maintenance parts/fluid recommendations for 12' toyota camry se 2.5L L4

[jalikaria24]

hey all i recently got a 2012 camry se, runs and drives good. has the 2.5l l4 engine. gotta do some maintnenace now so wondering what you recommend for me to do at this mileage with recommendation on parts. its got 130,000 miles on it

1. already got the info on plugs so gonna do that
2. power steering is apparently electric so i doubt any maintenance for that
3. tranny fluid pan drop etc? any recommendations on which fluid
4. any air filter is good? or need a certain brand
5. coolant drain/flush or nah?
6. fuel filter? or nah?
7. i know the pads are done for, not sure about rotor health. i guess better to swap both? looking for recommended pads and rotors
8. should the brake fluid be fine or do i need to change?
9. anything im missing at this mileage?

much appreciated for help!


thanks!!

 

[Passport1]

1. Denso,3 (maxlife ATF)4, (Denso),5.Asian car coolant,6.Forgeddaboutit, 7 (Akebono) 8 maybe, 9 inspect and clean between seats for french fries.

 

[Leo99]

1. already got the info on plugs so gonna do that DENSO or NGK
2. power steering is apparently electric so i doubt any maintenance for that N/A
3. tranny fluid pan drop etc? any recommendations on which fluid I would not drop the pan. Just a drain and fill. Look on YouTube for a tutorial.
4. any air filter is good? or need a certain brand I use any brand.
5. coolant drain/flush or nah? The factory fill is good for 10 years/100k miles so drain and fill should be all you need.
6. fuel filter? or nah? Nah. I think it's part of the fuel pump under the backseat.
7. i know the pads are done for, not sure about rotor health. i guess better to swap both? looking for recommended pads and rotors. Where are you located? I have rotors and Toyota pads for my 2015 Camry that might fit your car. I can give them to you but I'm not shipping them.
8. should the brake fluid be fine or do i need to change? If you're doing the brakes, might as well drain some fluid out and replace it as part of the bleeding process.
9. anything im missing at this mileage? Cabin air filter, check the spare tire, check the battery

 

[supton]

Had an '11 for years, albeit in stick. Got rid of after 236k.

I think when I did pads and rotors I simply went OEM, figured they had worked for 120+k, they can do a repeat performance. Which they did.

ATF is likely a "complicated" procedure to properly change, but some do drain and fills, just adding the same amount that they drain. IMO I'd rather do a full flush in general, through a cooler line. There should be how-to's somewhere on the web. I believe as a "sealed" transmission the checking of the fluid level will be the hardest part. I'm not sure the trans cares, some like Maxlife and some will argue for nothing but WS. If it was me, I'd probably go Maxlife.

I just drained the radiator a couple of times and refilled with OEM pink coolant. Drain and fill, and top off the overflow. Couple days later top off the tank. I think I did that 2 or 3 times over the years.

Never touched the fuel filter. Cabin filter once a year or so, air filter not as often as I should have (car didn't care), Walmart's best 5W30 on 5k OCI's at the end with an OEM filter (used to buy by the case off Amazon or ebay). Brake fluid change a few times, easy with a vacuum pump during tire rotation.

Maybe check the battery, if it's original it's got to be getting tired by now. That was the only real problem I had with mine, the battery terminal kept getting corroded and I'd try some baking soda on it every couple of years--never failed to work mind you, just didn't like very healthy.

 

[Rand]

I was wondering what country had a 12ft camry .

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Maxlife is a good choice for ATF. You do not need to drop the pan or replace the filter because Toyota is smart enough to include a drain plug

You don't need any certain brand of air filter. Walmart's ST air filters are made in the US by Champ and are a good price, so that would be my choice.

It's probably time to drain the coolant now. Good coolants for your Camry include Pentofrost A4, Zerex Asian Red, or Peak OET Red. Walmart's ST Asian is OK to use if it's the new one from Recochem (it will say Made in Canada). If you don't already have one, get the Lisle coolant funnel. It makes the job so easy.

Most modern cars now have the fuel filter in the tank with the pump, so no need to replace it.

You might as well replace the rotors with the pads. The best coated rotors are the Powerstop Geomet coated ones. Another good choice is Raybestos Element3 (part number ending in -FZN). They seem to be the exact same as the Powerstop. For pads, Akebono is always a solid choice, and so are the Raybestos E3 EHT pads. Outside Rock Auto, EBC Ultimax2 pads work very well.

You should also replace the cabin filter. Wix XP/Napa Platinum/Purolator Boss/Mann FP is a great choice. If you can find it, Mahle CareMetix is also good.

 

[jalikaria24]

Maxlife is a good choice for ATF. You do not need to drop the pan or replace the filter because Toyota is smart enough to include a drain plug

You don't need any certain brand of air filter. Walmart's ST air filters are made in the US by Champ and are a good price, so that would be my choice.

It's probably time to drain the coolant now. Good coolants for your Camry include Pentofrost A4, Zerex Asian Red, or Peak OET Red. Walmart's ST Asian is OK to use if it's the new one from Recochem (it will say Made in Canada). If you don't already have one, get the Lisle coolant funnel. It makes the job so easy.

Most modern cars now have the fuel filter in the tank with the pump, so no need to replace it.

You might as well replace the rotors with the pads. The best coated rotors are the Powerstop Geomet coated ones. Another good choice is Raybestos Element3 (part number ending in -FZN). They seem to be the exact same as the Powerstop. For pads, Akebono is always a solid choice, and so are the Raybestos E3 EHT pads. Outside Rock Auto, EBC Ultimax2 pads work very well.

You should also replace the cabin filter. Wix XP/Napa Platinum/Purolator Boss/Mann FP is a great choice. If you can find it, Mahle CareMetix is also good.

thanks so much!

 

[jalikaria24]

Maxlife is a good choice for ATF. You do not need to drop the pan or replace the filter because Toyota is smart enough to include a drain plug

You don't need any certain brand of air filter. Walmart's ST air filters are made in the US by Champ and are a good price, so that would be my choice.

It's probably time to drain the coolant now. Good coolants for your Camry include Pentofrost A4, Zerex Asian Red, or Peak OET Red. Walmart's ST Asian is OK to use if it's the new one from Recochem (it will say Made in Canada). If you don't already have one, get the Lisle coolant funnel. It makes the job so easy.

Most modern cars now have the fuel filter in the tank with the pump, so no need to replace it.

You might as well replace the rotors with the pads. The best coated rotors are the Powerstop Geomet coated ones. Another good choice is Raybestos Element3 (part number ending in -FZN). They seem to be the exact same as the Powerstop. For pads, Akebono is always a solid choice, and so are the Raybestos E3 EHT pads. Outside Rock Auto, EBC Ultimax2 pads work very well.

You should also replace the cabin filter. Wix XP/Napa Platinum/Purolator Boss/Mann FP is a great choice. If you can find it, Mahle CareMetix is also good.

any idea if i need to do the transmission fluid change at 130k miles? or can i wait etc? thx

 

[slacktide_bitog]

any idea if i need to do the transmission fluid change at 130k miles? or can i wait etc? thx

You might as well do it now, especially if you don't know the history of whether the transmission has ever gotten a fluid change before.

It is very easy. Do the job with the transmission cold, like in the morning before you start the car for the first time that day. Measure what comes out, and refill with the same amount that you drained.

 

[jalikaria24]

Maxlife is a good choice for ATF. You do not need to drop the pan or replace the filter because Toyota is smart enough to include a drain plug

You don't need any certain brand of air filter. Walmart's ST air filters are made in the US by Champ and are a good price, so that would be my choice.

It's probably time to drain the coolant now. Good coolants for your Camry include Pentofrost A4, Zerex Asian Red, or Peak OET Red. Walmart's ST Asian is OK to use if it's the new one from Recochem (it will say Made in Canada). If you don't already have one, get the Lisle coolant funnel. It makes the job so easy.

Most modern cars now have the fuel filter in the tank with the pump, so no need to replace it.

You might as well replace the rotors with the pads. The best coated rotors are the Powerstop Geomet coated ones. Another good choice is Raybestos Element3 (part number ending in -FZN). They seem to be the exact same as the Powerstop. For pads, Akebono is always a solid choice, and so are the Raybestos E3 EHT pads. Outside Rock Auto, EBC Ultimax2 pads work very well.

You should also replace the cabin filter. Wix XP/Napa Platinum/Purolator Boss/Mann FP is a great choice. If you can find it, Mahle CareMetix is also good.

ty sorry to beat a dead horse, i found all the availability for pads and rotors,
seems like element 3 coated rotors are the best priced so ill go with those, if you are in my shoes would you pair this rotor with akebono pro act, asp, or the element 3.

At first i was gonna order the element 3 rotors with the proacts cuz i drive safelty etc, but then I noticed the ASP are only a few $ more, but then I noticed maybe it would be better to pair the raybestos element 3 pads with the element 3 rotors.

In my shoes what would you go with?

thanks!!

 

[slacktide_bitog]

ty sorry to beat a dead horse, i found all the availability for pads and rotors,
seems like element 3 coated rotors are the best priced so ill go with those, if you are in my shoes would you pair this rotor with akebono pro act, asp, or the element 3.

At first i was gonna order the element 3 rotors with the proacts cuz i drive safelty etc, but then I noticed the ASP are only a few $ more, but then I noticed maybe it would be better to pair the raybestos element 3 pads with the element 3 rotors.

In my shoes what would you go with?

thanks!!

All of those are good options. The Raybestos E3 pads are well-liked on here and are probably the lowest price.

 

[Greasymechtech]

3. with new OE Toyota ATF filter/gasket and verify 4 magnets on pan. If only 2, add 2 more magnets. Any full synthetic LV ws-equivalent fluid can be used. Nothing wrong with dealer sourced ATF too.

4. any name brand air filter is good... just verify fit and seal.

5. simple radiator and bottle, coolant drain/refill, with any 50:50 Toyota or aftermarket equivalent reddish/pinkish coolant. I'd also use a new OE thermostat and radiator cap.

7,8 brake fluid should be bled with your brake job. I'd consider a few siphon/refills of the master cylinder prior to starting brake job so that you'll have clean brake fluid when your start your bleed.

Serpentine belt

PCV valve

Throttle body cleaning and PEA based fuel system cleaner, and obviously toptier fuel when available.

Verify all vacuum and coolant hoses are good. Might have to trim cracked ends of some vacuum hoses.

 

[jalikaria24]

3. with new OE Toyota ATF filter/gasket and verify 4 magnets on pan. If only 2, add 2 more magnets. Any full synthetic LV ws-equivalent fluid can be used. Nothing wrong with dealer sourced ATF too.

4. any name brand air filter is good... just verify fit and seal.

5. simple radiator and bottle, coolant drain/refill, with any 50:50 Toyota or aftermarket equivalent reddish/pinkish coolant. I'd also use a new OE thermostat and radiator cap.

7,8 brake fluid should be bled with your brake job. I'd consider a few siphon/refills of the master cylinder prior to starting brake job so that you'll have clean brake fluid when your start your bleed.

Serpentine belt

PCV valve

Throttle body cleaning and PEA based fuel system cleaner, and obviously toptier fuel when available.

Verify all vacuum and coolant hoses are good. Might have to trim cracked ends of some vacuum hoses.

check serp belt and pcv valve or just replace now?

 

[Greasymechtech]

10 years... 130k miles... just replace. Either failure can trash the engine and/or leave you stranded. They are maintenance items often forgotten by owner's manual's techwriters.

 

[jalikaria24]

I am back again! sorry to bother since the car was used, i had a brain fart and thought it wasn't maintained well, I called Toyota and got service records seems like the following was done. Currently got 133k miles

Spark plugs replaced at 106k miles
Coolant flush at 87k miles
Throttle body was cleaned regularly
Serpentine Belt replaced at 77k miles
Transmission fluid exchange at 82k miles

Knowing this for me now, I guess no need to do plugs, coolant, belt, or tranny fluid? Or is it still good to do one of these?

Im thinking of getting brakes done cuz I know mine feel weak, Pcv valve, air filter and cabin filter

Anything else I should do or is the car maintained enough for the near future?

Thanks!

 

[supton]

Coolant is 5yr/50k after that first flush, it won't hurt to do again--but it's no priority, it could wait a year or even two. It's not going to strand you, that's for sure.

The rest of the list is fine, just do in a year or two. Well, air and cabin filters are easy to change, and cabin is likely overdue, so I'd do that first, followed by the air filter.

If the brakes feel weak however then I'd do them. Without driving it I'm not sure how they feel weak. I have had issues in my climate with pads freezing to the caliper and not sliding; maybe you have really bad rotors or something, or seized calipers. Regardless: if you think they are sub-par, by all means, get them looked into. Failing to stop in time will completely negate any other maintence you might have done.

 

[Traction]

The Original brake pads and rotors on my 12 Camry made it 175,000 miles, so I put OE brakes back on and should be good until 350,000 miles.

 

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

1. already got the info on plugs so gonna do that I hope they are OEM Denso Numbers. Not NGK

2. power steering is apparently electric so i doubt any maintenance for that 10-4

3. tranny fluid pan drop etc? any recommendations on which fluid I use Amsoil's OE Trans Fluid for Toyotas. I would be fine with Toyota WS, Amsoil or Valvoline Maxlife

4. any air filter is good? or need a certain brand I would use Toyota OEM or Wix

5. coolant drain/flush or nah? Yes. Use nothing but Toyota coolant.

6. fuel filter? or nah? Nope

7. i know the pads are done for, not sure about rotor health. i guess better to swap both? looking for recommended pads and rotors Use Toyota OEM pads and Rotors, make sure you get new shims because I'm pretty sure someone threw the OEM away. Get new hardware and boots as well.

8. should the brake fluid be fine or do i need to change? Yes, flush the brake fluid. Use a new quart of DOT3

9. anything im missing at this mileage? I'd check the ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. Wipers, washer fluid, check all lights/bulbs, inside and out.

 

[Nick1994]

1. already got the info on plugs so gonna do that I hope they are OEM Denso Numbers. Not NGK

2. power steering is apparently electric so i doubt any maintenance for that 10-4

3. tranny fluid pan drop etc? any recommendations on which fluid I use Amsoil's OE Trans Fluid for Toyotas. I would be fine with Toyota WS, Amsoil or Valvoline Maxlife

4. any air filter is good? or need a certain brand I would use Toyota OEM or Wix

5. coolant drain/flush or nah? Yes. Use nothing but Toyota coolant.

6. fuel filter? or nah? Nope

7. i know the pads are done for, not sure about rotor health. i guess better to swap both? looking for recommended pads and rotors Use Toyota OEM pads and Rotors, make sure you get new shims because I'm pretty sure someone threw the OEM away. Get new hardware and boots as well.

8. should the brake fluid be fine or do i need to change? Yes, flush the brake fluid. Use a new quart of DOT3

9. anything im missing at this mileage? I'd check the ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. Wipers, washer fluid, check all lights/bulbs, inside and out.

This.

But probably the most forgiving car on the planet.

 

[Donald]

Brakes should be done when they need doing. So look at the pad thickness. All should be close. If any are way different then do the pads regardless. Pads and rotors. Coated rotors in rust belt.

Akebino ProAct are my favorite. Rotors I am less picky. Wagner E-coated is what I have been using.