Maxlife Full Syn PDS - Updated 07/03/2014

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Originally Posted By: Skid
Who says 10W-30 is obsolete... much better flash and Noack numbers than the 5W-30.
When you try cranking 10w30 at -20F, it kinda gets whooped by a 5w30 syn, but still plenty of regions in the US that can use 10w30 and any OPE.
 
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Originally Posted By: Skid
Who says 10W-30 is obsolete... much better flash and Noack numbers than the 5W-30.
It's obsolete for a number of reasons but primarily because the grade's no longer specified by car manufacturer's, replaced by the higher VI 5W-30. The marginally higher FP and lower Noack is irrelevant.
 

bourne

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So no one noticed the GM Dexos certified 0w20 and 5w20 weights added to the list ??? Thought that would be the party piece, not 10w30 grandpa.
 
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I'd still use the 10W30 against the manufacture's recommendation on car with DI in hot climate. I need as low a noack as I can get to reduce as much valve deposit as possible.
 
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I wasn't aware that NOACK has any impact on DI deposits (although some members would have you think that), i think you we need a new test for DI deposits.
 
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Originally Posted By: PandaBear
I'd still use the 10W30 against the manufacture's recommendation on car with DI in hot climate. I need as low a noack as I can get to reduce as much valve deposit as possible.
Those valve deposits are from unburned fuel (incomplete combustion).
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Skid
Who says 10W-30 is obsolete... much better flash and Noack numbers than the 5W-30.
It's obsolete for a number of reasons but primarily because the grade's no longer specified by car manufacturer's, replaced by the higher VI 5W-30. The marginally higher FP and lower Noack is irrelevant.
VBG. I knew you'd say that. Let's agree to disagree.
 
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Joined
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Originally Posted By: PandaBear
I'd still use the 10W30 against the manufacture's recommendation on car with DI in hot climate. I need as low a noack as I can get to reduce as much valve deposit as possible.
It has never been established that Noack is a factor in any way with regard to intake tract deposits. If you want to minimize the role that motor oil plays in that regard you should choose an oil with a very low TEOST deposit level. The best that I'm aware of is Castrol Edge 5W-30.
 
Joined
Mar 15, 2006
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Buffalo, NY
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Skid
Who says 10W-30 is obsolete... much better flash and Noack numbers than the 5W-30.
It's obsolete for a number of reasons but primarily because the grade's no longer specified by car manufacturer's, replaced by the higher VI 5W-30. The marginally higher FP and lower Noack is irrelevant.
Actually, there are still plenty of cars on the road that specify 10W-30...
 
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Jan 7, 2009
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Rochester, MI, US, World
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Skid
Who says 10W-30 is obsolete... much better flash and Noack numbers than the 5W-30.
It's obsolete for a number of reasons but primarily because the grade's no longer specified by car manufacturer's, replaced by the higher VI 5W-30. The marginally higher FP and lower Noack is irrelevant.
Actually, there are still plenty of cars on the road that specify 10W-30...
My Miata does, but I'm going to use 5w30.
 
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