Thoughts on Maintenance Items for My 2017 VW All Track

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Well, coming up on 9 years of ownership and approaching 68,000 miles. Time for some maintenance items after all this time. I plan to have the following done.

1. Spark plugs changed.
2. PCV valve replaced.
3. DSG transmissionmission fluid change.
4. Haldex system fluid change.
5. MAF cleaned.
6. Brake fluid refreshed.
7. Oil and filter changed.

This car has been very well maintained with 5000 mile or less oil and filter changes, transmission fluid changes, Haldex servicing and spark plugs changed basically on schedule. Brake fluid has been changed twice before. I am still on the original brake pads and rotors with lots of pad life left as this car gets driven mostly on the highway. Still runs fine with about 35-36 mpg in the summer and about 31-32 mpg in the winter.

Any thing else you VW owners think I should get done? This car is immaculate with no rust anywhere and at age 77, I plan to keep it as long as possible.
 
Sounds like you are maintaining it well and doing what I would consider proper preventive maintenance for a modern VW. May as well change the air filter now and consider a coolant drain and fill. That should be done at least every 10 years regardless of what VW recommends. I've had G12++, G13, and Evo fluid start degrading at around that time frame. Once is goes acidic, it can do a number on the fragile cooling system. I don't know if you have access to any of the VW diagnostic tools available (Ross-Tech VCDS, OBD 11, Carista etc.) but they are invaluble to run scans every so often to see if any codes are stored that point to future issues. They can give you info regarding timing chains and when the stretch has developed to a point they need replacing. Breather system for the Gen 3 EA888 is pretty decent now, but you may want to save some dollars toward a valve cleaning with a media blast. Other than that, good oil, good gas = good running.

Oh and the signature statement is that neither Orwell or Rudyard Kipling originally made it as written. It is more of a modern paraphrasing of Kiplings original thoughts from his work Tommy in 1890 about the mockery of soldiers protecting citizens. Orwell cited Kipling's thought process and the irony that some civilized men protect others from men that are not. I took some license with mine by adding women to the phrase to more accurately reflect and give credit to all soldiers.
 
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When and if you change the coolant, consider changing the coolant expansion tank at the same time as the ball shaped ones don't last forever on VW's. The OE ones are under $100. Plus does your car have an actual fuel filter under the car? Change that.
 
I would still do a carbon clean and replace the oil cooler gaskets behind the oil filter and accessory bracket, along with removing the coolant packet and change your coolant.

If you do a carbon clean, I'd just throw in new Bosch injectors while you're at it and also lube up the wastegate arm with nickel based anti seize.
 
Even though there is still some life on the brake pads, I would replace them. I would replace the cabin air filter and as mentioned before, the air filter. I would only be using Liqui-Moly products where possible, and OEM/German parts. That's what I have done in my 2017 Jetta - but understand that others feel differently about brands and oils. It's just a fact that VW and German brands respond well to diligent service, and the converse is doubly true. When you are going through everything is a great time to thoroughly clean the car, and consider ceramic or wax protection. You probably already know that VW paint is rock hard, so if there are any flaws, budget some time for compounding and polishing. Your list is quite thorough even without the additions. Best wishes.
 
When and if you change the coolant, consider changing the coolant expansion tank at the same time as the ball shaped ones don't last forever on VW's. The OE ones are under $100. Plus does your car have an actual fuel filter under the car? Change that.
Good point. Those reservoirs get brittle like all the other plastic and can develop cracks that could lead to failure. Also, the MK VIIs place a soluble packet of silica gel in the reservoirs to replenish the silicates that help prevent corrosion. Most remove this packet as if it splits, it can cause damage. Regular coolant changes alleviate the need for this packet anyway.
 
You seem to have most of the fluids queued for replacement, in which case I will say to consider changing the front bevel gear (separate from the DSG), as well as the rear differential (separate from the Haldex) if they have not been serviced recently.
I am still on the original brake pads and rotors with lots of pad life left as this car gets driven mostly on the highway.
I would still inspect the pads and clean and lubricate the slide pins assuming the pads look good, a stuck slide pin will cause a pad to drag and wear unevenly and could eventually warp a rotor.
 
You seem to have most of the fluids queued for replacement, in which case I will say to consider changing the front bevel gear (separate from the DSG), as well as the rear differential (separate from the Haldex) if they have not been serviced recently.

I would still inspect the pads and clean and lubricate the slide pins assuming the pads look good, a stuck slide pin will cause a pad to drag and wear unevenly and could eventually warp a rotor.
^ This. Bevel gear fluid and rear differential. I used Motul 300 Gear 75W90.
Check coils. Those engines run super hot, and coils are common victim.
 
Bevel and rear diff fluids. Make sure the Haldex service includes the pump being removed and the small screen cleaned out. There is no MAF to clean on these. Coolant would also be a good one to add. No need to replace things that aren't an issue here. My '18 with 120k tuned/tracked is running great.
 
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