Mixing Rotella T4 and T6

[Bonz]

I have a uoa thread posted on the forum that includes Rotella T5 15w40 on the Blackstone report of previous oil changes (far right column) in my ZRX 1200.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...il-1-v-twin-20w50-5065-miles#Post5183041

T5... 3,700 miles, stayed in grade right on the low end of a 40 weight and for what it's worth had a flashpoint of 420° F. This was with the completely stock engine.

Since then, I have added JE 12.5:1 high-compression pistons and slightly more aggressive camshafts from a ZZR 1200. I prefer the higher zinc/phosphorus content of the M1 MC specific oils therefore I am sticking with those at this point.

However T5 has a pretty good makeup based upon I don't recall shift quality falling off.

 

[BigJohn]

I have experienced near the identical as the OP and for the past three years I have mixed my own semi-synthetic for, what I believe to be the very best in the motorcycles I ride. Remember that it isn't just ole T6 anymore, as there are two synthetics.... 5w40 and 15w40.

The reason I mix is because I feel the degradation in the clutch and shifting with straight T6 after 1,500-2,000 miles. When I mix with T4-15w40 the clutch and shifting feel smooth on some of my bikes out to 5,000 miles. I can't explain that with science, but it is very apparent to me. Also, my bikes do not consume as much oil with the semi-mixture.

I have learned there are some nuances.......

Nuance #1.... My Honda VFR1200X and the wife's Kaw Versys-X300 prefer T6-5w40/T4-15w40 mix.
Nuance #2... My WR426 (which is sold) and now my WR450, the wife's KLX250 and my BMW 650GS prefer T6-15w40/T4-15w40 mix.

The commonality is multi-cylinder vs single-cylinder.


I tried T5 and do not like it in my bikes with a shared sump. (Note that T5 does not carry the JASO clutch cert.)

 

[SuperSalad]

Originally Posted by BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted by MotoTribologist


It is an amazing marvel of engineering how they get the synthetic molecules of the numerous base oils with all different molecular structures and sizes, the viscosity modifiers, the anti-wear/extreme pressure, anti-corrosive, and antioxidant additives, friction modifiers, defoamers, dispersants, and detergents all the exact same molecular size and shape isn't it?


It is amazing engineering... whether base or additive... synthetics are purified and uniform...

Quote Mobil 1
"Synthetic oil is not only refined but also distilled, purified and
broken down into its basic molecules. This process not only removes
more impurities from the crude oil, but also enables individual
molecules in the oil to be tailored to the demands of modern engines.
These customized molecules provide higher levels of protection and
performance than conventional oils."

Quote Amsoil
"Pure, Uniform Molecules Form Strong, Stable Lubricants
Petroleum oils have molecular structures that are randomly organized
and, consequently, have limited performance abilities. Their varied
and inconsistent molecular structure results in less film strength and
lubricity. Their paraffinic wax content also makes them more
susceptible to viscosity variance and cold-temperature flow problems."


Structure does not equal size. Also there were about a dozen other components I mentioned outside of the various carbon chain length base oils used in every finished synthetic oil. Sometimes the marketing text just doesn't do reality justice.

 

[Bonz]

Originally Posted by BigJohn
I have experienced near the identical as the OP and for the past three years I have mixed my own semi-synthetic for, what I believe to be the very best in the motorcycles I ride. Remember that it isn't just ole T6 anymore, as there are two synthetics.... 5w40 and 15w40.

The reason I mix is because I feel the degradation in the clutch and shifting with straight T6 after 1,500-2,000 miles. When I mix with T4-15w40 the clutch and shifting feel smooth on some of my bikes out to 5,000 miles. I can't explain that with science, but it is very apparent to me. Also, my bikes do not consume as much oil with the semi-mixture.

I have learned there are some nuances.......

Nuance #1.... My Honda VFR1200X and the wife's Kaw Versys-X300 prefer T6-5w40/T4-15w40 mix.
Nuance #2... My WR426 (which is sold) and now my WR450, the wife's KLX250 and my BMW 650GS prefer T6-15w40/T4-15w40 mix.

The commonality is multi-cylinder vs single-cylinder.


I tried T5 and do not like it in my bikes with a shared sump. (Note that T5 does not carry the JASO clutch cert.)



Hi BigJohn good to see your post. Would still enjoy meeting you since you're just a little bit east of Palmer Lake.

 

[Degreaser]

I have an '05 Kawasaki Vulcan 800 water-cooled shared sump, ride the bike between a low of 8c and high of 26c. I have jugs of both the Shell Rotella T4 15w40 and T6 5w40 and want to try the mixing method which I've never tried doing before. My bike takes 3 liters for an oil change. What if I mixed the T4 and T6 50/50? I want to combine cold start properties of the T6 5w40 and better shifts and longer OCI on the 15w40.

 

[ZeeOSix]

I have an '05 Kawasaki Vulcan 800 water-cooled shared sump, ride the bike between a low of 8c and high of 26c. I have jugs of both the Shell Rotella T4 15w40 and T6 5w40 and want to try the mixing method which I've never tried doing before. My bike takes 3 liters for an oil change. What if I mixed the T4 and T6 50/50? I want to combine cold start properties of the T6 5w40 and better shifts and longer OCI on the 15w40.

Member Widman's oil mixing tool.

https://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Mixtures.html

 

[Speedbird001]

I mix the same 2 oils for my Yamaha Roadliner. Air cooled 1800cc. Same reasons you gave, I started using the 5w40 and noticed the shift issues at about 2000 miles, went to the Mobil 15w50 and come Oct the morning starts would be slow so I started blending the T4 and T6 and its been fine for the last 15000 miles. I dont know what it will be like when my stash of the old Rotella is gone and I have to buy the new stuff.

another Roadliner owner here (rare breed, but I like it). Hows the blend working for you? I used Yamaha Syn 15-50 for years. Last 2 seasons: Amsoil V-twin 20-50. Your spot on; it does not like to crank < ~50 degrees with that grade. I always felt the starter was a little undersized for the motor. Thinking I might go Motul V-twin this year?

 

[samven]

The blend always worked fine and I was more confident that the bike would start particularly when we would take camping road trips down the Blue Ridge Parkway. Even on nice days the morning temps would be down in the mid 40's and there was no power at the more rustic campgrounds. I am in the process of trying the Super Tech 20w50 Synth Motorcycle oil now as sleeping on the ground is a no go the last 2-3 years and I limit my riding to warmer temps. Since passing 66 the motorcycle is not the only thing that wont start in cold weather.

I really wish they had room for a bigger battery and another 1/2 gal of gas.

 

[Black Thunder]

I've mixed t4 and t6 in my bike once or twice and Have also done so in some of my four-wheelers. no issues.

 

[Alain2]

What if I want to combine cold start properties of the T6 5w40 and better shifts and longer OCI on the 15w40.

How often do you start your bike below 0 degree Celsius?

 

[Degreaser]

i never start my bike below 10c, mostly start it at around 13c, should i be using 5w40 or 10w40 or 15w40?

 

[BigCahuna]

I ride throughout the winter, with the lowest temp in the teens. I run 20/50 wt year round and really haven't had starting problems in the cold. But maybe you could say I cheat a little. My bike is in a unheated garage year round. I also buy larger than stock replacement batteries, that are kept on a battery tender year round. Whenever the bike is in the garage , it's on the tender. My bike came stock from the factory with a 26 amp 320 cca battery in it. I found a company that sells 28 amp 400 cca batteries for it, and I have gotten 6 years from one of those. But the last time I went to buy one, they were out of stock. But, they had a 30 amp 420 cca battery that would fit. Apparently they make these batteries to fit the battery tray of my bike, so that's a big plus. I tell you in the winter my bike starts after sitting in a unheated garage like it was already warmed up. 20/50 wt and all. I paid $109 for it shipped to my door. So even if I only get 5 years from it, I feel I got good value for the price. In the winter I also use heated gloves and a jacket liner, and never had an issue with them not heating up to my liking. So my advice is to try to find the largest capacity battery that you can fit on your ride, you won't regret it.,,,

 

[Alain2]

i never start my bike below 10c, mostly start it at around 13c, should i be using 5w40 or 10w40 or 15w40?

There is absolutely no need for 5w then.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

i never start my bike below 10c, mostly start it at around 13c, should i be using 5w40 or 10w40 or 15w40?

Objectively speaking either one of the 40 grades will meet and exceed
your mileage expectations... API's measurable difference shows the 5W
flows quicker at cold start-up to begin lubricating critical engine
components much more quickly than the 10W or 15W... only after your
oil reaches operating temp of 212 F do the 5W40 10w40 15W40 grades
flow at equal rates...

 

[Bonz]

Objectively speaking either one of the 40 grades will meet and exceed
your mileage expectations... API's measurable difference shows the 5W
flows quicker at cold start-up to begin lubricating critical engine
components much more quickly than the 10W or 15W... only after your
oil reaches operating temp of 212 F do the 5W40 10w40 15W40 grades
flow at equal rates...
View attachment 57302

BLS, what temperature is that oil shown?

 

[Degreaser]

only after your oil reaches operating temp of 212 F do the 5W40 10w40 15W40 grades
flow at equal rates...

maybe I need to let my bike idle longer, for example, let's say the temperature is 50F and I start up my bike and let it idle to warm up somewhat before I head out, in your opinion how long roughly in minutes would I need to let the bike idle for it to reach operating temp before heading out?

 

[ZeeOSix]

maybe I need to let my bike idle longer, for example, let's say the temperature is 50F and I start up my bike and let it idle to warm up somewhat before I head out, in your opinion how long roughly in minutes would I need to let the bike idle for it to reach operating temp before heading out?

You don't need to let it warm-up "fully" before taking off. Let it warm-up enough so you can feel a little warmth in the engine case ... at 50F it might take 5~6 minutes. Then just keep the revs down for a few miles until the bike gets near full operating temperature. I always start by bike and let it warm-up some while I'm putting on my gear so by the time I ready the bike it ready.

Did you try the oil mixing tool I linked to in post #26?

 

[Degreaser]

thanks ZeeOSix, I did try the Widman oil mixing tool you linked and I did a few calculations on it but I don't know how to interpret the numbers.

 

[ZeeOSix]

thanks ZeeOSix, I did try the Widman oil mixing tool you linked and I did a few calculations on it but I don't know how to interpret the numbers.

Post the results you got and we can interpret the info.

 

[widman]

Shell claims MA2 clutch performance for the T4 and T6 (I don't see that claim for the T5). But remember that the MA2 is still a range, and you can meet it with very little difference from the old MA1, or you can be at the top of the range in friction characteristics. If I had a wet clutch, I'd be looking for something that is best in that category (although no one publishes their exact numbers. I would try a dedicated MA2 and compare the difference. It is not only feel, but wear.