Maxlife Full Syn PDS - Updated 07/03/2014

[bourne]

Maxlife Full Syn PDS Interesting. I think I found my next oil to try in the Mazda ( ie If I can get it ).

 

[Skid]

Who says 10W-30 is obsolete... much better flash and Noack numbers than the 5W-30.

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: Skid

Who says 10W-30 is obsolete... much better flash and Noack numbers than the 5W-30.

When you try cranking 10w30 at -20F, it kinda gets whooped by a 5w30 syn, but still plenty of regions in the US that can use 10w30 and any OPE.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: Skid

Who says 10W-30 is obsolete... much better flash and Noack numbers than the 5W-30.

It's obsolete for a number of reasons but primarily because the grade's no longer specified by car manufacturer's, replaced by the higher VI 5W-30. The marginally higher FP and lower Noack is irrelevant.

 

[bourne]

So no one noticed the GM Dexos certified 0w20 and 5w20 weights added to the list ??? Thought that would be the party piece, not 10w30 grandpa.

 

[PandaBear]

I'd still use the 10W30 against the manufacture's recommendation on car with DI in hot climate. I need as low a noack as I can get to reduce as much valve deposit as possible.

 

[901Memphis]

I wasn't aware that NOACK has any impact on DI deposits (although some members would have you think that), i think you we need a new test for DI deposits.

 

[Skid]

Originally Posted By: PandaBear

I'd still use the 10W30 against the manufacture's recommendation on car with DI in hot climate. I need as low a noack as I can get to reduce as much valve deposit as possible.

Those valve deposits are from unburned fuel (incomplete combustion).

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Originally Posted By: Skid

Who says 10W-30 is obsolete... much better flash and Noack numbers than the 5W-30.

It's obsolete for a number of reasons but primarily because the grade's no longer specified by car manufacturer's, replaced by the higher VI 5W-30. The marginally higher FP and lower Noack is irrelevant.

VBG. I knew you'd say that. Let's agree to disagree.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: PandaBear

I'd still use the 10W30 against the manufacture's recommendation on car with DI in hot climate. I need as low a noack as I can get to reduce as much valve deposit as possible.

It has never been established that Noack is a factor in any way with regard to intake tract deposits. If you want to minimize the role that motor oil plays in that regard you should choose an oil with a very low TEOST deposit level. The best that I'm aware of is Castrol Edge 5W-30.

 

[Nickdfresh]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Originally Posted By: Skid

Who says 10W-30 is obsolete... much better flash and Noack numbers than the 5W-30.

It's obsolete for a number of reasons but primarily because the grade's no longer specified by car manufacturer's, replaced by the higher VI 5W-30. The marginally higher FP and lower Noack is irrelevant.

Actually, there are still plenty of cars on the road that specify 10W-30...

 

[Klutch9]

Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Originally Posted By: Skid

Who says 10W-30 is obsolete... much better flash and Noack numbers than the 5W-30.

It's obsolete for a number of reasons but primarily because the grade's no longer specified by car manufacturer's, replaced by the higher VI 5W-30. The marginally higher FP and lower Noack is irrelevant.

Actually, there are still plenty of cars on the road that specify 10W-30...

My Miata does, but I'm going to use 5w30.