Thats not what want to hear lol. I know that my step-dad drove it around quite a bit for a work from home delivery business. He would drive from VA to MD or NC to drop boxes off. Also Instead of getting a new battery he would charge it up and rev the piss out it in park to charge the battery. I know he is very good about keeping up with maintenance. He would take it into firestone at the first sign of a maintenance or CEL.
Might be getting 2012 Civic LX 1.8l, What all should I check before putting money into it?
- Thread starter R18Civic
- Start date
I just got a 2012 Honda 1.8 L car…. 155k miles..
It had exceptionally great maintenance and even the transmission fluid was changed every 27 to 30k miles. And the transmission inside is spotless.
So… if I were you I’d look into the transmission fluid being changed regularly.
That is a big aspect to look into here.
You have oil on the plugs… and no misfire codes ? Strange.
Get the upstream issue repaired and I bet the car will run good. And just get new plugs in my opinion. The good ones will only be $55 or less.
Rock Auto sells the NGK iridium plugs and they are from NGK. I bought four of them for my nephews 2012 Civic, and I called NGK to verify that they were legit. Don't buy from Amazon there's a high likelihood you will get counterfeit plugs and those are the kind that the electrodes fall off and destroy the cylinder.
When you install each of the bolt that holds the coil packs, thread them in as far as you can with your fingers and then be very gentle when you first start using any tool to tighten them. They are very easy to cross thread. My nephew cross thread at one by putting a speed wrench on it when it was only partially threaded. I had to build a tap block and buy a spiral fluted bottoming tap to straighten out the threads.
You're going to need a quarter inch Drive torque wrench and a 3/8 inch Drive torque wrench to do these jobs. With aluminum block engines you have to use a torque wrench set to the proper torque for everything that you tighten.
You're going to need a quarter inch Drive torque wrench and a 3/8 inch Drive torque wrench to do these jobs. With aluminum block engines you have to use a torque wrench set to the proper torque for everything that you tighten.
When you have the spark plugs removed you should adjust the valves if they haven't been done in the last hundred thousand miles. Honda engines have solid lifters unlike most other engines that have hydraulic lifters. Because the lifters are solid there's nothing to take up any extra tightening of the valve train and over time the intake valves tend to become too loose and the exhaust valves tend to become too tight. When an intake valve becomes too loose it will make noise, but when an exhaust valve becomes too tight it will not make noise. It's possible that you can have tight exhaust valves and not know it because if you don't have any intake valves get too loose the engine won't make any extra noise. The valves on The Hondas are supposed to be adjusted every 100,000 miles. If an exhaust valve gets too tight it is possible that it will not close all the way and if that happens the extremely hot gas in the combustion chamber it hasn't had time to expand and cool Will Blast past the small open area of the exhaust valve and melt the exhaust valve and the seat that it goes against. Many people don't realize that the temperature in the combustion chamber when the mixture ignites and has not expanded is way too hot for the exhaust valve to handle. When the Piston goes down and the combustion has had time to expand it cools a lot because when gases are allowed to expand they cool. This is why a too tight exhaust valve is a very dangerous thing to have because it will destroy your engine. Therefore you really should adjust the valves when you do the spark plugs if it has not been adjusted in the last hundred thousand miles. There's a lot of YouTube videos about how to do this job. In our discussions about it on the Honda CRV Owners Club forum also. It's very similar to adjusting the valves on the smaller Honda engines.
When my nephews Honda got to 115,000 miles I bought $1,900 worth of parts from online stores and got him the engine coolant temperature sensor the radiator coolant temperature sensor the coolant thermostat the upper and lower radiator hose 2 gallons of Honda anti-freeze a new serpentine belt a high quality serpentine belt tensioner with the idler pulley I think there was another idler pulley also, a new radiator cap transmission fluid transmission filter Engine air cleaner cabin air cleaner don't overlook this because if it gets too clogged you won't have enough air going on your windshield in the winter gasket for the valve cover when we did the valves spark plugs Honda bond to seal up the corners when we put the new gasket on after we did the valves, knock sensor EGR gasket to be replaced when the EGR gets cleaned throttle body gasket mass air flow sensor mass air pressure sensor.
It took me about 2 months to accumulate all those parts from online stores because shipping of Parts is slow because of a virus that can't be mentioned on this site.
It took me about 2 months to accumulate all those parts from online stores because shipping of Parts is slow because of a virus that can't be mentioned on this site.
Add waterpump to the list of parts I got for my nephews car when I bought all those parts.
I would look at air filter and air intake for mouse nests.
Check body & frame for rust.
I find it a little odd that one could afford the registration, insurance but not a $60 Walmart value battery.
I assume you will get the engine running then there is the transmission. I would not put much money into the car until I determined if it was working as it should. A flush or drain & fill. Transmission filter.
Can you do things like the brakes and suspension yourself.
What is wrong with Buick that cannot be fixed?
Check body & frame for rust.
I find it a little odd that one could afford the registration, insurance but not a $60 Walmart value battery.
I assume you will get the engine running then there is the transmission. I would not put much money into the car until I determined if it was working as it should. A flush or drain & fill. Transmission filter.
Can you do things like the brakes and suspension yourself.
What is wrong with Buick that cannot be fixed?
That appears to be the issue actually. My uncles friend just got around to looking at it today and found chewed up fuel line. I may just need to replace the spark plugs and fire it up.
Yes I'm perfectly capable of working on my own vehicle for the most part.
Car drove fine around this time last year so I'm assuming it just sat too long.
Buick was toast as soon as I got it back. I was gone 3 years, car sat in numerous places during that time. As soon as I get it back It starts nickel and diming me. New transmission, 3 new wheel bearings, new lower control arms, then the engine bearings go out and finally the struts collapse when I hit a speed bump. I just gave it away as junk for free, Done with it.
Can confirm, bought a set of "Densos" that ended up getting my dad's Pathfinder to start misfiring again after a week.
As was said previously, get it up to temp. and give it an ol' italian tune up then change the fluids. You fixed the serious problems so now it's just regular maintenance.
