Manual transmission used daily

[GR_CoB]

I finally have the opportunity to take my time and move my CVT CR-V down the road however I am pretty lost for options in finding a good manual transmission drivers car. For me, power is of the least concern in a drivers car especially considering it will likely be front wheel drive.
Budget: $6000-,$10,000

Things that I need:
4 doors (suicide back doors acceptable)
2008 and newer
Below 100k miles

Things that I like:
Rust resistance
Hatchback/lift back (sedan acceptable but hatch preferred)

Things that I dislike:
Eurotrash
Rev hang
Heavy nose (audi, Subaru, v6 fwd cars)

I am fully versed with all mechanical repairs and will maintain the car myself. If manual transmission swaps are documented and known to be easy, reliable, factory like, and within budget they would be considered.
Other than that I am looking for a DAILY driver and not a project.
It might be occasionally autocrossed but being competitive/fast is not necessary.

The you for your guidance

I'd go with something like this:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1589650898621878/?mibextid=dXMIcH

Here is how it does on the track:

 

[edyvw]

Nice. Drop $1k right off the bat (plus time and sweat equity if DIY) into a $9k car just to have a shot at reliability. Does it require any specialty BMW tools for these jobs? Not bad for a Euro car I guess. Is xDrive reliable on these, or fails as often as on manual BMW X3, where many choose to do a RWD conversion rather than properly repair the xDrive due to cost? And if xDrive survives, are these still a subject to the common oil pan leak where most of the drive line needs to come out for the repair of that? Honest questions, just wondering and trying to expand my Euro knowledge.

Any car at 100k requires investment. You can pretend that leaky strut on Toyota is not an issue, but then you find out later like my neighbor, that that neglect costs $4000.
I had $2000 in repairs for 2009 Honda Plot between 100-110k miles.
I own 328xDrive. I daily, i go to ski, I take my kids to school and daycare, i track it.
I also own 2018 Sequoia, which I drive when we do road trips or all 5 of us is in the car. Why I don’t drive Sequoia as daily or go to ski etc? Bcs. one is BMW, another is not.
Most things on this car is done bcs. I wanted, not bcs. it was needed. Only thing that I needed to do in the last 80k is TPMS module (and even that I could code out).

Thread 'I am done with my BMW updates ...'

Jun 28, 2023

Upgrades that is

So, I got this BMW E90 328 xDrive with 6-speed manual in December 2019. I was looking specifically E90 with N52 (last naturally aspirated I6 engine that BMW had). I had several criteria:
1. Must be manual.
2. Must have below 100k.
3. LCI (updated, so not older than 2009).
4. No iDrive.
5. HiD lights.
6. Sports package.
7. xDrive bcs. I would take it to ski.

So, after looking for a year since I got rid of X5 for Sienna, I found one in DC with 84,000 miles, flew there, and drove it back in two days to CO.

The first purchase was 16" wheels with Continental...

• edyvw
• Replies: 99
• Forum: Vehicles

• 
• 

 

[GR_CoB]

Any car at 100k requires investment. You can pretend that leaky strut on Toyota is not an issue, but then you find out later like my neighbor, that that neglect costs $4000.
I had $2000 in repairs for 2009 Honda Plot between 100-110k miles.
I own 328xDrive. I daily, i go to ski, I take my kids to school and daycare, i track it.
I also own 2018 Sequoia, which I drive when we do road trips or all 5 of us is in the car. Why I don’t drive Sequoia as daily or go to ski etc? Bcs. one is BMW, another is not.
Most things on this car is done bcs. I wanted, not bcs. it was needed. Only thing that I needed to do in the last 80k is TPMS module (and even that I could code out).

Thread 'I am done with my BMW updates ...'

Jun 28, 2023

Upgrades that is

So, I got this BMW E90 328 xDrive with 6-speed manual in December 2019. I was looking specifically E90 with N52 (last naturally aspirated I6 engine that BMW had). I had several criteria:
1. Must be manual.
2. Must have below 100k.
3. LCI (updated, so not older than 2009).
4. No iDrive.
5. HiD lights.
6. Sports package.
7. xDrive bcs. I would take it to ski.

So, after looking for a year since I got rid of X5 for Sienna, I found one in DC with 84,000 miles, flew there, and drove it back in two days to CO.

The first purchase was 16" wheels with Continental...

• edyvw
• Replies: 99
• Forum: Vehicles

• 
• 

Doesn't answer my questions, but ok. I guess I'll keep enjoying my 2008 Infiniti EX35. So far for $3.2k it required zero investments at 150k miles. And if it needs any investments in next 10k-50k-150k miles, then my basic mechanic tool kit has all I need to tackle any job.

 

[edyvw]

Doesn't answer my questions, but ok. I guess I'll keep enjoying my 2008 Infiniti EX35. So far for $3.2k it required zero investments at 150k miles. And if it needs any investments in next 10k-50k-150k miles, then my basic mechanic tool kit has all I need to tackle any job.

I forwarded you link.
But, glad to know Infinity is benchmark for reliability.
He wants manual, that is not heavy in nose, no rust issues and somehow poster child for failed transmissions is an answer.

 

[GR_CoB]

I forwarded you link.
But, glad to know Infinity is benchmark for reliability.
He wants manual, that is not heavy in nose, no rust issues and somehow poster child for failed transmissions is an answer.

You sure you're not referring to CVT in QX60?
To the best of my knowledge both the 7AT and 6MT are known of reaching high miles. School me if I'm wrong, I'm always open to learning something new. But 7AT lives a long happy life with basic drain & fill. Obviously neglecting fluid changes will kill it like any other automatic. And the 6MT is just annoying due to rev-hang, but reliably reaches high mileage even when used in forced induction applications. Occasional bad batch of slave cylinders was the weak point, but not the transmission. Although the older CD009 is a better unit IMHO.

 

[Michigangster]

I finally have the opportunity to take my time and move my CVT CR-V down the road however I am pretty lost for options in finding a good manual transmission drivers car. For me, power is of the least concern in a drivers car especially considering it will likely be front wheel drive.
Budget: $6000-,$10,000

Things that I need:
4 doors (suicide back doors acceptable)
2008 and newer
Below 100k miles

Things that I like:
Rust resistance
Hatchback/lift back (sedan acceptable but hatch preferred)

Things that I dislike:
Eurotrash
Rev hang
Heavy nose (audi, Subaru, v6 fwd cars)

I am fully versed with all mechanical repairs and will maintain the car myself. If manual transmission swaps are documented and known to be easy, reliable, factory like, and within budget they would be considered.
Other than that I am looking for a DAILY driver and not a project.
It might be occasionally autocrossed but being competitive/fast is not necessary.

The you for your guidance

Fiesta ST or Focus ST. Get one from a state that doesn't salt the roads and coat the underbody.

 

[edyvw]

You sure you're not referring to CVT in QX60?
To the best of my knowledge both the 7AT and 6MT are known of reaching high miles. School me if I'm wrong, I'm always open to learning something new. But 7AT lives a long happy life with basic drain & fill. Obviously neglecting fluid changes will kill it like any other automatic. And the 6MT is just annoying due to rev-hang, but reliably reaches high mileage even when used in forced induction applications. Occasional bad batch of slave cylinders was the weak point, but not the transmission. Although the older CD009 is a better unit IMHO.

And how does that fit into the criteria?
To me, it seems you are looking for confirmation bias about your choices than about what OP wants, on any topic.

 

[GR_CoB]

And how does that fit into the criteria?
To me, it seems you are looking for confirmation bias about your choices than about what OP wants, on any topic.

You're very good at pushing your views and beliefs down every opposing throat, while avoiding questions on topic. A politician by any chance?

 

[edyvw]

You're very good at pushing your views and beliefs down every opposing throat, while avoiding questions on topic. A politician by any chance?

Views and beliefs? I wrote to a person what to do, drive the same car. As far as I am concerned, he can buy himself a Lada Riva.
Enjoy Nissan, or as someone mentioned recently, the mediocrity.

 

[GR_CoB]

Views and beliefs? I wrote to a person what to do, drive the same car. As far as I am concerned, he can buy himself a Lada Riva.
Enjoy Nissan, or as someone mentioned recently, the mediocrity.

Napoleon rode a high horse, Jesus rode a donkey.

 

[02SE]

Any car at 100k requires investment. You can pretend that leaky strut on Toyota is not an issue, but then you find out later like my neighbor, that that neglect costs $4000.

I haven't followed the thread, but I was curious how a leaky strut becomes a $4000.00 repair?

 

[edyvw]

I haven't followed the thread, but I was curious how a leaky strut becomes a $4000.00 repair?

I mentioned this before. She basically drove care until every single piece of suspension fell apart. I could hear her coming home with her Sienna from 50 yards away. Tried once to draw her attention to issues, by asking her how she likes the car, and she said: "best car I ever had, never had an issue."
I think she eventually could not do alignment bcs. everything basically fell apart.
Struts, shocks, control arms, etc. The best car ever. You just have to ignore issues.

 

[Oliveoil2]

2010-13 Honda Fit. I have a 12 with a manual 5 speed. I bought it with 20k and it’s now over 158k. I needed inexpensive reliable transportation. Tires, fluids, front brakes, plugs and filters. A valve adjustment too. But a mazda3 is a good second choice.

 

[wd6681]

2010-13 Honda Fit. I have a 12 with a manual 5 speed. I bought it with 20k and it’s now over 158k. I needed inexpensive reliable transportation. Tires, fluids, front brakes, plugs and filters. A valve adjustment too. But a mazda3 is a good second choice.

I like these fits best as they are made in Japan plus the best looking fits. They can be hard to find with a manual and low miles (good sign that owners enjoy them!). Do you drive yours long distance? I have driven junk so I am pretty easy to please but another part of my wonders if stepping up to a civic would be a better car with the miles I drive. However this really is near the top as it is like a mini I once had but has 4 doors and is not hot garbage.

 

[Oliveoil2]

I like these fits best as they are made in Japan plus the best looking fits. They can be hard to find with a manual and low miles (good sign that owners enjoy them!). Do you drive yours long distance? I have driven junk so I am pretty easy to please but another part of my wonders if stepping up to a civic would be a better car with the miles I drive. However this really is near the top as it is like a mini I once had but has 4 doors and is not hot garbage.

Ive driven 2–3k mile trips and it’s fine. It’s plenty comfortable with A/C and cruise. Yet it’s not a quiet car at speed. But that wasn’t a concern of mine. I just wanted economical function and reliability!

 

[IndyIan]

A Focus up to 2007 has a throttle cable! I prefer the 04-07 duratecs. A mazda3 2.0 of the same era is a great little drivers car, the trick for them is to find one without too much rust, but just wait and watch one to pop up and then grab it.

 

[skyactiv]

My wife had a Mazda3 with a manual transmission and Skyactiv engine, which is how I came up with my username. It handled very good and a set of good summer or UHP all-season tires would make it even better.

The paint doesn't match on the front right door on that BMW in the link.

 

[IndyIan]

Fiesta ST or Focus ST. Get one from a state that doesn't salt the roads and coat the underbody.

Eh, they seem to blow engines? I don't recall there being too much rev hang in the regular 2012 Focus I test drove, but that was a long time ago. The 12-18 Focus is a nice car to drive, with the manual. I might've got the 2012 but it was leaking oil from the AC compressor and the dealer wouldn't fix it as part of the deal, so no deal.

 

[pbm]

I had a 2016 Focus. I really liked it except for one reason, the calamity that was the DSP6 automatic, it would get upper 30s mpg but it needed a clutch way to early (like many of them did) and it was a couple thousand dollar job. I would absolutely go buy one if it were a manual. I'm partial to hatchbacks over sedans.

If you want to autocross, look at the ST or RS versions, however, previous owners habits will be more relevant with the turbo, etc.

When I bought my new 2014 Focus I specifically bought a 5 speed manual.I t's been one of the most (if not the most) reliable cars I've ever owned. I've driven 'stick' for over 50 years and I have to say that driving in today's stop and go traffic can be a PITA. I'm now retired so I don't have to deal with it as much thankfully. TGeo has said similar comments about his 2013 Focus 5 speed. If you can find one they are great.

 

[johnmyster]

Normally, but OP said needs to have decent rust resistance. They don't normally fair too well with salt and corrosion.

Shame that Mazda3 owners can't be bothered to buy two cans of fluid film each fall.