Drilled/Slotted Rotors on a Truck?

A

AdmiralYoda

Joined
Jan 23, 2013
Messages
751
Location
MA
I've got a 2021 GMC Canyon with 50k on it and its time for front brakes...again. There is plenty of life on the pads and rotors but I've warped one or both front rotors. I tend to do this alot with just about any vehicle I drive, I usually never get more than 25k out of brakes and it is normally not due to them wearing out....but warping.

I don't race or drive aggressively, I just commute 100 miles a day and there is often stop and go traffic and sometimes some aggressive stopping when traffic comes to a halt. I guess I just develop hot spots that eventually warp the rotor.

That said....I always buy premium rotors and pads, not the cheapest stuff I can find, usually Raybestos, Centric or OEM and ceramic pads.

I've been thinking about trying PowerStop. They sell a kit that includes drilled/slotted rotors with some brake pads that are designed to help with towing.

I would think the drilled and slotted rotors would help remove heat quicker but I'm not sure how well they will work in the long term, especially on a truck. Occasional light mud, pebbles, and I live in MA so salt and sand in the winter.

What is your opinion on these? Give them a shot? Or not worth the trouble on a truck that sees dirt, salt and sand? Thanks!
 
Drilled/slotted rotors are not a good idea and actually counterproductive. In particular, drilled rotors like to crack. The only drilled rotors worth buying are DBA, which are hideously expensive (over $200 each)

Powerstop's Geomet coated rotors are good stuff. Pair them with EBC Ultimax2/Blackstuff pads (not available from Rock Auto).
 
AdmiralYoda said:
I've got a 2021 GMC Canyon with 50k on it and its time for front brakes...again. There is plenty of life on the pads and rotors but I've warped one or both front rotors. I tend to do this alot with just about any vehicle I drive, I usually never get more than 25k out of brakes and it is normally not due to them wearing out....but warping.

I don't race or drive aggressively, I just commute 100 miles a day and there is often stop and go traffic and sometimes some aggressive stopping when traffic comes to a halt. I guess I just develop hot spots that eventually warp the rotor.

That said....I always buy premium rotors and pads, not the cheapest stuff I can find, usually Raybestos, Centric or OEM and ceramic pads.

I've been thinking about trying PowerStop. They sell a kit that includes drilled/slotted rotors with some brake pads that are designed to help with towing.

I would think the drilled and slotted rotors would help remove heat quicker but I'm not sure how well they will work in the long term, especially on a truck. Occasional light mud, pebbles, and I live in MA so salt and sand in the winter.

What is your opinion on these? Give them a shot? Or not worth the trouble on a truck that sees dirt, salt and sand? Thanks!
Click to expand...
Slotted rotors chew up brake pads. Cross-drilled came about because they were lighter and the holes allowed for the brake pad off gassing to keep from having "pad float". I don't think brake pads really have that issue any longer. Have you tried cryo treatment for your rotors? There are a few places that can do it. I've read that many people in SCCA racing do this to extend rotor life.
 
AdmiralYoda said:
I've got a 2021 GMC Canyon with 50k on it and its time for front brakes...again. There is plenty of life on the pads and rotors but I've warped one or both front rotors. I tend to do this alot with just about any vehicle I drive, I usually never get more than 25k out of brakes and it is normally not due to them wearing out....but warping.

I don't race or drive aggressively, I just commute 100 miles a day and there is often stop and go traffic and sometimes some aggressive stopping when traffic comes to a halt. I guess I just develop hot spots that eventually warp the rotor.

That said....I always buy premium rotors and pads, not the cheapest stuff I can find, usually Raybestos, Centric or OEM and ceramic pads.

I've been thinking about trying PowerStop. They sell a kit that includes drilled/slotted rotors with some brake pads that are designed to help with towing.

I would think the drilled and slotted rotors would help remove heat quicker but I'm not sure how well they will work in the long term, especially on a truck. Occasional light mud, pebbles, and I live in MA so salt and sand in the winter.

What is your opinion on these? Give them a shot? Or not worth the trouble on a truck that sees dirt, salt and sand? Thanks!
Click to expand...
Drilled with or without slots just reduce brake fade from repeated braking under track conditions. If you're not experiencing brake fade then I doubt you're warping rotors. I would try different pads and don't sit on the brakes after a hard braking event. Maybe larger rotors to add more thermal mass?

I have over 70k miles on my factory brakes/rotors.
 
Akebono pads has worked well for me in the past. Eric O of South Main Auto put the Power Stop Z23 Evolution Sport brake pads and rotors on Mrs.O's van. Last update was there were doing better than what he was using.

 
I have Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors with Hawk pads on my 2002 Tahoe. I got them after towing a 6,000 lb load through the Appalachians had the brake pedal feeling a bit soft by the time I reached the bottom of the range. A rather uneasy feeling. I replaced the Dot 3 fluid with Dot 4 and changed the rotors and pads. No more fade in the mountains. How much of that is attributable to the Dot 4 vs the rotors and pads, I couldn't say.
 
Drilled iron rotors have less mass, so less thermal capacity. Unless they were swaged with those holes, they are literally drilled and it creates stress risers and leads to cracks. Drilled irons are old technology used for pads that needed gas venting. But they persist due to marketing/style, as people associate the holes with performance. The holes also tend to fill with deposits and lead to pedal feedback.

Slotted are the current compromise for achieving the venting and pad cleaning without creating stress risers or losing too much thermal mass(capacity). They are also susceptible to uneven pad deposits when driven casually.

Blanks work best for most situations, but if you are experiencing "warp." That's not actually rotor warp, but instead uneven pad deposits. Try bedding in your pads to clean that off or swapping to a different compound with better thermals.
 
RDY4WAR said:
I have Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors with Hawk pads on my 2002 Tahoe. I got them after towing a 6,000 lb load through the Appalachians had the brake pedal feeling a bit soft by the time I reached the bottom of the range. A rather uneasy feeling. I replaced the Dot 3 fluid with Dot 4 and upgraded the rotors and pads. No more fade in the mountains.
Click to expand...
Same combo that worked best on my 5.3L GMC Canyon towing near the limit - I was not wearing them out - just looked for what felt safe with drums in the rear …
 
CarlB said:
Drilled iron rotors have less mass, so less thermal capacity. Unless they were swaged with those holes, they are literally drilled and it creates stress risers and leads to cracks. Drilled irons are old technology used for pads that needed gas venting. But they persist due to marketing/style, as people associate the holes with performance. The holes also tend to fill with deposits and lead to pedal feedback.

Slotted are the current compromise for achieving the venting and pad cleaning without creating stress risers or losing too much thermal mass(capacity). They are also susceptible to uneven pad deposits when driven casually.

Blanks work best for most situations, but if you are experiencing "warp." That's not actually rotor warp, but instead uneven pad deposits. Try bedding in your pads to clean that off or swapping to a different compound with better thermals.
Click to expand...
On the flip side - D&S rotors can be thicker - better plated - lots of things. I never had one crack of any kind - enter China junk to scew up the data ~
 
Also OP: can you modify your driving behavior? If you know the brakes are hot but then get stuck at a light for what looks like an extended period, go to P and get off the brakes.

I say this only based on your description of driving conditions and habits in Post #1
 
4WD said:
On the flip side - D&S rotors can be thicker - better plated - lots of things. I never had one crack of any kind - enter China junk to scew up the data ~
Click to expand...
The same is true of blanks. Not cracking drilled just means you aren't getting much thermal cycling or they were swaged instead of drilled.
 
D60 said:
Also OP: can you modify your driving behavior? If you know the brakes are hot but then get stuck at a light for what looks like an extended period, go to P and get off the brakes.

I say this only based on your description of driving conditions and habits in Post #1
Click to expand...
Stationary in Park/Neutral will also leave deposits on the rotor after they are hot.
 
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dad and i have had ebay drilled and slotted rotors on our gm 3/4 ton trucks for years. i have well north of 100k miles on my set and my truck still stops straight and smooth. the D & S rotors help keep them cool to avoid warping.
 
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D60 said:
Also OP: can you modify your driving behavior? If you know the brakes are hot but then get stuck at a light for what looks like an extended period, go to P and get off the brakes.

I say this only based on your description of driving conditions and habits in Post #1
Click to expand...

Better yet, stay in drive and veeeeerrrrry slowly creep forward.
 
CarlB said:
The same is true of blanks. Not cracking drilled just means you aren't getting much thermal cycling or they were swaged instead of drilled.
Click to expand...
As someone with engineering and operating teams under my Org chart - That’s allot of certainty I won’t claim to share …
BITOG members will have opinions - go from there …
 
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