Brake Rotors - Toyota Tundra

[97prizm]

Needing a new set of of front brake rotors for 2013 tundra . Tried the basic raybestos rotors this last time and they have only made it about 12K miles before developing a pretty bad shimmy. I do tow a trailer a decent amount so I know this has been hard on them.

I saw a High Carbon option that is supposed to do better with heat. Is it worth the money to use an upgraded rotor or am I better off using an inexpensive rotor and replacing more often as needed.

DBA (disc brakes Australia) ebc, or baer.

 

[meep]

Gen 1 tundra was an impossible platform for good brakes. Your gen 2 at least has better design.

Concur - I saw brembo warp in under a year in a newer 4R, and replaced those with … (ugh memory) stop tech? Those have held up better than brembo.

I do not understand why Toyota in general is more apt to warp rotors, even on the trucks with larger brake setups.

The element3 pads, when they were good, were the best pads I found for the thing. They are also hard on rotors, but seemed to keep everything in check. Pity those pads have deteriorated.

My Tacoma started to pulse around 15k but incidentally some hard driving fixed it and it hasn’t returned.

 

[iCurious]

Gen 1 tundra was an impossible platform for good brakes. Your gen 2 at least has better design.

Concur - I saw brembo warp in under a year in a newer 4R, and replaced those with … (ugh memory) stop tech? Those have held up better than brembo.

I do not understand why Toyota in general is more apt to warp rotors, even on the trucks with larger brake setups.

The element3 pads, when they were good, were the best pads I found for the thing. They are also hard on rotors, but seemed to keep everything in check. Pity those pads have deteriorated.

My Tacoma started to pulse around 15k but incidentally some hard driving fixed it and it hasn’t returned.

I also concur.

Cases like this, I would rather opt for warranty pads and rotors at Autozone.

 

[mcm0455]

I’m going with Carbotech brakes when the pads finally wear down on my 23 Lexus GX460.

 

[anndel01]

Advics or OEM Toyota. Shimmying, did you bed them properly?

 

[QwikKota]

I'm not saying you're doing anything wrong but if you have to stop suddenly, roll forward slowly afterwards to keep from having the pads stay on the same part of the rotor too long. The area where the pads are traps heat and when the rest of the rotor cools, it can warp.

The last time I had some rotors turned it was only a little more to get new ones, plus the wait time once you remove them, etc.

 

[f355spider]

I have 412,000 miles on my 2007 4.7 Tundra and occasionally tow a two horse trailer.
I have only used the factory pads. Never replaced a rotor...yet. The dealer checks the thickness and run out on them for each pad replacement and only required skimming them once.

Is the OP sure the rotors warped...more likely pad deposition. Get some oem pads or Pagid as recommended by edyvw.

 

[jdw1222]

OK, Thanks I might try a to clean/wire brush rotors and throw on some better pads and see if it helps

 

[Donald]

throwing money away going with anything but the cheapest fully coated rotor Rockauto has to offer. I’ve probably done 100+ of brake jobs easily and unless you have something non utilitarian, which a tundra doesn’t qualify, problems (noise, uneven wear, poor lifespan, pulsating) 90% of the time comes from inadequate prep or failure to identify a preexisting caliper/pin issue not the rotor brand you bought. Coated just last longer, look better and barely cost more if you shop right . Pads require being more selective even though a lot of you waste money on $60-$130 pads that work no better nor last any longer than a good reputable $35-45 set of pads for what you do. Having gone thru every phase from fast n furious Japanese cars, autocross, euro cars to truck/off road Jeeps and driving personal vehicles 100+ miles daily for a living I’ve tried it all from the Hawks, Pagids, EBCs and Brembo’s (performance/premium brands) to the Wagner’s Bendix’s, Bosch’s, TRWs (consumer brands) to the Powestops, R1 Concepts (pseudo performance living off established branding at the right time. I wanna put EBC in there as well) right down to the TRQs and Autoshacks (eBay brands), severe duty, fleet, truck product lines etc I am confident for street use you benefit NOTHING by spending more than the best match (heavy car, truck, small car, low dust requirement, high fade resistance etc) from a $30-60 reasonably priced consumer brand line and cheap reputable coated rotors (I have “Top Notch” brand from Rockauto circulating several of my vehicles).

I agree get "good" quality rotors and "best" quality pads.

 

[live_to_hunt]

Dynamic Friction 5000 are the best for Toyotas. My 2010 and my 2020 Tundra the brakes always felt spongy. These are great I get the rotors for the rust belt. I have these on my wifes 4Runner my daughters Rav4 and My other daughters Hyundai sant fe. I am very happy with them.,

 

[f355spider]

OK, Thanks I might try a to clean/wire brush rotors and throw on some better pads and see if it helps

Find a lonely freeway and take it up to 80 and then stomp on the brakes hard down to 30mph. Do this five or six times may clean off the rotors. But the pads may be simply prone to this, and it may return. A pad replacement might be necessary. I had this issue with a 2001 BMW 540 a couple years ago. I installed new ATE Euro Ceramic pads and new ATE rotors and had a shudder after several hundred miles. Repeated hard braking would stop the shudder, but it would return. Replaced rotors with Zimmerman (rotors in general, are cheap on this car) and the problem returned. Went to Brembo Ceramic pads and never recurred.