Mixed Oil Debate

I stand corrected

What is the benefit IN MECHANICAL TERMS TO THE ENGINE ?

Mostly unknown for most acute engines. Synergistic effects are possible and what's possible may be pursued whatever way, even as just an idea – once more your loss of control ain't another one's problem.
Sufficient continuous exchange rates / infusion can allow to have slightly different viscosities without ever again turning the drain screw, by topping up with a thinner from late summer and with another from late winter.

Doesn't matter at all what any interests could be – one remains free against any of your ideas.
 
This thread with comments from an oil company formulator is worth reading

 
Mostly unknown for most acute engines. Synergistic effects are possible and what's possible may be pursued whatever way, even as just an idea – once more your loss of control ain't another one's problem.
Sufficient continuous exchange rates / infusion can allow to have slightly different viscosities without ever again turning the drain screw, by topping up with a thinner from late summer and with another from late winter.

Doesn't matter at all what any interests could be – one remains free against any of your ideas.

What exactly did you just say?
 
What exactly did you just say?
Well, Going to try … maybe in the absence of a drain screw you need an engine that consumes oil so that one can be creative with oil formulas keeping it full. Therefore I’m thinking the engine has an acute illness 😷
 
Not a chronic one? Need not even have an "absence of a drain screw" or a bad ring situation. Could just be your rotary deliberately infusing oil. Or anything else, it doesn't ever really matter in any way, as

you know

Synergistic effects are possible and what's possible may be pursued whatever way, even as just an idea – once more your loss of control ain't another one's problem.
Sufficient continuous exchange rates / infusion can allow to have slightly different viscosities without ever again turning the drain screw, by topping up with a thinner from late summer and with another from late winter.

Doesn't matter at all what any interests could be – one remains free against any of your ideas.

Repeat
 
Not a chronic one? Need not even have an "absence of a drain screw" or a bad ring situation. Could just be your rotary deliberately infusing oil. Or anything else, it doesn't ever really matter in any way, as

you know



Repeat
Actually I have a Fumoto valve on standby for the next oil change …
and my intent is to spike with a fresh quart @ 60% OLM … that’s 1 quart in an 8 quart system …
 
How does this in any way address the point being raised?
If you read the thread, an oil formulator recommended mixing two different oils to help clean piston rings. Which is of benefit to the engine, which is the question you asked.

“ To make a 25W60 like this, the oil's going to have to contain an appreciable amount of Group I Bright Stock. For those that don't know, this is stuff that you get from the Propane De-Asphalthing of Vacuum Residue (the heaviest and blackest stuff you get from an oil refinery). It will be very high in sulphur, nitrogen and aromatics. There are no Group II, II+ or III equivalents of Bright Stock. Now don't get me wrong. I personally like Bright Stock. A couple of percent in a PCMO can work wonders, especially for things like diesel piston cleanliness.”

“There's just something about Bright Stock that's great for rings. I might go for 20% with the Group III 10W30. Don't think about any Italian Tune-up's with the mixed oil; just lots of steady driving and lots of 'sit & soak' time so that the aromatics can do their job. Obviously same rules as before; check your dip stick and at the first sign of black, change the oil.”
 
Mobil doesn't recommend mixing BTW:
View attachment 36214

Note the verbiage, IN GENERAL, SHOULD be compatible, NOT LIKELY that you would get a gel. They do NOT recommend mixing oils as a general practice for many of the reasons I've already outlined.

This is all in-line with the miscibility standard.

AMSOIL also doesn't recommend it:
View attachment 36217

Royal Purple:
View attachment 36218

So, can you, if necessary, with minimal risk? Yes. Should you? No.


Somewhat OT, it's funny seeing aviation piston engine oil call-outs on mixing, since there isn't a miscibility standard in play, such as this one from Lycoming:
Interesting it would mention gelling. While I have dumped most of my "scraps" into my "lawn mower" jug and used this Frankenoil in my small engines for years, I do look for anything strange. Before using it I always give it a good shake. And I pour it into a clear measuring cup before it goes into the engine. I've never noticed anything unusual...no weird coloring, no clumping, no streaks or gelling. And this mixture has about everything in it...conventional, synthetic, various brands and just about any weight under 50.

When I change the oil in my small engines I always examine it. I never seen anything unusual in there as well....though I'm no expert.

Would I run this type of Frankenoil in one of my vehicles? No. In a lawn mower....especially one as old as mine? Sure.

As I mentioned earlier....I do have 2 quarts of Valvoline synthetic 0/20 and 2 quarts of Valvoline synthetic 5/30 that I accumulated over the last few months that I intend to use in my wife's Corolla. Same brand, both synthetic, both in the same family within the same brand...just different weights. I feel pretty comfortable about using it. What are your thoughts?
 
Whatever makes your jollies float or at least helps to help another one out in his loss of control situation.


Not much about synergies, but still thanks for fine links! They seem next to extinct.

This thread with comments from an oil company formulator is worth reading

 
OK, lets turn that around.

What is the benefit to mixing?

I would like to see one verifiable legitimate example where any mixing of any oil provided any legitimate benefit that would be unattainable by any properly spec'd oil right out of the bottle.

Anybody have one?

Otherwise, I write the effort off as an ignorant persons exercise in vanity if they do it thinking they have actually achieved something.
Just hopped in here. Sorry for my rudeness.

I've told this story here many times, but VW put the incorrect oil (VW 502) in my Jetta 1.4tsi, so at great expense, I purchased 4L of MOTUL VAG 508 00 / 509 00 synthetic oil. I had the VW dealer drain the 5W40 Castrol and install the MOTUL. The Mechanics refused, so the Service Writer and I did it. I wanted to see the oil go in , after the last screw up.
Well after just a few minutes of driving home it was apparent the oil was too thin. Excessive engine noise and the motor wouldnt spin up above 3000 rpm. I let it stay for a couple days but I came to the same conclusion. The engine ran fine 1500 > 2500 rpm, but had nothing above that. Gassing up one day at IRVING I checked the oil and it read about a 1/2 L low.
When I got home I check again and sure enough it was low. So the new stuff was burning off. I've seen this before with PAO oils Like M1 EP 0W20 in a Honda. It would soon stabilize. But this didnt correct the hot viscosity issue. I had a litre of M1 0W40 FS reserved for my Generac oil change collecting dust, so I said what the $@&!, and dumped in a 1/2 a bottle. Next day, with only just this small addition, the car ran fantastic and continued to do so. Surprising justs that small amount would make a huge difference. But it absolutely did.

So that really isnt a mixing story, per se, but more of a viscosity tuning story. ( as is actually promoted by MOTUL for their 300V series of products)

In the recent decade, I have found many rackety engines would enjoy the addition of Castrol Magnetec as a top off to make a noticeable difference in smoothness and quietness.

As far as true mixing goes, It was a hit or miss affair over the decades.

One Hit out of the park was running a Gallon of Rotella 10W30 T3 Triple protect mixed with a 1/2 qt of Formula Shell 5W30; this back in the API SM days in the decade immediately following Y2K all to keep the raucous Subaru boxer EJ253 happy.
Nothing Scientific here, just seat of the pants and other human senses, though I have posted a UOA of Valvoline and Magnatec mixed in a Subaru 2.0 in a moderate long drain scenario, and the UOA was phenomenal.

- Ken
 
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If you read the thread, an oil formulator recommended mixing two different oils to help clean piston rings. Which is of benefit to the engine, which is the question you asked.

“ To make a 25W60 like this, the oil's going to have to contain an appreciable amount of Group I Bright Stock. For those that don't know, this is stuff that you get from the Propane De-Asphalthing of Vacuum Residue (the heaviest and blackest stuff you get from an oil refinery). It will be very high in sulphur, nitrogen and aromatics. There are no Group II, II+ or III equivalents of Bright Stock. Now don't get me wrong. I personally like Bright Stock. A couple of percent in a PCMO can work wonders, especially for things like diesel piston cleanliness.”

“There's just something about Bright Stock that's great for rings. I might go for 20% with the Group III 10W30. Don't think about any Italian Tune-up's with the mixed oil; just lots of steady driving and lots of 'sit & soak' time so that the aromatics can do their job. Obviously same rules as before; check your dip stick and at the first sign of black, change the oil.”
Bright stock is high viscosity G1 … thought that’s what Lucas (and others) blends oil additives with …
BrocL used to mess with this stuff a bunch … used BG109 or Kreen … I’d personally run those with thinner oil and dump it …
 
Can confirm what ARCO said on the Magnatec. Use it every fill, putting a pint or two in as additive. Works to quiet down euro GM diesels, also PSA(Peugeot) engines a treat. They also feel smoother.
 
Bright stock is high viscosity G1 … thought that’s what Lucas (and others) blends oil additives with …
BrocL used to mess with this stuff a bunch … used BG109 or Kreen … I’d personally run those with thinner oil and dump it …
Does this mean we like Lucas oil stabilizer now?
 
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