2018 Forester 2.5L 70k miles: PM Suggestions?

[badtlc]

So this is my first subaru and I have had it since Nov of 2018. I have replaced the front/rear differential oil at about 20k miles and that is pretty much it. I'm used to cars not really needing anything but oil changes until 100k miles. Is that pretty common for the forester 2.5L too? Are there any items that should be addressed before 100k miles?

Thanks.

PS: I will be replacing all brake pads, rotors and brake fluid this summer.

 

[IndyIan]

CVT fluid? I think you had to change it before 60k to get the 100k warranty on it, but it would be worth doing now anyways.
Coolant, brake juice too.
Our Outback seems to just go with some regular maintenance. It seems so far all the components they used are decent quality.

 

[mt23]

Cvt drain and fill, clean throttle body, clean egr valve and piping, clean MAF sensor., replace pcv valve and hose if brittle. Spark plugs due every 60k.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

As others said, you need to change the CVT fluid. You will need a scan tool and a flat surface in order to do the job.

The best CVT fluid to use is Cam2 because it's green the same color as OEM, but if that doesn't matter to you, there are plenty of quality fluids that will be good in your Forester, such as Valvoline and Amalie (which also supplies parts store house brands)

 

[D60]

Agree spill 'n fill the CVT

Clock springs are pretty much maintenance items on these, if you want your horn to work

Keep a couple lugnuts and studs on the shelf

 

[Rand]

Brake fluid flush, front and rear diff gear oil again, battery, spark plugs, CVT fluid. I like subaru or beck arnley cvt fluid.

 

[badtlc]

Agree spill 'n fill the CVT

Clock springs are pretty much maintenance items on these, if you want your horn to work

Keep a couple lugnuts and studs on the shelf

already had 3 studs replaced on this thing.

 

[badtlc]

it seems way too early for coolant and spark plugs. What is the story on that? Are they not iridium plugs and 10yr coolant?

 

[Marcozi]

it seems way too early for coolant and spark plugs. What is the story on that? Are they not iridium plugs and 10yr coolant?

That coolant is 7 years old. I'd replace it.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

already had 3 studs replaced on this thing.

That's it?

 

[HowAboutThis]

already had 3 studs replaced on this thing.

Only 3? You must've hit a quality day of Subaru lug stud creation at the factory

 

[HowAboutThis]

That coolant is 7 years old. I'd replace it.

Subaru recommends 60k on their plugs for some reason.

To OP, as others have said, diffs, brake fluid, CVT juice, and coolant are coming up soon. I've got the 120k list for my wife's in the next month or so.

And, unless you lucked out, preemptive wheel bearing replacement if the 2018's still have the junk backing plates that need a new part (or so I was told)

 

[mt23]

That's it?

Zero on my 2018..

 

[2dogs]

The PCV valve on my '16 was a little gummed up at 80k, so maybe that?

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Subaru recommends 60k on their plugs for some reason.

To OP, as others have said, diffs, brake fluid, CVT juice, and coolant are coming up soon. I've got the 120k list for my wife's in the next month or so.

And, unless you lucked out, preemptive wheel bearing replacement if the 2018's still have the junk backing plates that need a new part (or so I was told)

The non-turbo SJ isn't DI, so they probably can make it to 100k with no problem. Since the job is difficult on them, you'll want to use iridium or even ruthenium so you won't have to do them again for a long time. While you can obviously use the same OE plugs, other good options are Denso Iridium TT and NGK ruthenium.

Zero on my 2018..

for now

 

[IndyIan]

Only 3? You must've hit a quality day of Subaru lug stud creation at the factory

I've done most of the tire swaps on my car, and haven't had to replace any, but if you try to zip them off fast with the impact with lots of rust on the threads, they do tend to catch and want to gall, and if the tire monkey keeps hammering them off at full speed, then they tend to strip or break....
Subaru uses finer thread which has theoretical advantages(which is why fine threads are used in the engine), but also is more sensitive to corrosion and damage, and maybe not needed for wheel lugs, since no other manufacturer does this?

 

[mt23]

I've always given them a light coating of fluid film, avoid severely over torquing and no issues..

 

[D60]

Nissan used M12x1.25 lug studs and doesn't seem to have this problem. I don't know what magic URaBus used to make this so problematic for so long, but said magic is effective!

Note many metric threads get three relatively common pitches. I'd say M12x1.75 is coarse, M12x1.5 is fine (popular on Toyotas and inexplicably I don't see a lot of wheels flying off Camrys???????) and M12x1.25 is "extra fine" <--- my term

 

[HowAboutThis]

I've always given them a light coating of fluid film, avoid severely over torquing and no issues..

I've had issues with tire places and the dealership. The dealership replaces for free if they touched them last. I've had issues doing it myself by hand with a hand torque wrench. I've owned Nissans and Toyotas and Chevys and Hondas and NEVER broken a stud rotating tires. So I do find it odd how many I've broken on this Subaru. But when replaced with aftermarket, those don't seem to break from what I'm seeing

 

[badtlc]

I've had issues with tire places and the dealership. The dealership replaces for free if they touched them last. I've had issues doing it myself by hand with a hand torque wrench. I've owned Nissans and Toyotas and Chevys and Hondas and NEVER broken a stud rotating tires. So I do find it odd how many I've broken on this Subaru. But when replaced with aftermarket, those don't seem to break from what I'm seeing

Discount tire broke all 3 of mine. One was due to cross threading and stripped. The others were just removing the lug nut snapped off the stud. Each time Discount Tire paid for a local shop to repair it, no questions asked.