Mazda 3 Oil Filter

Skyactiv? Isn't that a much smaller filter with a metric thread. This car is equipped with the Ford Duratec/Mazda-L engine, it uses a 3/4-16 filter like most Fords.
If the OP really wants an "OE" filter they could use Motorcraft filters, either the fl910, fl400, or maybe even the FL-1A depending on how the mount is spaced of the block, since these same engines with a few very minor differences were used in Ford vehicles for several years.
 
Skyactiv? Isn't that a much smaller filter with a metric thread. This car is equipped with the Ford Duratec/Mazda-L engine, it uses a 3/4-16 filter like most Fords.
If the OP really wants an "OE" filter they could use Motorcraft filters, either the fl910, fl400, or maybe even the FL-1A depending on how the mount is spaced of the block, since these same engines with a few very minor differences were used in Ford vehicles for several years.
I gave her the M1-209 oil filter that my son received from his uncle to give to me. When I go to WM next time I will buy her (2) MC FL-400S oil filters.
 
Skyactiv? Isn't that a much smaller filter with a metric thread. This car is equipped with the Ford Duratec/Mazda-L engine, it uses a 3/4-16 filter like most Fords.
If the OP really wants an "OE" filter they could use Motorcraft filters, either the fl910, fl400, or maybe even the FL-1A depending on how the mount is spaced of the block, since these same engines with a few very minor differences were used in Ford vehicles for several years.


Good question. I just went by their parts listings for a 2011 Mazda3.

Maybe the oil filter never changed?
 
Why does Mazda call it a Skyactiv engine?
Sounds like it's not really just an engine thing.


"The Skyactiv concept features a revised suspension geometry, improved automatic and manual transmission, and various improvements to Mazda's L- engine such as direct injection, upgraded exhaust manifold, increased compression ratio for cleaner burn and higher thermal efficiency, etc. Mazda's previous chassis for the Mazda 3 and Mazda 6 were carried over to the new vehicles."
 
Sounds like it's not really just an engine thing.


"The Skyactiv concept features a revised suspension geometry, improved automatic and manual transmission, and various improvements to Mazda's L- engine such as direct injection, upgraded exhaust manifold, increased compression ratio for cleaner burn and higher thermal efficiency, etc. Mazda's previous chassis for the Mazda 3 and Mazda 6 were carried over to the new vehicles."


Yep. SkyActiv was a initiative basically meaning starting over. Everything was either new or changed to reflect a new beginning and a new mission for efficiency.
 
My daughter has a 2011 Mazda 3 with the 2.0l and it has just under 140k and it has had a steady diet of Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 and a Fram XG3614. It seems to be just fine with it.
 
Yep. SkyActiv was a initiative basically meaning starting over. Everything was either new or changed to reflect a new beginning and a new mission for efficiency.


Also, SkyActiv was phased in over a period of years so certain models like the CX5 were totally new but others like the Mazda6 and CX9 came later.
 
My daughter has a 2011 Mazda 3 with the 2.0l and it has just under 140k and it has had a steady diet of Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 and a Fram XG3614. It seems to be just fine with it.
I'd have recommended the Ultra in the past but now I'll only recommend the orange can Fram, since they cheaped out the media on the Ultra, I can't see paying 2.5x as much for the Ultra over the ol'reliable OCOD, and even the tough gaurd seems like a marginal upgrade for 75% more since the OCODs all have silicone ADBVs now. If you want a truly well built filter for super long change intervals I'd go with a Royal Purple or Amsoil filter in the largest size you could get to fit, the Ultra is no longer it, I could deal with the the relatively flimsy can and flimsy ADBV because the media was so well built but now it's just cheap cheap and not worth it over the standard Orange can.
 
I found this statement on a website called VEHICLE HISTORY;
The 2011 Mazda3 oil type and capacity is 0w-20 and 4.5 quarts. Having high quality oil is important for the engine to run smoothly. You will run into issues with the oil at some point. Bad oil can cause the engine to stop working. A common problem is an awful burning smell. This needs to be inspected as soon as possible or the car might explode. Knocking noise may arise from the engine. You could experience poor gas mileage. Your oil needs to be replaced eventually. Every 5,000 to 10,000 miles is a good rule of thumb. If You don't replace it, there will be issues with the engine.
Bad oil can cause the engine to stop working. What is considered BAD OIL?
A burning oil smell? If not checked immediately the car will explode? A knocking noise may arise? If you don't replace the oil, there will be issues with the engine!
Man, this guy is really laying down some false scare tactics! SMH! 😳

 
I found this statement on a website called VEHICLE HISTORY;
The 2011 Mazda3 oil type and capacity is 0w-20 and 4.5 quarts. Having high quality oil is important for the engine to run smoothly. You will run into issues with the oil at some point. Bad oil can cause the engine to stop working. A common problem is an awful burning smell. This needs to be inspected as soon as possible or the car might explode. Knocking noise may arise from the engine. You could experience poor gas mileage. Your oil needs to be replaced eventually. Every 5,000 to 10,000 miles is a good rule of thumb. If You don't replace it, there will be issues with the engine.
Bad oil can cause the engine to stop working. What is considered BAD OIL?
A burning oil smell? If not checked immediately the car will explode? A knocking noise may arise? If you don't replace the oil, there will be issues with the engine!
Man, this guy is really laying down some false scare tactics! SMH! 😳

The only time you'll have a bad burning smell and develop a bad engine knock is if the valve cover gasket reaches a state of advance rot to the point that it's dumping a ton of oil down the exhaust manifold to the point that you're loosing enough oil that you're not realizing it, which is unlikely, valve cover leaks usually get worse over time and start as a seepage, you'll generally notice long before the engine starts spilling tons of oil down the exhaust manifold, like most transverse mounted I4s these engines tend to develope leaks at the rear side of the valve cover first since the gasket tends to rot first on the exhaust side because one it's the exhaust side and two it's compounded by the heat getting trapped between the firewall and the backside of the engine where relatively little air flows.
 
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