Mitsubishi evolution 1 oil choice

[Newuser]

I have a 92 Mitsubishi EVO 1, that I’ve been using as my daily driver for almost two years. Due to the gearing, these run at high RPM down the highway. (Pretty much 4K) I live right off the blue ridge parkway, so tons of hills! Sometimes I will spend 2 hours driving the car hard, pretty much always above 4K rpm. The car is slightly modified, and makes 360WHP. The oil has a hard life.

Factory spec is 5w30/10w-30 depending on climate. When I first got the car, the valve train was noisy with 5w30, switched to 10w30 year round and no valve train noise. It does get down to the 20s occasionally here in the winter.

I’ve been using royal purple HPS 10w30 for 3,000 mile intervals, given the hard life this car leads. It will consume roughly a quart during this interval. No smoke out of the tailpipe, turbo is new, and plugs are always dry. Considering it does spend a lot of time at higher RPM, again sometimes 2 hours being thrashed on and hits redline pretty much every other day. I would chalk that up to normal consumption.

The HPS I’ve been lucky to always find on a massive sale each year, and I will stock up. I’m completely out, and it hasn’t been on sale. Looking to switch to something else, that isn’t so spendy. Any recommendations? Should I move down to a 5w for better cold start up, and a 40w for added cushion given the hard life my car endures?

 

[Flyingdutchman]

Generaly speaking a thinner oil flows faster so cools more, especially in rod bearings and the turbo.

Go with a high spec oil because of the turbo temps and always let it cool down at the end of a trip.

Low quality oil can cook in the turbo.

As a european i am not familiar with royal purple but from what i know it is a high quality oil.

For an older boosted car that is also tuned and driven hard i wouldnt really be bothered by oil consumption.

Does it have an oil cooler? Heat exchanger? Oil temp gauge?
Extreme Heat is what kills the oil prematurley.

If the engine wasnt killed earlier with your current spec and use it probably aslo wont be in the future.

What are other evo owners using?

Totaly different engine but my bmw n52 is always driven hard on 5w30 and also zero problems with always 15k ocis at 223k miles currently.

 

[Newuser]

Generaly speaking a thinner oil flows faster so cools more, especially in rod bearings and the turbo.

Go with a high spec oil because of the turbo temps and always let it cool down at the end of a trip.

Low quality oil can cook in the turbo.

As a european i am not familiar with royal purple but from what i know it is a high quality oil.

For an older boosted car that is also tuned and driven hard i wouldnt really be bothered by oil consumption.

Does it have an oil cooler? Heat exchanger? Oil temp gauge?
Extreme Heat is what kills the oil prematurley.

If the engine wasnt killed earlier with your current spec and use it probably aslo wont be in the future.

What are other evo owners using?

Totaly different engine but my bmw n52 is always driven hard on 5w30 and also zero problems with always 15k ocis at 223k miles currently.

Yes, it has an oil cooler. I never see over 105C for oil temps in the dead of summer, while beating on it for hours. (Gets up to 95-100Degrees here)

This particular oil isn’t sold at any stores locally. I’ve either found it at a clearance rack from places that cleared it out, or Amazon has had it pretty cheap. At its full price, I feel there’s probably better options available.


The EVO 1 was never sold here in the states, and I don’t know anyone with one. But, we did have the eclipse,talon,laser here with the 4g63. Those guys are all over the map. Old school mindset swears by 20w-50, and lots that say only use stock 10w30.

 

[AutoMechanic]

I’d keep the 10w30 and Royal Purple that’s a great oil just expensive I had no idea they made the 10w30 one they don’t sell but the 5w30 in my area. Maybe get some Castrol or Valvoline if you don’t want to spend much those are good too but anything will work.

 

[Flyingdutchman]

I would also stick with the 10w30 factory spec although i think 5w40 would also not really harm it.
But as i told if it hasnt failed on the current oil it probably also wont do that in the future.
Especially because the oil temps dont really go that high.

I owned a peugeot 206 1.6 16v 110hp (eu car only) and with prolonged 120mph/180kmh highway drives the oil temps went as high as 140Celcius for long periods. It always ran on 5w40 with no problems and 15k miles ocis.
Do mind that that was a cheap car, not an EVO

As i said thin oil flows faster through the system so it is shorter period in the bearings and turbo and this also cools better and the oil will last longer.

 

[Newuser]

I would also stick with the 10w30 factory spec although i think 5w40 would also not really harm it.
But as i told if it hasnt failed on the current oil it probably also wont do that in the future.
Especially because the oil temps dont really go that high.

I owned a peugeot 206 1.6 16v 110hp (eu car only) and with prolonged 120mph/180kmh highway drives the oil temps went as high as 140Celcius for long periods. It always ran on 5w40 with no problems and 15k miles ocis.
Do mind that that was a cheap car, not an EVO

As i said thin oil flows faster through the system so it is shorter period in the bearings and turbo and this also cools better and the oil will last longer.

Thanks for the info. I always assumed a heavier oil would cool better.

 

[wemay]

My EvoVIII got either Royal Purple 10w30 or Mobil Delvac 15w40 back in 2005-06. Sold it with 188K mi. and zero issues except for 12 mpg during the recession and a 100 mile round trip to work. Not pocket friendly.

Today, i would use M1, Castrol, Pennzoil or Valvoline 5/0W-40

 

[2EHA]

Mobil 1 0w40 will do everything you need at a very affordable price point

 

[Newuser]

Thoughts on valvoline premium blue in 10w30? It’s a synthetic blend, and is only $12.99 a gallon. Considering my short intervals, this sounds attractive to stock up on.

One of my kids, has a Saab 9-5 which calls for 0w-40 stock. It’s been using Rotella T6 5w-40 for almost 300k miles without an issue. Would love to use a cheap diesel oil, that’s easy to find if I can.

Any idea the zddp content of that weight premium blue?

 

[john_pifer]

First off, welcome to the forum!

That’s a really, really cool car. I love small, light, powerful cars. I owned a 2016 WRX for a few years and really liked it.

You live in the perfect area to enjoy driving that car! I’ve done a lot of motorcycle riding and driving out that way, and I love it out there. Jealous that you get to drive those roads in that car every day!

If I owned that car, I’d stick with an oil with an HTHS rating of at least 3.5, especially with your description of how you like to drive it. There are 0W-30, 5w30, 10w30, 0W-40, and 5W-40 oils that meet that HTHS.

I would definitely use a full-synth. Keep in mind that oils with a more narrow spread from winter rating to hot rating will have fewer viscosity modifying polymers, and, will therefore typically have less potential to leave deposits in your turbo. And, they’ll typically shear less.

For turbocharged engines, I also like to look for oils with a good Noack rating (a test of stability when the oil is heated to a certain temp for a predetermined length of time).

When I had my WRX, I used Pennzoil Platinum 10w30. I know at one time, it had one of the best Noack ratings of any oil on the market, regardless of price, at 4.7%. I think HTHS is only 3.1 or 3.2, however. Maybe a decent winter choice. It is widely available.

A popular choice with this type of turbocharged engine is Mobil 1 ESP. It’s available in both 0w30 and 5w30, and its HTHS is 3.5. So you know it’s going to protect the engine when you’re carving up those mountain roads at high RPM! It’s also on sale with a mail-in rebate at NAPA right now. Check our Promotions/Sales/Rebates section for details.

Would love to see some pics of your car.

How did you obtain the car? Where did it come from?

 

[Newuser]

First off, welcome to the forum!

That’s a really, really cool car. I love small, light, powerful cars. I owned a 2016 WRX for a few years and really liked it.

You live in the perfect area to enjoy driving that car! I’ve done a lot of motorcycle riding and driving out that way, and I love it out there. Jealous that you get to drive those roads in that car every day!

If I owned that car, I’d stick with an oil with an HTHS rating of at least 3.5, especially with your description of how you like to drive it. There are 0W-30, 5w30, 10w30, 0W-40, and 5W-40 oils that meet that HTHS.

I would definitely use a full-synth. Keep in mind that oils with a more narrow spread from winter rating to hot rating will have fewer viscosity modifying polymers, and, will therefore typically have less potential to leave deposits in your turbo. And, they’ll typically shear less.

For turbocharged engines, I also like to look for oils with a good Noack rating (a test of stability when the oil is heated to a certain temp for a predetermined length of time).

When I had my WRX, I used Pennzoil Platinum 10w30. I know at one time, it had one of the best Noack ratings of any oil on the market, regardless of price, at 4.7%. I think HTHS is only 3.1 or 3.2, however. Maybe a decent winter choice. It is widely available.

A popular choice with this type of turbocharged engine is Mobil 1 ESP. It’s available in both 0w30 and 5w30, and its HTHS is 3.5. So you know it’s going to protect the engine when you’re carving up those mountain roads at high RPM! It’s also on sale with a mail-in rebate at NAPA right now. Check our Promotions/Sales/Rebates section for details.

Would love to see some pics of your car.

How did you obtain the car? Where did it come from?

Thank you for the information!

Yes, the car is a real blast. It has the perfect amount of power currently. The stock motor is back in the car. I've owned it for a really long time, well before you could easily find them here It was my track car for many many years, running a built motor with 450-530HP depending on boost. Great fun, but priorities shifted and it sat for years. Had a friends engine blow up a few days before a big event out of town, and told him if he wanted to pull mine he could have it. That motor is still going strong.


You cannot get a lot of the parts for the transmissions anymore. I still have a dog box in mine, and also own a spare dog box. But putting together a few stock boxes with used parts, to run and sell off the dog boxes.

 

[john_pifer]

How has durability been?

Did you source the car from the Japanese Domestic Market?

 

[vivaUkraine]

Current oils meeting Mercedes 229.5 standard are barely xW40 oils - just a smidge above 30 grade. Indeed a 229.5 0w40 or a 5w40 are your best bets: you get viscosity that's just about a match for your factory spec, and MB and Porsche certifications mean the oil is robust for high output turbo engine

 

[Newuser]

How has durability been?

Did you source the car from the Japanese Domestic Market?

When it was a heavily abused, heavily modified track car. I went through a few stockish transmissions, before picking up the two dog boxes. Other than that it’s been very stout.

I’ve killed 3 alternators in 15 years, but that was due to heat from the downpipe. I’ve since relocated the alternator.


Correct. It came from Japan, almost 15 years ago.

 

[2EHA]

Correct. It came from Japan, almost 15 years ago.

so you’re saying this vehicle is an undocumented immigrant?

 

[Newuser]

so you’re saying this vehicle is an undocumented immigrant?

Haha.

Nah, it got here legally. The rest you can use your imagination.

 

[john_pifer]

When it was a heavily abused, heavily modified track car. I went through a few stockish transmissions, before picking up the two dog boxes. Other than that it’s been very stout.

I’ve killed 3 alternators in 15 years, but that was due to heat from the downpipe. I’ve since relocated the alternator.


Correct. It came from Japan, almost 15 years ago.

Cool! And I figure if it’s making 360 WHP, it’s more than just lightly modified!

Werent those cars around 230 HP at the crank back then?

 

[Newuser]

Cool! And I figure if it’s making 360 WHP, it’s more than just lightly modified!

Werent those cars around 230 HP at the crank back then?

I believe 250, but very easy to crack 300 wheel on the stock turbo.

 

[john_pifer]

I believe 250, but very easy to crack 300 wheel on the stock turbo.

I’ve always heard that the 4G63 engine has tons of headroom for power increases.