Manual transmission used daily

Joined
Jul 6, 2009
Messages
13
Location
NY
I finally have the opportunity to take my time and move my CVT CR-V down the road however I am pretty lost for options in finding a good manual transmission drivers car. For me, power is of the least concern in a drivers car especially considering it will likely be front wheel drive.
Budget: $6000-,$10,000

Things that I need:
4 doors (suicide back doors acceptable)
2008 and newer
Below 100k miles

Things that I like:
Rust resistance
Hatchback/lift back (sedan acceptable but hatch preferred)

Things that I dislike:
Eurotrash
Rev hang
Heavy nose (audi, Subaru, v6 fwd cars)

I am fully versed with all mechanical repairs and will maintain the car myself. If manual transmission swaps are documented and known to be easy, reliable, factory like, and within budget they would be considered.
Other than that I am looking for a DAILY driver and not a project.
It might be occasionally autocrossed but being competitive/fast is not necessary.

The you for your guidance
 
I had a 2016 Focus. I really liked it except for one reason, the calamity that was the DSP6 automatic, it would get upper 30s mpg but it needed a clutch way to early (like many of them did) and it was a couple thousand dollar job. I would absolutely go buy one if it were a manual. I'm partial to hatchbacks over sedans.

If you want to autocross, look at the ST or RS versions, however, previous owners habits will be more relevant with the turbo, etc.
 
The Mazda cars are solid, if salt is as big a concern as it seems I'm sure you are treating the underside anyway.
 
Mazda 3 has been suggested and I am told that '12 plus has seen an improvement in rust resistance. One hold up for me is the premium they trade relative to a focus (also on my list) and that a 'J' vin hatchback can be hard to find. What's the opinion on build quality especially sheet metal on the most recent focus'? I also am considering a 9th Gen civic as they are 2600lb. Unless an excellent example can be found I will in general steer away from sport models such as Si or ST. A non turbo Si would be excellent however good examples are few and far between.
Thankyou!
 
A clean, rust free MT vehicle, 2008+ with under 100K miles, no euro, no Subaru, etc. $8-10K. This a reach IMO.

I have no idea what you're left with other than the Mazda 3, Honda Civic as stated above. Possibly a Honda Fit or a Nissan Versa base model sedan? Also as said, they're all likely to have rev-hang.
 
A clean, rust free MT vehicle, 2008+ with under 100K miles, no euro, no Subaru, etc. $8-10K. This a reach IMO.

I have no idea what you're left with other than the Mazda 3, Honda Civic as stated above. Possibly a Honda Fit or a Nissan Versa base model sedan? Also as said, they're all likely to have rev-hang.
Completely agree, it's also a dislike rather than a deal breaker. The only deal breaker is a BMW which is too long of a story. I dislike eurotrash but if the opinion is X VW is the least VW ever, I might consider it. Same goes for revhang, as all modern cars will have it, just some more than others. I have heard that some coding is possible on Subarus to remove, interested in the possibilities for others. Again, as everyone has stated, no car will meet all of this criteria without some compromise.
You can tell me that's stupid you should try _____. I just will have varying sized grains of salt with everything =)
 
...I have heard that some coding is possible on Subarus to remove, interested in the possibilities for others. Again, as everyone has stated, no car will meet all of this criteria without some compromise.
You can tell me that's stupid you should try _____. I just will have varying sized grains of salt with everything =)

My 2014 Subaru Crosstrek (back when they were called the XV Crosstrek), was a base model with the 5MT. I bought it brand new. I had driven mostly MT cars, pickups and SUVs all my driving life up to that point. That particular 5MT was so bad (to me), it soured me completely on the idea of owning another for DD use. Heavy rev hang, too tall a first gear, way too notchy of a gear select, poor clutch pedal placement and a weird, non-linear clutch engagement.
 
'17 Accord 6MT, 2.4L, 500 miles on a tank on highway, quiet. Handling? Does my daily commute and road trips.

You can get newer with 2.0L turbo but other things change (some body shape, LED headlights that don't melt snow/ice). I found that at least in the automatic loaner I had the center console was wider and hit my knee where I had surgery and just rubbed a lot. Hated it.

accord clean3lp.webp

accord trim1.webp


My '17
accord knee 2.webp


I think a '22
accord knee.webp
 
When I was shopping and got the Accord my first choice was actually a Mazda 6 but was just outside my price range. That was also 6MT in the Soul Red color.

A little more $$ but Chevy Cruze?
1751393062491.webp


You said no Euro but there was many Jetta's, a couple Passat, GTI 4 door. all on Cars.com

Mini Cooper Clubman All4 has some. Kia Forte's, Kia Soul, Hyundai Elantra (and Touring)
 
Last edited:
I wanted to be an astronaut and was convinced I will be. It turns out, it was impossible.
Get yourself this:
I thought you would like this Used 2011 BMW 328i xDrive Sedan for $8999 on Autotrader http://atcm.co/S2PVDP/2C229057.

Invest $1000 in new hoses, coolant reservoir , mickey mouse flange (alu), new water pump, OFHG, change struts and shocks (Bilstein B4 will go around $250 for all for corners, B6 would be better but you are looking $650).
You are good until 200k and no rust in sight.
 
I finally have the opportunity to take my time and move my CVT CR-V down the road however I am pretty lost for options in finding a good manual transmission drivers car. For me, power is of the least concern in a drivers car especially considering it will likely be front wheel drive.
Budget: $6000-,$10,000

Things that I need:
4 doors (suicide back doors acceptable)
2008 and newer
Below 100k miles

Things that I like:
Rust resistance
Hatchback/lift back (sedan acceptable but hatch preferred)

Things that I dislike:
Eurotrash
Rev hang
Heavy nose (audi, Subaru, v6 fwd cars)

I am fully versed with all mechanical repairs and will maintain the car myself. If manual transmission swaps are documented and known to be easy, reliable, factory like, and within budget they would be considered.
Other than that I am looking for a DAILY driver and not a project.
It might be occasionally autocrossed but being competitive/fast is not necessary.

The you for your guidance
Civic Sedan.
 
I wanted to be an astronaut and was convinced I will be. It turns out, it was impossible.
Get yourself this:
I thought you would like this Used 2011 BMW 328i xDrive Sedan for $8999 on Autotrader http://atcm.co/S2PVDP/2C229057.

Invest $1000 in new hoses, coolant reservoir , mickey mouse flange (alu), new water pump, OFHG, change struts and shocks (Bilstein B4 will go around $250 for all for corners, B6 would be better but you are looking $650).
You are good until 200k and no rust in sight.
Nice. Drop $1k right off the bat (plus time and sweat equity if DIY) into a $9k car just to have a shot at reliability. Does it require any specialty BMW tools for these jobs? Not bad for a Euro car I guess. Is xDrive reliable on these, or fails as often as on manual BMW X3, where many choose to do a RWD conversion rather than properly repair the xDrive due to cost? And if xDrive survives, are these still a subject to the common oil pan leak where most of the drive line needs to come out for the repair of that? Honest questions, just wondering and trying to expand my Euro knowledge.
 
Back
Top Bottom