Maxlife Full Syn PDS - Updated 07/03/2014

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Originally Posted By: Skid
Who says 10W-30 is obsolete... much better flash and Noack numbers than the 5W-30.



When you try cranking 10w30 at -20F, it kinda gets whooped by a 5w30 syn, but still plenty of regions in the US that can use 10w30 and any OPE.
 
Originally Posted By: Skid
Who says 10W-30 is obsolete... much better flash and Noack numbers than the 5W-30.

It's obsolete for a number of reasons but primarily because the grade's no longer specified by car manufacturer's, replaced by the higher VI 5W-30.
The marginally higher FP and lower Noack is irrelevant.
 
So no one noticed the GM Dexos certified 0w20 and 5w20 weights added to the list ??? Thought that would be the party piece, not 10w30 grandpa.
 
I'd still use the 10W30 against the manufacture's recommendation on car with DI in hot climate. I need as low a noack as I can get to reduce as much valve deposit as possible.
 
I wasn't aware that NOACK has any impact on DI deposits (although some members would have you think that), i think you we need a new test for DI deposits.
 
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
I'd still use the 10W30 against the manufacture's recommendation on car with DI in hot climate. I need as low a noack as I can get to reduce as much valve deposit as possible.

Those valve deposits are from unburned fuel (incomplete combustion).
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Skid
Who says 10W-30 is obsolete... much better flash and Noack numbers than the 5W-30.

It's obsolete for a number of reasons but primarily because the grade's no longer specified by car manufacturer's, replaced by the higher VI 5W-30.
The marginally higher FP and lower Noack is irrelevant.


VBG. I knew you'd say that. Let's agree to disagree.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
I'd still use the 10W30 against the manufacture's recommendation on car with DI in hot climate. I need as low a noack as I can get to reduce as much valve deposit as possible.

It has never been established that Noack is a factor in any way with regard to intake tract deposits.
If you want to minimize the role that motor oil plays in that regard you should choose an oil with a very low TEOST deposit level. The best that I'm aware of is Castrol Edge 5W-30.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Skid
Who says 10W-30 is obsolete... much better flash and Noack numbers than the 5W-30.

It's obsolete for a number of reasons but primarily because the grade's no longer specified by car manufacturer's, replaced by the higher VI 5W-30.
The marginally higher FP and lower Noack is irrelevant.


Actually, there are still plenty of cars on the road that specify 10W-30...
 
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Skid
Who says 10W-30 is obsolete... much better flash and Noack numbers than the 5W-30.

It's obsolete for a number of reasons but primarily because the grade's no longer specified by car manufacturer's, replaced by the higher VI 5W-30.
The marginally higher FP and lower Noack is irrelevant.


Actually, there are still plenty of cars on the road that specify 10W-30...


My Miata does, but I'm going to use 5w30.
 
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