Misc. Oil/engine related questions - Didn't know where else to post

Messages
250
Location
WV
Hey guys, If you guys wouldn't mind could you help me out with some questions I have? This all related to a 1997 Jeep Wrangler w/2.5L 4-cylinder, 60k miles 1.) I've been using a K&N drop-in air filter in the stock airbox for about a year now and change my oil every 3,000 miles. I haven't really worried about it much cause I never really get in high dust situations with it plus I also run an Outerwears pre-filter on it. If I go offroading or out on the farm I put my factory paper/foam one back in and leave the pre-filter on. I was wondering if you thought this was acceptable or if maybe there was another middle of the road filter that was more suitable? 2.) I've been running Mobil 1 10w-30 as long as possible. When purchased it I'm sure it had dino oil in it and I ran dino oil up until around probably 19k miles then switched to strictly Mobil 1. I've considered using Redline but the Mobil (even the new SuperSyn) seems to be pretty awesome. I always change the oil at 3,000 miles and sometimes but never over 3,500 miles. Is there any reason why I would want to change from Mobil 1 or change what I'm doing? 3.) I'm not sure if my oil pan just sweats or if my real main seal has a slight leak but my oil pan is always wet; however, I never see it drip. I've been considering running Auto-RX with it to clean any deposits I have in there (should be relatively clean). I also have a little bit of lifter noise I think but that is pretty normal on this type of motor. I was wondering if most people still thought Auto-RX was safe and how I should go about using it? Should I add it around 2,500 miles with Mobil 1 then do a full change then add again and run 3,000 miles then change again. Or should I use a fresh lubing and add it then change the filter after 500 miles, add some oil and run for another 2500. I also had read that you should use regular dinosaur oil with Auto-rx but now I'm seeing its ok to use mobil 1 when doing it. any idea? 4.) I'm still using Redline SI-1 fuel injector cleaner about every 5-6th tank of gas in maintenance concentration, I only used the "quick-cleanup" full bottle amount once and that was the first time I had ever cleaned my injectors at around 30,000 miles. Is this still considered a relatively good and safe cleaner. Any reason to stop this practice? 5.) I want to do an oil analysis for fun. I looked on the FAQ's and stuff but I didn't find any answer to where to buy a test kit. What is a the best lab to get to do the test and where can I order there kit from? If one place is better for the money then please let me know. I don't want to spend a lot maybe 20 bucks or something around there. Thanks for your time and help, Seth
 
Messages
658
Location
EU
1. The K&N provides marginal added acceleration and dubious dyno results. Plus, you're sucking hot engine compartment air. Colder is better. The prefilter is probably negating any extra flow the K&N may provide. Ditch it. A paper filter becomes more efficient with use. 2. You're wasting oil by changing out Mobil1 at 3000 miles. It will likely go double that. That's what oil analysis is about. 3. Sweat? Is it oil or water? 4. If you're buying major brand-name gasoline you probably don't need injector cleaner. Another reason to do oil analysis. High insolubles? Use a cleaner. 5. Browse this website. Check the site supporters for Blackstone and Terry Dyson. The kit they will send to you gratis. You pay for the analysis. Your price range is right on.
 

Seth_TJ

Thread starter
Messages
250
Location
WV
quote:
Originally posted by YZF150: 1. The K&N provides marginal added acceleration and dubious dyno results. Plus, you're sucking hot engine compartment air. Colder is better. The prefilter is probably negating any extra flow the K&N may provide. Ditch it. A paper filter becomes more efficient with use. 2. You're wasting oil by changing out Mobil1 at 3000 miles. It will likely go double that. That's what oil analysis is about. 3. Sweat? Is it oil or water? 4. If you're buying major brand-name gasoline you probably don't need injector cleaner. Another reason to do oil analysis. High insolubles? Use a cleaner. 5. Browse this website. Check the site supporters for Blackstone and Terry Dyson. The kit they will send to you gratis. You pay for the analysis. Your price range is right on.
Thanks for the help. I'm going to go to 5k on this mobil 1 10w-30 w/mobil 1 filter and get it analyzed I think. Start from there. What is the good paper filter? Thanks
 
Messages
3,682
Location
Chattanooga, TN
I assume that you have tightened the nuts on the oil pan. In many cases this simple measure will stop or reduce the seepage. This also sounds crazy but if the tightening doesn't work wipe the pan clean around the gasket seam and use silicon gasket sealer on the outside of the seam and seal it up. Believe it or not, this works, sometimes for an unbelievable amount of time.
 

Seth_TJ

Thread starter
Messages
250
Location
WV
quote:
Originally posted by Spector: I assume that you have tightened the nuts on the oil pan. In many cases this simple measure will stop or reduce the seepage. This also sounds crazy but if the tightening doesn't work wipe the pan clean around the gasket seam and use silicon gasket sealer on the outside of the seam and seal it up. Believe it or not, this works, sometimes for an unbelievable amount of time.
I never actually see it drip... it just always looks wet and you can wipe it with a rag and get something on it. I am sure if I went to Dino oil it would quit leaking probably but i'm sticking with the Mobil 1. I will check my bolts and maybe try to do the silicone puddy patching
 
Messages
742
Location
Lake Anna, VA
Seth, Good to see another Jeeper over here from JU! My 2.5L does the same thing yours is doing. Spector is exactly right just tighten the nuts down on your oil pan and wipe it clean and it should cease. Search on the analysis forum and you will find my last analysis of 3K miles on Mobil 1 10W-30 which showed the oill was capable of 6k miles easily! I will be running my current run of M1 to 6K and testing it. I don't think your motor really needs Auto Rx'd since it has had a Mobil 1 diet and 3K changes since 19K miles. Check the site supporters out for oil analysis prices. $20 seems to be about average for most places. HTH
 
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