marvel mystery oil

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Originally Posted By: Oilgal
ARX is a non hydrocarbon product, composed of organic esters


Umm... How's that? Non-hydrocarbon esters? Elaborate please.
 
Originally Posted By: Frank
Section 7 of MSDS of MMO.

SECTION XII - Ingredients/Identity Information
Ingredient # 01
Ingredient Name BENZENE, 1,2-DICHLORO-
CAS Number 95501
Percent 0
Ingredient # 02
Ingredient Name MINERAL SPIRITS
CAS Number 8052413
Percent 0
Ingredient # 03
Ingredient Name NAPTHENIC HYDROCARBONS
CAS Number 64742525

This is not Auto-Rx it does not do what Auto-Rx does. If you post here and don't know what these chemistrys do to oil ask.


With all do respect Frank I never said it was the same as ARX or cleaned the same as ARX. However MMO does clean an engine and keep it clean from the begining if used. Maybe someone that I know personally needs to show me in person how the two products compare when used. As many "old timers" do, when they get use to a product that has always worked for them and everyone they know, they stick with it unless they see first hand something else works as good or better. I have heard that ARX does wonders I have just never seen it first hand for myself.
 
Originally Posted By: nooil
Thanks everybody for your responses. Haven't decided for sure if I will try the MMO but your responses will help me decide. Thanks again


No problem anytime. Good luck.
 
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If ARX dissolves deposits then it does have solvent ability.


Well, no. MMO is a solvent. As I understand it, ARX, with its ester content, has an insatiable polar attraction to metal. I'm somewhat ignorant of the chemical mechanics ..but it surely appears to "displace" the deposits off of the metal and appears to have a chelating-like action to it. You don't see much difference in an ARX UOA to nearly the proportion of what has been removed from the engine. Surely a blip or two but most UOAs look not too far out there. If you use a Dyson analysis you can see changes in combustion efficiency and other indicators ..but elemental wear is not too effected in my observations.

Although I would not do it myself because I don't like introducing solvents into the engine, I'd say that IF you used MMO from near new that you may keep a clean engine ..but there's no two ways about it, you've altered the chemistry of the oil. OTOH, we've seen plenty of UOA to show that Auto-Rx doesn't alter visc or flash point ..or anything else .. and it won't breach some sludge layer in an aggressive manner exposing the sequestered mass to being bathed in the engine oil undermining the sludge structure (for those engines that have massive deposits).

Essentially, you can't use MMO without side effects to the oil. Whether that makes a difference in your usage is up for grabs. We've got some very fine oils out there with balanced add packs and whatnot and I'd rather not tamper with those properties if I can avoid it. I've already got to manage fuel dilution and air filtration as variables and I'd rather not add another introduced agent into the mix.

In a "flush" manner, I've tried MMO in the past and it was ineffective at fixing my annoying lingering start up lifter tick. This had plagued me for years. It was odd in that there was no immediate start up noise ..nor any when the oil was warm ..but shortly after start up, the valve train would cycle from ticking to silent .. back to clicking again until the oil got warm. This was indifferent to what visc oil you had in it. Synth or dino.. it didn't matter. I then said "what the heck ..let's see what this stuff does". It worked where all others had failed.

Now I've used MMO in fuel. I'm uncertain of its UCL properties ..but I do know that it does no harm as far as deposits or catalysts ..even in MASSIVE doses. It showed nothing but favorable (apparent - better starting, etc.) results in that usage. Terry seems to shy away from products that contain the main constituents of MMO ..but I haven't gotten the "fat" on why (not that I bothered to ask). He does, however, support the need for some perpetual add to fuel to add lubricity where there is none in todays fuels. He appears to prefer other products that have (perhaps) other benefits in terms of injector cleaning or whatnot.
 
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There are hundreds of stories about MMO freeing seized engines and they are still running today. Keeping valves clean. MMO can be used as a fogging agent for "stored" cars. Also it can be used to take the place of lead to cushion the valve seats more so they last longer on the unleaded fuels. I know the engines are designed to last on unleaded gases now-a-days but a little extra help never hurts. It's like they say...if it aint broken don't fix it. Stick with what has always worked for you and has been tried and tested for the past 84 years to work.
 
MMO is great in the fuel. 2-4 ounces/10 gallons fuel is normal. Lubes the fuel pump, injectors, valve guides, and rings/bore . Helps make a bit better seal on the valve seat.
Also is a mild cleaner for the system and combustion chamber.
I use it sometimes, or Lucas UCL or plain 2 stroke oil in the gas.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
If ARX dissolves deposits then it does have solvent ability.


Well, no. MMO is a solvent. As I understand it, ARX, with its ester content, has an insatiable polar attraction to metal. I'm somewhat ignorant of the chemical mechanics ..but it surely appears to "displace" the deposits off of the metal and appears to have a chelating-like action to it. You don't see much difference in an ARX UOA to nearly the proportion of what has been removed from the engine. Surely a blip or two but most UOAs look not too far out there. If you use a Dyson analysis you can see changes in combustion efficiency and other indicators ..but elemental wear is not too effected in my observations.

Although I would not do it myself because I don't like introducing solvents into the engine, I'd say that IF you used MMO from near new that you may keep a clean engine ..but there's no two ways about it, you've altered the chemistry of the oil. OTOH, we've seen plenty of UOA to show that Auto-Rx doesn't alter visc or flash point ..or anything else .. and it won't breach some sludge layer in an aggressive manner exposing the sequestered mass to being bathed in the engine oil undermining the sludge structure (for those engines that have massive deposits).

Essentially, you can't use MMO without side effects to the oil. Whether that makes a difference in your usage is up for grabs. We've got some very fine oils out there with balanced add packs and whatnot and I'd rather not tamper with those properties if I can avoid it. I've already got to manage fuel dilution and air filtration as variables and I'd rather not add another introduced agent into the mix.

In a "flush" manner, I've tried MMO in the past and it was ineffective at fixing my annoying lingering start up lifter tick. This had plagued me for years. It was odd in that there was no immediate start up noise ..nor any when the oil was warm ..but shortly after start up, the valve train would cycle from ticking to silent .. back to clicking again until the oil got warm. This was indifferent to what visc oil you had in it. Synth or dino.. it didn't matter. I then said "what the heck ..let's see what this stuff does". It worked where all others had failed.

Now I've used MMO in fuel. I'm uncertain of its UCL properties ..but I do know that it does no harm as far as deposits or catalysts ..even in MASSIVE doses. It showed nothing but favorable (apparent - better starting, etc.) results in that usage. Terry seems to shy away from products that contain the main constituents of MMO ..but I haven't gotten the "fat" on why (not that I bothered to ask). He does, however, support the need for some perpetual add to fuel to add lubricity where there is none in todays fuels. He appears to prefer other products that have (perhaps) other benefits in terms of injector cleaning or whatnot.


I agree with you Gary in some aspects. The only question I have it this. How could something be around for 84 years and hundreds if not thousands of "old school" engine builders and mechanics still use MMO to date, if it may harm the engine because it changes the oils chemistry? When I built drag engines for the strip, about 1 in every 5 race teams I worked with uesed it in their oil at 1/2 pint to about a 5-7 quart sump. I'm not saying it doesn't change the oil's chemistry, all I'm saying is for something to be a "snake oil" so to speak and be around for as long as MMO has been, it must be doing something right.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
MMO is great in the fuel. 2-4 ounces/10 gallons fuel is normal. Lubes the fuel pump, injectors, valve guides, and rings/bore . Helps make a bit better seal on the valve seat.
Also is a mild cleaner for the system and combustion chamber.
I use it sometimes, or Lucas UCL or plain 2 stroke oil in the gas.


I know you are talking about the fuel additive but a friend of mine has a 78 Firebird and he was going to work one day and developed a slight what he called a lifter tap. The next day he drained a quart of oil out (he only had about 1500 miles on his oil) and added 1 quart Lucas Oil Stabilizer. He drove the car to work the next day and the tap got louder and louder. About 10 miles from work he said the engine squealed and shut off. He always ran 10w-30 GTX and drove it like a baby. He is an older gentleman. IMO the Lucas was too thick and caused the engine to "starve" for oil in the critical parts. We pulled the engine out and we took it apart. The cause of the engine failure was 2 spun main rod bearings. Because of that, I don't use Lucas products myself but I know people that do and love them.
 
Originally Posted By: Oilgal
Originally Posted By: tackleberry625


If ARX dissolves deposits then it does have solvent ability.




It is not a solvent in the sense MMO and other hydrocarbon solvents are. ARX is a non hydrocarbon product, composed of organic esters, and it does not affect motor oil at all.

Comparing MMO to ARX is like comparing paint thinner to natural lanolin based saddle soap. Both will clean stuff off your saddle. The comparison stops right there though.

ARX actually clings to and embeds itself into motor oil deposits and carbon buildup. It then very slowly liquefies and emulsifies [encapsulates] deposits, to safely suspend them without blending it into your oil and changing it into something else. Your oil therefor remains unchanged, exactly as it is designed to be, for optimal lubrication cushioning and cooling. The emulsified [encapsulated and chemically isolated] deposits are then carried safely to your oil filter for removal.

That is far safer way to remove such crud. It doesn't just break chemical bonds responsible for surface adhesion as MMO and such do, breaking off big chunks which can and often do clog oil passages, and then just blend that soup of semi dissolved deposits and solvent with your oil, changing it into something else, thus radically diminishing it's ability to lubricate cushion and cool moving parts.

Lets face it. Just because something has been used for a very long time does not mean it is the best way to do things. Piston powered aircraft were the only thing in use for a long time, and they too were very reliable also. You can be sure that when jet engines became available, there were those who rejected that new tech also, and they used the same logic you used. Comparing MMO to ARX is like comparing a biplane to modern jet aircraft. Yes they both fly. Once again though the comparison stops right there.


Have you seen any proof using a UOA that MMO protects an engine any less than regular motor oil by itself. I'm not saying MMO does or does not change the chemical property of an oil, but does it change it for the good or bad? Have you seen 2 UOAs done, one using MMO combined with oil and the other using plan oil, under the same driving and weather conditions, same OCI and oil type? I have never seen this so I go with what has worked for mechancis over the past 84 years and what I have seen work first hand.
 
I don't think i have ever seen a better explanation of "Solvents" & Auto-Rx" relating to cleaning of metal.Excellent presentation.
 
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Judging from the MSDS it appears that MMO is little more than red colored mineral spirits with an aromatic smell. Benzene, mineral spirits & naphtha. Must be a real money maker.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Judging from the MSDS it appears that MMO is little more than red colored mineral spirits with an aromatic smell. Benzene, mineral spirits & naphtha. Must be a real money maker.


If you get a change, put a drop of MMO between two fingers and rub them together. MMO is very slick. Mineral Spirits alone is not and it will absorb into your skin. MS by itself is what people use to clean their hands with after painting.
 
Originally Posted By: Frank
I don't think i have ever seen a better explanation of "Solvents" & Auto-Rx" relating to cleaning of metal.Excellent presentation.


Frank, do not take what I am saying the wrong way. I am not saying MMO is better than ARX and I am not saying ARX is better than MMO and I am not saying the two products are the same. All I am saying is from my experiences with MMO; MMO has worked well for me and many other people I know. Just as ARX works well for you and the people you have introduced it to. If another product came out that claimed to do the same thing as ARX I am sure you would want to compare the two for yourself and see which one works better for your application.
 
Originally Posted By: tackleberry625
If you get a change, put a drop of MMO between two fingers and rub them together. MMO is very slick.

That is the naphthenic oil in the product: CAS 64742-52-5
It will oxidize quickly in an engine.

By adding this type of thing to engine oil, you are essentially trying to undo part of the refining process that the manufactures have conducted to give a better base oil. Refining Naphthenics and Aromatics out of oil is one of the things that yields Grp II and III products.
 
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Originally Posted By: tackleberry625
If you get a change, put a drop of MMO between two fingers and rub them together. MMO is very slick.

That is the naphthenic oil in the product: CAS 64742-52-5
It will oxidize quickly in an engine.

By adding this type of thing to engine oil, you are essentially trying to undo part of the refining process that the manufactures have conducted to give a better base oil. Refining Naphthenics and Aromatics out of oil is one of the things that yields Grp II and III products.


I may sound like an idiot but how do you know MMO will oxidize quickly in an engine based on the above info?
 
I just dipped into my gallon of Marvel Mystery Oil this past week again. I ended up getting a really bad tank of gas at the local gas station. The car would ping, stall, and I even had the gas line freeze. Must've had a ton of water in it or something. I poured a few ounces of MMO into the tank and that solved all the problems. I filled it with a tank of premium and put some isopropyl alcohol in the tank to get the last of the water out. I use MMO mostly in my gas, but I had a slight lifter tick in my Capri that I solved with a few ounces of MMO. The best thing about it is it smells really good compared to the rest of the stuff on the market. Works really good for cleaning oily car parts too!
 
I've never tried MMO in the crankcase, but I use 6 oz. of 2/3rd's MMO & 1/3 Lucas Upper Cylinder with every Chevron w/Techron fill-up. I don't know if there is any MPG increase, but I like the lubricating properties nonetheless. Our SX4 is the first car I ever tried this in. It's pretty economical to do, but a little inconvenient. I need to get a small bottle to make it easier.
 
Originally Posted By: ethangsmith
I just dipped into my gallon of Marvel Mystery Oil this past week again. I ended up getting a really bad tank of gas at the local gas station. The car would ping, stall, and I even had the gas line freeze. Must've had a ton of water in it or something. I poured a few ounces of MMO into the tank and that solved all the problems. I filled it with a tank of premium and put some isopropyl alcohol in the tank to get the last of the water out. I use MMO mostly in my gas, but I had a slight lifter tick in my Capri that I solved with a few ounces of MMO. The best thing about it is it smells really good compared to the rest of the stuff on the market. Works really good for cleaning oily car parts too!


YUP..good ole MMO to the rescue again. About the smell of it, I thought about dabbing it on my wrists and neck one night before I go clubbing........it will give me that extra wintergreen kick, lol
 
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