I'm new here and it's probably been addressed, but can you mix equal amounts of a 0w20 oil and a 5w30 oil and end up with the equivalent of a 2.5w25 ?
Mixing different Weights of oil
- Thread starter DonTownsend
- Start date
- Status
There isn't such grade 2.5W25. By mixing xW20 and xW30 in equal amount you will end up with either heavy xW20 or a light xW30.
Get the actual products that you intend to use, and plug the specs into the Widman mixing caluclator.
http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Mixtures.html
That will tell you what the final viscosities are likely to be...not likely, as additives in the oil don't necessarily play linearly like is assumed.
Then check against J300 viscosity tables.
And you will find that you have most likely made a light 30 grade...maybe a heavy 20.
the 2.5W part is almost certainly a 5W.
So you will have (I reckon) a 5W30...on the light end if you have a use for one.
http://www.widman.biz/English/Calculators/Mixtures.html
That will tell you what the final viscosities are likely to be...not likely, as additives in the oil don't necessarily play linearly like is assumed.
Then check against J300 viscosity tables.
And you will find that you have most likely made a light 30 grade...maybe a heavy 20.
the 2.5W part is almost certainly a 5W.
So you will have (I reckon) a 5W30...on the light end if you have a use for one.
Thank you for the link to that calculator... However I do have something I need to ask.
Where are the best places to find the cSt numbers for a specific oil? I mean, I think that PQIA has that for a wide variety, but they don't have specs for all the oils available that one may be using.
I ask this because the question in the OP is something I wondered too (albeit I knew there is no such thing as 2.5w, etc.) but I just wanted to know how to use that calculator, and where we can find the specs to input.
Thanks.
~ Triton
Where are the best places to find the cSt numbers for a specific oil? I mean, I think that PQIA has that for a wide variety, but they don't have specs for all the oils available that one may be using.
I ask this because the question in the OP is something I wondered too (albeit I knew there is no such thing as 2.5w, etc.) but I just wanted to know how to use that calculator, and where we can find the specs to input.
Thanks.
~ Triton
Triton,
if you google the name of the oil in question, followed by "PDS", google should find a product data sheet for the oil.
e.g. if you put "nulon 5w20 pds" into Google, you will be able to find a PDF version of the data sheet for that oil to get your figures from.
if you google the name of the oil in question, followed by "PDS", google should find a product data sheet for the oil.
e.g. if you put "nulon 5w20 pds" into Google, you will be able to find a PDF version of the data sheet for that oil to get your figures from.
Thanks. Tbh, I knew that at one time, but just forgot. Now that you refreshed my memory I remember you can search for the PDS and the MSDS - but of course the MSDS really isn't what we care about.
~ Triton
~ Triton
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2006
- Messages
- 2,330
I care about the MSDS. I read them all the time. There is good information there. You just need to learn what it is you are reading.
Originally Posted By: Triton_330
but of course the MSDS really isn't what we care about.
Originally Posted By: Triton_330
but of course the MSDS really isn't what we care about.
Mixing won't hurt a thing but the results can be a little unpredictable. I have run some complete and total "mutt mixes" in our old beaters but I always do it in the summer.
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2014
- Messages
- 3,023
A question I have is I hear...don't mix different brands. Why? What's the worst that can happen? Will it cause some varnish? Will the additives fight each other? And not get to the hose bearings fast enough?
I've always looked at it like...the crankcase has perhaps the best mixing tool in the world (crankshaft). Add in a little heat (200degrees), a little blow bye fuel, a crank spinning at 3000 revolutions per minute, and an oil pump squeezing the fluid against a machined metal surface==mixamagic!! Never mind that it's filtered.
Am I wrong here? I'm asking because I have an opportunity to blend some free 5w30 Amsoil into my car - and my car requires 0w20 or 5w20 - I figure I can slice it down a bit, but it won't be shearing it down with Amsoil...maybe mobil 1 or something I can get easily...and cheaper.
I've always looked at it like...the crankcase has perhaps the best mixing tool in the world (crankshaft). Add in a little heat (200degrees), a little blow bye fuel, a crank spinning at 3000 revolutions per minute, and an oil pump squeezing the fluid against a machined metal surface==mixamagic!! Never mind that it's filtered.
Am I wrong here? I'm asking because I have an opportunity to blend some free 5w30 Amsoil into my car - and my car requires 0w20 or 5w20 - I figure I can slice it down a bit, but it won't be shearing it down with Amsoil...maybe mobil 1 or something I can get easily...and cheaper.
Last edited:
The most common warning against mixing is unexpected chemical reactions due to additive clash, and that may lead to deposits.
There is no problem with oils not mixing together.
Which AMSoil do you have? AMSoil always cautions against mixing other manufacturer's oils with theirs because the long oil change interval capability will be compromised. So if you do mix something else into your AMSoil, just do a regular OCI.
And since it's winter, mixing different W-grades together will not necessarily give you something between the two. If you mix 0wXX with 5wXX, assume you have 5wXX. The viscosity calculators will do a good job of predicting the high-temperature grade, but there is no way for a layman to predict the W-grade of a mixture.
There is no problem with oils not mixing together.
Which AMSoil do you have? AMSoil always cautions against mixing other manufacturer's oils with theirs because the long oil change interval capability will be compromised. So if you do mix something else into your AMSoil, just do a regular OCI.
And since it's winter, mixing different W-grades together will not necessarily give you something between the two. If you mix 0wXX with 5wXX, assume you have 5wXX. The viscosity calculators will do a good job of predicting the high-temperature grade, but there is no way for a layman to predict the W-grade of a mixture.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2014
- Messages
- 3,023
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
The most common warning against mixing is unexpected chemical reactions due to additive clash, and that may lead to deposits.
There is no problem with oils not mixing together.
Which AMSoil do you have? AMSoil always cautions against mixing other manufacturer's oils with theirs because the long oil change interval capability will be compromised. So if you do mix something else into your AMSoil, just do a regular OCI.
And since it's winter, mixing different W-grades together will not necessarily give you something between the two. If you mix 0wXX with 5wXX, assume you have 5wXX. The viscosity calculators will do a good job of predicting the high-temperature grade, but there is no way for a layman to predict the W-grade of a mixture.
It's the OE 10k mile 5w30. I was going to wait until late spring to try it, it's too cold where I am right now to mess around with weights....I think. And I was going to cut it with mobil 1 0w20.
The most common warning against mixing is unexpected chemical reactions due to additive clash, and that may lead to deposits.
There is no problem with oils not mixing together.
Which AMSoil do you have? AMSoil always cautions against mixing other manufacturer's oils with theirs because the long oil change interval capability will be compromised. So if you do mix something else into your AMSoil, just do a regular OCI.
And since it's winter, mixing different W-grades together will not necessarily give you something between the two. If you mix 0wXX with 5wXX, assume you have 5wXX. The viscosity calculators will do a good job of predicting the high-temperature grade, but there is no way for a layman to predict the W-grade of a mixture.
It's the OE 10k mile 5w30. I was going to wait until late spring to try it, it's too cold where I am right now to mess around with weights....I think. And I was going to cut it with mobil 1 0w20.
Thanks for the calculator. My plan is to mix equal parts of Royal Purple in 0w20 and 5w30 in a 2008
Escalade Ext to get a little better startup protection and better fuel economy than straight 5w30. The calculator showed I'd end up with about a 2.54w24.46.Also has anyone considered using the Evan's Waterless Coolant ,It doesn't build any pressure ,has a boiling point of about 375 degreesF,
doesn't corrode any engine parts, and it stays in for the life of the car with no need to ever change it. It sounds like to me this would be highly beneficial for the engine,transmission, and increase oil life substantially. It do away with replacing corroded Radiators, water pumps,head gaskets ETC.
Escalade Ext to get a little better startup protection and better fuel economy than straight 5w30. The calculator showed I'd end up with about a 2.54w24.46.Also has anyone considered using the Evan's Waterless Coolant ,It doesn't build any pressure ,has a boiling point of about 375 degreesF,
doesn't corrode any engine parts, and it stays in for the life of the car with no need to ever change it. It sounds like to me this would be highly beneficial for the engine,transmission, and increase oil life substantially. It do away with replacing corroded Radiators, water pumps,head gaskets ETC.
Last edited:
I got a buddy that has a 688 HP supercharged big block Chevy that runs Evan's and he doesn't over heat in 108 F weather(with the ac on). I think it works great, you just have to get all the water out of the engine your putting it into. Tim went with the Even's on a re-ring of his engine so it was easy to get all the water out of the engine, but you also have to drain the heater core too. You have to get all the water out.
Oh, it's not cheap either.
ROD
Oh, it's not cheap either.
ROD
Too many threads now advising against mixing oils even within the same brand.
nO nO AND No.
AT $100 AUD for 5L of Royal Purple in OZ why would one want do that other than play chemist.
Below is an internet net link where mixing of oils was discussed with Royal Purple Tech Teps for street bikes with a view to getting an improvement for the W number. It is not encouraged or recommended.
Evidence no engines have ever blown up is not A scientific reason validating the process It may sound good for the layman.
http://www.superstreetbike.com/how-to/engine-oil-viscosity-mythbusters
nO nO AND No.
AT $100 AUD for 5L of Royal Purple in OZ why would one want do that other than play chemist.
Below is an internet net link where mixing of oils was discussed with Royal Purple Tech Teps for street bikes with a view to getting an improvement for the W number. It is not encouraged or recommended.
Evidence no engines have ever blown up is not A scientific reason validating the process It may sound good for the layman.
http://www.superstreetbike.com/how-to/engine-oil-viscosity-mythbusters
Last edited:
why. no reason to do it. just use that the engine is spec for.....
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Evidence no engines have ever blown up is not A scientific reason validating the process It may sound good for the layman.
http://www.superstreetbike.com/how-to/engine-oil-viscosity-mythbusters
Blackstone Labs says it's perfectly fine to mix as does Valvoline and others...
I don't consider Blackstone Labs etc. to be layman nor would I take a manufacturer's word too seriously who obviously wouldn't want you mix their oil brand with another. I have done it once and would do so again if needed but I PREFER to run 5 quarts of the same.
Evidence no engines have ever blown up is not A scientific reason validating the process It may sound good for the layman.
http://www.superstreetbike.com/how-to/engine-oil-viscosity-mythbusters
Blackstone Labs says it's perfectly fine to mix as does Valvoline and others...
I don't consider Blackstone Labs etc. to be layman nor would I take a manufacturer's word too seriously who obviously wouldn't want you mix their oil brand with another. I have done it once and would do so again if needed but I PREFER to run 5 quarts of the same.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: virginoil
Too many threads now advising against mixing oils even within the same brand.
nO nO AND No.
AT $100 AUD for 5L of Royal Purple in OZ why would one want do that other than play chemist.
Below is an internet net link where mixing of oils was discussed with Royal Purple Tech Teps for street bikes with a view to getting an improvement for the W number. It is not encouraged or recommended.
Evidence no engines have ever blown up is not A scientific reason validating the process It may sound good for the layman.
http://www.superstreetbike.com/how-to/engine-oil-viscosity-mythbusters
I absolutely disagree. While of course I know there is no such thing as "in-between grades" of oils, what I'm disagreeing to is that you shouldn't mix oils.
I say, mix away. Why? All API certified oils must be miscible/mixable in order to obtain, and retain API certification.
Playing chemist? So what. People run Frankenbrews all the time.
Where's CATERHAM when you need him? Of course he has his own special blend named after him, right here on BITOG.
Right now I'm running a mix of two oils in my mother's 96 Explorer. API certified oil is API certified oil. And, we don't run long OCI's anyways. We change around 5k miles or when the OLM pops on. I had some spare bottles of oil left over from previous changes, and her car takes 5 quarts. I mixed 2 quarts of Royal Purple 0w-20 and 3 quarts of Castrol GTX Synblend 5w30. We've had her Explorer for almost 15 years now. For a 1996 Explorer with over 180k miles, she does NOT burn any oil, and has never given us any problems besides it needing a new fuel pump last year, knock on wood.
Mixing brands and grades, so long as all are API certified, is totally fine. It might lower the potential for a longer OCI, but if you don't do long OCI's anyway, it isn't going to matter.
~ Triton
P.S.
Originally Posted By: wemay
Blackstone Labs says it's perfectly fine to mix as does Valvoline and others...
I don't consider Blackstone Labs etc. to be layman nor would I take a manufacturer's word too seriously who obviously wouldn't want you mix their oil brand with another. I have done it once and would do so again if needed but I PREFER to run 5 quarts of the same.
+1
Too many threads now advising against mixing oils even within the same brand.
nO nO AND No.
AT $100 AUD for 5L of Royal Purple in OZ why would one want do that other than play chemist.
Below is an internet net link where mixing of oils was discussed with Royal Purple Tech Teps for street bikes with a view to getting an improvement for the W number. It is not encouraged or recommended.
Evidence no engines have ever blown up is not A scientific reason validating the process It may sound good for the layman.
http://www.superstreetbike.com/how-to/engine-oil-viscosity-mythbusters
I absolutely disagree. While of course I know there is no such thing as "in-between grades" of oils, what I'm disagreeing to is that you shouldn't mix oils.
I say, mix away. Why? All API certified oils must be miscible/mixable in order to obtain, and retain API certification.
Playing chemist? So what. People run Frankenbrews all the time.
Where's CATERHAM when you need him? Of course he has his own special blend named after him, right here on BITOG.
Right now I'm running a mix of two oils in my mother's 96 Explorer. API certified oil is API certified oil. And, we don't run long OCI's anyways. We change around 5k miles or when the OLM pops on. I had some spare bottles of oil left over from previous changes, and her car takes 5 quarts. I mixed 2 quarts of Royal Purple 0w-20 and 3 quarts of Castrol GTX Synblend 5w30. We've had her Explorer for almost 15 years now. For a 1996 Explorer with over 180k miles, she does NOT burn any oil, and has never given us any problems besides it needing a new fuel pump last year, knock on wood.
Mixing brands and grades, so long as all are API certified, is totally fine. It might lower the potential for a longer OCI, but if you don't do long OCI's anyway, it isn't going to matter.
~ Triton
P.S.
Originally Posted By: wemay
Blackstone Labs says it's perfectly fine to mix as does Valvoline and others...
I don't consider Blackstone Labs etc. to be layman nor would I take a manufacturer's word too seriously who obviously wouldn't want you mix their oil brand with another. I have done it once and would do so again if needed but I PREFER to run 5 quarts of the same.
+1
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked