There's nothing wrong with the Baldwins ... I just like more efficient oil filters, that's all. Everyone makes their own decisions based on information, data and facts.
Mazda 3 Mahle [ 2.75 in tall, chinese] filter cut open with Pics. Switch to a Hyundai filter?
- Thread starter WobblyElvis
- Start date
If efficiency wasn’t important to me Baldwin would certainly be on my list.
Why does Honda, Nissan, Toyota, Mazda and Subaru all spec filters that don't filter so well, and yet their engines last?
How do you argue with success?
The difference in filtration must not be significant?
How do you argue with success?
The difference in filtration must not be significant?
Engine health and longevity depends on many things, the oil filter efficiency being one of them if good routine maintenance isn't followed. I'm sure there are some of those engines that are in bad shape if not maintained well (like any other engine), and an inefficient oil filter combined with bad oil change and air filter maintenence doesn't help as much as a higher efficiency filter would in the same situation.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I think this is where we get into the "long enough" aspect. The million mile Ford van for example, which of course was fitted with a 2V modular, an engine with a reputation for longevity, was not in "peak health" near the end of its life, consuming oil and experiencing blow-by, but it DID get there.
If you look at the HD truck engines, ones that are fitted with centrifuges and high end filtration, it is not uncommon for these engines to easily eclipse the million mile mark still in perfect health, despite a life of much harder work. Doug Hillary's random tear-down analysis at 1.3 million km on his OTR DD truck engines (fitted with centrifuges and high end filtration) showed components (liners, bearings) that measured "as new" at that mileage.
Just like API-approved engine oils are designed to keep the ring land area "clean enough" (not spotless), the parameters for the various API test protocols have limits on the allowable amount of wear. They don't mandate what is effectively zero wear, but an "acceptable" amount, the same goes for OE filtration. What is "good enough".
And this works. Cheap API approved oil and filters will take a vehicle a long way. In the vast majority of cases, long enough to satisfy the expectations of the owner of the vehicle, and when it's down on compression and using a bit of oil late in life, they will be OK with that, because they feel they received acceptable service at minimal cost.
I wasn't even a twinkle in my dad's eye yet, but they say up until sometime in the 1950's some vehicle mfg. engines didn't even have factory engine oil filters on them. They didn't last all the long before needing rebuilt either.
>>>If I'm not mistaken, a Fram 7317 is the oversize for Mazda engines.
Correct, double check clearance if that 3 has a splash shield. On some Mazdas, there isn't much room for a longer filter.
Correct, double check clearance if that 3 has a splash shield. On some Mazdas, there isn't much room for a longer filter.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
A lack of oil filters was quite common up until the 1960's. Of course we still see that today with splash lubed OPE that don't have filters, like my Honda GV160 lawnmower engine.
My grandfather was a great collector of antique boats and the only one in our fleet that had an oil filter was the 1950's vintage hotrodded Ford Y-block fitted to our 1931 Chris-Craft Cadet, which had a canister bypass filter on it.
Of course the oil quality during this period also wasn't great, so that needs to be taken into account as well. But power density was also low, so these engines were pretty low stress. We had many that had never been rebuilt and ran just fine. These were low specific output inline 4, 6 and 8 cylinder engines from Gray, Chris-Craft, Ford and Chrysler.
I’ve always respected this view point. But for me I can get flow and high efficiency(best of both worlds) for under $10. Cleaner oil is always better. Will it matter in the long run????
