Midas brakes.....

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anyone have any comment on Midas brakes other than they are a crooked jiffy lube for brakes? Anyone know what kind of brakes they use? I'm only interested because of their lifetime guarantee.
 

badtlc

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I don't have a c-clamp or i'd try to do disc brakes myself. The problem with my wife's car is it is front disc and rear drum. From what I have heard, I don't want to mess with the drums.
 
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 Originally Posted By: badtlc
I don't have a c-clamp or i'd try to do disc brakes myself. The problem with my wife's car is it is front disc and rear drum. From what I have heard, I don't want to mess with the drums.
I was a mechanic for quite a few years, so my opinion might be a little biased. With that being said.....c-clamps are cheap. If drum brakes bother you, just do one side at a time so you can compare it to the opposite side. However, if you always wonder if you did it correctly and you aren't quite sure of your work, have it done elsewhere. That statement also applies if you live in an apartment complex where you can't work on your own car.
 
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I concur with avoiding drum brakes but the good news is you only have to mess with them every 75k-100k unless something goes wrong. Simple disk brake work can usually be done with a $5 c-clamp and a $10 socket set from autozone. Get yourself a set of lifetime warranty pads and just swap them out yourself when you have an hour or two.
 
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Pep Boys offers the same warranty. The Midas in my hometown uses the NAPA Safety Stop Ceramic pads.
 

badtlc

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I'd been looking at the Raybestos pads and drums from Rock Auto. I was looking at their ceramics. I want some pads that dust less. The rotors have a "zero turn guarantee." Is that like guaranteeing the rotors for life? OK, so the c-clamp is cheap. What about lubrication? It seems like there are many places that need lubed properly but I'm not sure where. I also saw something about carb cleaner to clean off a coating on the rotors. I'm clueless about that, too. Finally, will drum brakes really last that much longer than the front disc brakes? I won't need to do them all at the same time?
 
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 Originally Posted By: badtlc
I'd been looking at the Raybestos pads and drums from Rock Auto. I was looking at their ceramics. I want some pads that dust less. The rotors have a "zero turn guarantee." Is that like guaranteeing the rotors for life?
Their Advanced Technology ceramics work fine as long as you are not picky about performance. They perform as well as any other premium ceramic pad, but if you're looking for high performance, this isn't your best choice. A "zero turn guarantee" means that the rotors will not have excessive runout when you receive them. That doesn't mean the runout will be in-spec when you install them onto your car. In order to minimize runout with an installed rotor, it is important to clean the hub flange.
 Originally Posted By: badtlc
OK, so the c-clamp is cheap. What about lubrication? It seems like there are many places that need lubed properly but I'm not sure where. I also saw something about carb cleaner to clean off a coating on the rotors. I'm clueless about that, too.
I use dish soap and water to wash off the rotors if there is a packing oil. After drying the rotor, I spray some brake/carb cleaner on there and give it a final wipe. I do this for both new and resurfaced rotors. It is especially important to follow this procedure for resurfaced rotors.
 Originally Posted By: badtlc
Finally, will drum brakes really last that much longer than the front disc brakes? I won't need to do them all at the same time?
Yes, drums usually last at least two sets of front pads. You need to clean and adjust them every 15k at the minimum, especially on heavier applications, to allow for balanced braking and to prevent glazing the front pads.
 

badtlc

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What is wrong w/ ceramic performance? This is for a primary driver but not a racer. As long as the pads can grab well enough to activate the ABS, the pads should be able to stop as quick as any other pad, right?
 
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 Originally Posted By: badtlc
What is wrong w/ ceramic performance? This is for a primary driver but not a racer. As long as the pads can grab well enough to activate the ABS, the pads should be able to stop as quick as any other pad, right?
The ceramic formula should be tuned to the application, so performance will be adequate. It should be fine for most cars that do not come with "performance oriented" braking systems. Your stopping power is more dependent upon the tires that you have.
 
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I agree with the others above. Changing brakes are easy. If you're changing your oil you can change your brakes. C- clamps are cheap buy you may not even need them, I been able to push the pistons down buy hand on a few cars. I would just do the fronts for now unless your rears are really bad. You can get your rotors turned @ almost any parts place and it is cheap. One thing I would recommend, since you will be down there is a brake line flush.
 
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Midas like most other chains that offer a LT warranty is a scam. I'd learn how to do them myself. If you do ever have to go to Midas for warranty pad replacement, rest assured the pads will be free. But you'll pay through the nose for everything else you'll need to put those "free pads" on. AD
 
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 Originally Posted By: Dyoel182
Simple disk brake work can usually be done with a $5 c-clamp and a $10 socket set from autozone.
Go to a real hardware store and get real tools. Great Neck tools are tremendously horrendous. I made that mistake twice with two C-clamps that immediately bent and broke the very first time I used them. So I had to borrow a car and to go Sears to get a replacement. Multiple brake jobs later and it's perfectly good as new. Back on topic, do the fronts yourself. Easy as pie. Rears....eh. They're kind of tricky the first time around. Your choice.
 
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I somewhat disagree that doing disk brakes is a walk in the park. Your use of the word "clueless" means that you would have to study up a bit to learn the finer details beyond just slapping pads on. For instance, on an ABS system, just pushing the caliper piston in without opening the bleeder could force debris into your ABS mechanism, causing many hundreds of $ damage. Recognizing why rotors/pads are worn uneven, diagnosing binding pins, etc., takes a bit of a learning curve. Removing a severely rusted on rotor can be traumatic. Because they are so safety related, you shouldn't take brake work lightly. Read up a bunch and see if someone can help you the first time. They're not rocket science, but they can cause some grief. I suppose it depends how mechanically inclined you are. I agree with the others regarding Midas.
 
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Front brakes are very easy, good tools are a must with any job. The rear drum brakes are a little harder, as others mentioned do one side at a time. For a few $ get a shop manual they are well worth it. With the money you save buy more tools. A man will never, ever have enough tools.
 
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Changing pads is easy. Cleaning up or replacing all the hardware is more work. If the shoes or pads aren't free to move, the brakes won't work right. Eventually the rubber parts in the calipers and wheel cylinders get old, worn, or lose their elasticity, an dmust be replaced. I have always rebuilt my own, but recently kits are hard to find and almost as much as rebuilts.
 

PT1

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after installing Raybestos AT rotors & pads on my wifes Lexus..I am 100% sold on the quality of thier parts. No runout, no turning, not much brake dust, lifetime pad warranty, just clean the packing oil off the rotors with brakekleen and you are good to go. I bedded them in using the 30-30mph slow down method. Perfect pad transfer to the rotors. Excellent wet & dry stopping power actually better than stock parts IMO. Rabestos AT is now my #1 choice.
 
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 Originally Posted By: badtlc
Finally, will drum brakes really last that much longer than the front disc brakes? I won't need to do them all at the same time?
The original is still there with my 180k miles car.
 
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 Originally Posted By: Chris Meutsch
 Originally Posted By: Dyoel182
Simple disk brake work can usually be done with a $5 c-clamp and a $10 socket set from autozone.
Go to a real hardware store and get real tools. Great Neck tools are tremendously horrendous. I made that mistake twice with two C-clamps that immediately bent and broke the very first time I used them. So I had to borrow a car and to go Sears to get a replacement. Multiple brake jobs later and it's perfectly good as new. Back on topic, do the fronts yourself. Easy as pie. Rears....eh. They're kind of tricky the first time around. Your choice.
No kidding. Go find a Snap-On tool truck. That's where you'll find real tools.
 
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