Good that there is a service history
I'd still drop the ATF pan for filter change, magnet cleaning, and verify 4 magnets.
And, consider changing the coolant thermostat and cap.
Problem with ATF fluid exchange is they are too lazy to drop pan and change filter.
Problem with coolant flush is that they ignored the thermostat and rad cap.
You'll get another 50k+ easily out of the serpentine belt. So, inspect it regularly and change again when there is an issue.
Sparkplugs... they are done, no CEL's or misfires.... so keep driving on them for 100k miles since their replacement date.
Brakes are for inspection. If rust belt, clean/lube could be more often. And, bleeding every few years is smart too.
Weak brake can sometimes be cured with a good bleed. But, most likely, the car might have pathetic pads. So, that expense is on you if you want new rotors and pads. Toyota brakes tend to be ol' fart numb and boring. The best pads, braided lines, best rotors, best bleeding and the brakes can be still 'boring' but might respond a little better. One of my Toyotas is loaded with EBC yellows(**** good pad), another with Raybestos EHTs(ton of pad for the cheap price), and another with Akebono ASP pads(since the proact's were numb and boring like OE).
Someone who owned the car before took pretty good care of it.
I'd still drop the ATF pan for filter change, magnet cleaning, and verify 4 magnets.
And, consider changing the coolant thermostat and cap.
Problem with ATF fluid exchange is they are too lazy to drop pan and change filter.
Problem with coolant flush is that they ignored the thermostat and rad cap.
You'll get another 50k+ easily out of the serpentine belt. So, inspect it regularly and change again when there is an issue.
Sparkplugs... they are done, no CEL's or misfires.... so keep driving on them for 100k miles since their replacement date.
Brakes are for inspection. If rust belt, clean/lube could be more often. And, bleeding every few years is smart too.
Weak brake can sometimes be cured with a good bleed. But, most likely, the car might have pathetic pads. So, that expense is on you if you want new rotors and pads. Toyota brakes tend to be ol' fart numb and boring. The best pads, braided lines, best rotors, best bleeding and the brakes can be still 'boring' but might respond a little better. One of my Toyotas is loaded with EBC yellows(**** good pad), another with Raybestos EHTs(ton of pad for the cheap price), and another with Akebono ASP pads(since the proact's were numb and boring like OE).
Someone who owned the car before took pretty good care of it.