MMO in BMW

[97tbird]

I really don't think any additives are warranted in OP's situation...why not just do a fresh OC with a LL01 spec oil and be done with it? if you're concerned about extra cleaning, you can do 2 short OCs back to back...

btw, I am planning to do my cooling system overhaul at 60k miles...
better too early than too safe...
VANOS rebuild will be for the 100,000 mile mark

 

[Russell]

Originally Posted By: 97tbird
I really don't think any additives are warranted in OP's situation...why not just do a fresh OC with a LL01 spec oil and be done with it? if you're concerned about extra cleaning, you can do 2 short OCs back to back...

btw, I am planning to do my cooling system overhaul at 60k miles...
better too early than too safe...
VANOS rebuild will be for the 100,000 mile mark

Even at over 200,000 my m50 single vanos is still ok pre my indy. knock on wood.

Keep that oil fresh is the key!

 

[97tbird]

oh my vanos is still very ok...it seems that everyone rebuilds them around 100k miles though...so I thought it's a given that it will need done @ that point...

 

[chewbacca]

Absolutely, follow the above.....

 

[Donald]

All good advice that say no to the additives and yes to high quality synthetic oil. If you have car allocated money burning a hole in your pocket, then order a few Amsoil oil and air filters. You will not find anything better.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Donald
All good advice that say no to the additives and yes to high quality synthetic oil. If you have car allocated money burning a hole in your pocket, then order a few Amsoil oil and air filters. You will not find anything better.


It'll take a cartridge filter.........

 

[Rtstrider]

I don't know the previous maintanence schedule or habits on this car. How can I tell if the cooling system has been overhauled and the vanos changed?

 

[Russell]

Originally Posted By: Rtstrider
I don't know the previous maintanence schedule or habits on this car. How can I tell if the cooling system has been overhauled and the vanos changed?

Do some research on the the car to find as much history as you can. Contact BMW of North America and find out what dealer sold the car, any history they have on the car such as recalls and warrenty repars. Then contact the selling and repairing dealers for records. Also, do you have the owners manual and/or service book. They should provide soem hints to who sold/serviced the car.

Hopefully you will get lucky. I found that all the BMW dealers who worked on my BMW were helpful in providing photocopies of records. Good luck.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: Russell
Originally Posted By: Rtstrider
I don't know the previous maintanence schedule or habits on this car. How can I tell if the cooling system has been overhauled and the vanos changed?

Do some research on the the car to find as much history as you can. Contact BMW of North America and find out what dealer sold the car, any history they have on the car such as recalls and warrenty repars. Then contact the selling and repairing dealers for records. Also, do you have the owners manual and/or service book. They should provide soem hints to who sold/serviced the car.

Hopefully you will get lucky. I found that all the BMW dealers who worked on my BMW were helpful in providing photocopies of records. Good luck.


Or just assume that everything needs attention.

 

[Russell]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: Russell
Originally Posted By: Rtstrider
I don't know the previous maintanence schedule or habits on this car. How can I tell if the cooling system has been overhauled and the vanos changed?

Do some research on the the car to find as much history as you can. Contact BMW of North America and find out what dealer sold the car, any history they have on the car such as recalls and warrenty repars. Then contact the selling and repairing dealers for records. Also, do you have the owners manual and/or service book. They should provide soem hints to who sold/serviced the car.

Hopefully you will get lucky. I found that all the BMW dealers who worked on my BMW were helpful in providing photocopies of records. Good luck.


Or just assume that everything needs attention.


True, but in my opinion, knowing the history of the car is very important. IMO, just part of car ownership. Also BMW fans want and often demand a vehicle history when buying a used car. Might help if/when the original poster wants to sell. I keep all my receipts and also keep a detailed spreadsheet on my BMW and Explorer. Just me I guess

 

[sleddriver]

Originally Posted By: Rtstrider
Hey guys/gals I will be doing an oil change in the next month or two on my newly acquired BMW. I've got an 03 330XI with 120K on it and do not have any records of the service history on this car. So my question is...Do I have to use a BMW speced motor oil if I plan on running 2 qts of mmo plus 6 qts of oil for 1k, 2k, then finally 3k miles? I just want to make sure I clean this engine out if there is any potential for sludge in there. Would a dino like say Pennzoil Yellow Bottle 5w30 or even the regular Supertech 5w30 be ok for these short oci's? Also once this has been cleaned out I plan on switching over to Mobil1 0w-40 for 7.5k intervals from here on out.

P.S. Of course I will be seafoaming right before the first oil change as well

.

• Why no service records? Very odd. I'd be mighty suspicious of a 9yr old BMW-anything with 120K mi on her and NO records. Off-lease? Abused & dumped (on you)?
• Is this the first one you've owned? I'd recommend doing some research on a BMW forum or two for recommendations.
• 2 qts of MMO is way too much. You'll really cut the viscosity of the remaining 6 substantially. You really don't want that in hot, humid Florida.
• If you want to safely flush the oil system out (assuming you haven't changed the oil yet), add a can of BG109 to a warm engine, let it idle for 20 min at 1500 rpm with the hood open, shut off then drain & replace the filter. Don't drive the car with 109 in the oil. It kills the oil viscosity!
• Forget Seafoam. For fuel injection cleaners, I recommend Red Line Si-1, BG44k, 3M or Techron concentrate.
• What about everything else? PS, AT, coolant, brake fluids; hoses, vac lines (get a smoke test), charging system test, throttle body cleaning, etc. With no history, you're flying blind. . in the dark.
• Then again, she's yours to play with & experiment on. . good luck!

 

[d00df00d]

Originally Posted By: sleddriver
I'd be mighty suspicious of a 9yr old BMW-anything with 120K mi on her and NO records. Off-lease? Abused & dumped (on you)?

Agreed.

Mine is like that. The original owner was... well, let's say "a bit sketchy" and leave it at that. Luckily, the second owner was VERY meticulous and attentive; otherwise, I certainly wouldn't have been the third. The car has been fine so far, and still is a lot better than my previous car was, but it definitely has had a few weird problems.

 

[Rtstrider]

Well my car developed the infamous coolant leak from the expansion tank 2 weeks ago. I had been babying it by adding water to it. Well got the low coolant light again, so added water to it and took it straight to the shop. I am having them replace the expansion tank (tech confirmed this is the source of the leak), thermostat, water pump, and having a tune up done. Also found an oil leak when I changed the oil, so they are going to fix that as well. So far including this I will be in $1,600 for repairs. So here's to hoping this is the last of them for awhile

.

 

[Quattro Pete]

I would have them replace all the coolant hoses as well while they're at it. Fan and fan clutch replacement would be a prudent thing to do at this age/mileage as well.

Also, what exactly does their "tune up" include?

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
I would have them replace all the coolant hoses as well while they're at it. Fan and fan clutch replacement would be a prudent thing to do at this age/mileage as well.

And radiator, too.

 

[Trajan]

Probably the temp sensor as well.

Mine was.

 

[Vikas]

Wow; I suppose that $1600 will now jump to $3200, huh??

Why not use epoxy on the expansion tank until you buy the new one and then replace it?

Are all the parts listed bound to be going bad soon enough? Couldn't one evaluate each on its own before replacing?

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
Are all the parts listed bound to be going bad soon enough?

Basically, yes. Most of it is plastic and does not hold up to the high temps under the hood over the years. Other parts like water pump just historically haven't been known to last. Since you're paying the labor to take it all apart, you might as well get all the new parts in there and not have to worry about it for another 60-80K miles or so.

By the way, the parts aren't that expensive if you buy them online. This is all I replaced when doing my cooling system overhaul:

Quote:

Thermostat Housing/Thermostat
Thermostat Housing Seal
Radiator Hose Upper
Radiator Hose Lower
A/C Belt
WP/Alt/PS Belt
Rollers: deflection pulley (1)
Mechanical Tensioner A/C
Mechanical Tensioner WP/Alt/PS
Fan Clutch
Fan Blades
Radiator
Bypass Hose Radiator-Reservoir
Coolant Vent Screw (Brass)
Reservoir Cap
Reservoir
Water Pump
Water Pump Pulley (Aluminum)
fan shroud rivet

All OEM parts. Paid about $650. Then I paid the guy $300 for labor. Had I taken it to the dealer, I would have probably paid more than what the car is worth today.

 

[Russell]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Are all the parts listed bound to be going bad soon enough?

Basically, yes. Most of it is plastic and does not hold up to the high temps under the hood over the years. Other parts like water pump just historically haven't been known to last. Since you're paying the labor to take it all apart, you might as well get all the new parts in there and not have to worry about it for another 60-80K miles or so.

By the way, the parts aren't that expensive if you buy them online. This is all I replaced when doing my cooling system overhaul:

Quote:

Thermostat Housing/Thermostat
Thermostat Housing Seal
Radiator Hose Upper
Radiator Hose Lower
A/C Belt
WP/Alt/PS Belt
Rollers: deflection pulley (1)
Mechanical Tensioner A/C
Mechanical Tensioner WP/Alt/PS
Fan Clutch
Fan Blades
Radiator
Bypass Hose Radiator-Reservoir
Coolant Vent Screw (Brass)
Reservoir Cap
Reservoir
Water Pump
Water Pump Pulley (Aluminum)
fan shroud rivet

All OEM parts. Paid about $650. Then I paid the guy $300 for labor. Had I taken it to the dealer, I would have probably paid more than what the car is worth today.


That said, I think most or all the parts mentioned have been replaced on my car (some more than once) with exception of hoses. Mine are still original. BMW hoses are designed to last a very long time. Just make sure you get very high quality OE and/or OEM quality hoses. Do not use generic "fit all" hoses.

 

[Rtstrider]

Yeah I just spoke with the mechanic and everything in that list was replaced. However this will be the first/last european car I'll ever own. I'm going to go back to the american or asian cars after this where the cars are not so particular on parts, and parts/maintanence doesn't cost an arm and a leg.