years.
I think this guy is used to offending people and seems to go out of his way to do so. LOL. I'm working daily out of a 19 year old truck and still worried about how many years I can get out of it. I can't afford to make payments on a modern truck that won't last anywhere near as long as the old 2005 Silverado. I'm sure it's nice to have the expendable income these guys do to replace a truck because it's old and boring, but don't go out of your way to offend people who can't afford to do that.
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