Maintenance Items on a 120k mile 2010 Honda Accord

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So my 2010 Accord has 120k miles on it. It's obviously already 7 years old. I've done regular maintenance like 8-9k mile oil changes with a good synthetic oil and filters. The air filter is replaced at 30k mile intervals with a Napa Gold. I've done several rounds of ATF fluid replacements, and a few "turkey baster" D&F's of the PSF (going through 3 bottles of genuine Honda PSF each time I do this). I recently had the original front brakes replaced (with Napa ceramic pads and Napa Reactive rotors), along with a front caliper that was seized (the original brakes lasted me 120k miles, and were still "good"). The rear brakes were disassembled and re-lubed. At this brake service, the car received it's 3rd brake fluid replacement/flush. I also recently replaced the spark plugs with factory platinum-iridium Denso's. The serpentine belt still looks good. Last year, at 95k miles, I had the original coolant removed. They ran a cleaning solution through it, rinsed with water, drained, and then re-filled with Long Life Honda Blue coolant (done at the Honda dealer). That's all that's been done with the cooling system. This car is used as my highway cruiser. So reliability is important to me. A.) When would you replace the serpentine belt? I will only replace it with a factory belt from Honda. B.) What about replacing the water pump? Once again, I see no problems and I think OEM Honda WP's are known to go for a long time. C.) Thermostat? Should it be on my list? D.) Can you think of anything else?
 
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Belts wear like tires now from what I read. Use to be able look for splits and cracks, and know the belt was bad, but since they supposedly wear like tires now I reckon one would have to use one of those tools to measure wear. Can still visually inspect, but I am going to listen to what Gates says that a wear gauge is needed now to get a good read on the belt. Gates is giving them away for free. http://www.gates.com/products/automotive/tools-and-sales-aids/belt-wear-diagnosis/belt-wear-gauge Check the PCV valve to see if it still jiggles.
 
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I have a 2005 CR-V at 241k now. Original water pump and thermostat. I've done all the fluids multiple times (except steering, I never do anything with that). Changed the belt at 200k just for fun, the old one looked OK. No need to do anything minus the belt, if you want.
 
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It's pretty interesting how long (time) some of this stuff will last. I am changing out the original belt and thermostat on my dad's 2001 truck. The belt looks decent still but the thermostat is sticking. I'd definitely change the PS fluid. That stuff is always nasty and smells like it's full of metal on the first change.
 
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At 120K it could be time for some suspension work. Check joints, tie-rod ends, do a bounce-test for the shocks/struts. Check the shocks/struts for an oily appearance, may be leaking. I know some people drive suspension parts until they literally fail but I changed everything out (shocks/struts/tie-rod ends/strut mounts on the last car I had and it seriously was like driving a new car. Steering improved, body roll decreased, braking distance was shortened, way less nose dive under braking. You don't notice how much the parts wear because it's so gradual. Only other things I can say are that an OEM belt is not entirely neccessary, neither are OEM water pumps. There are fantastic aftermarket brands for less money. If this has spark plug wires those could be replaced, what about cabin air filter, fuel filter, transmission filter? If you don't run Top Tier gas a few bottles of PEA based cleaner would be good (Gum Out, for example).
 
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Because reliability is a must, I would suggest you get a new belt and keep it in ur trunk just in case the original one goes bad. Then perhaps replace the old one after 150K mile mark. I wouldn't touch the water pump or thermostat until they stop working. U are doing good w the fluids. What about tranny fluid replacement?
 

Phishin

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Originally Posted By: Throt
At 120K it could be time for some suspension work. Check joints, tie-rod ends, do a bounce-test for the shocks/struts. Check the shocks/struts for an oily appearance, may be leaking. I know some people drive suspension parts until they literally fail but I changed everything out (shocks/struts/tie-rod ends/strut mounts on the last car I had and it seriously was like driving a new car. Steering improved, body roll decreased, braking distance was shortened, way less nose dive under braking. You don't notice how much the parts wear because it's so gradual. Only other things I can say are that an OEM belt is not entirely neccessary, neither are OEM water pumps. There are fantastic aftermarket brands for less money. If this has spark plug wires those could be replaced, what about cabin air filter, fuel filter, transmission filter? If you don't run Top Tier gas a few bottles of PEA based cleaner would be good (Gum Out, for example).
The car drives like a new car. It's always on the highway. The brakes are hardly ever used, neither is the steering. I'm confident that the suspension is in great shape. No spark plug wires, the coils sit on top of the plugs. Yes, I keep a fresh cabin filter in the car. No fuel filter. Transmission filter has been replaced (the in-line filter that sits on top of the transmission). I run good gas, but every year I run PEA based Gumout Regane through her (3-4 bottles in a few tanks).
Originally Posted By: barkingspider
Because reliability is a must, I would suggest you get a new belt and keep it in ur trunk just in case the original one goes bad. Then perhaps replace the old one after 150K mile mark. I wouldn't touch the water pump or thermostat until they stop working. U are doing good w the fluids. What about tranny fluid replacement?
Good idea. I'll put a belt in the trunk!! In the original post, I said that the transmission fluid has been regularly changed. Multiple D&F's, plus 2 complete fluid exchanges.
 
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I would definitely change the pcv valve and primary o2 sensor, and keep a new drive belt in your trunk. K20 primary o2 sensor is wideband and it needs to be replaced at that mileage. You dont have to get a CEL, it begins to get lazy after 50-60k miles. You don't need to flush the transmission fluid, just change it every other oil change (or every 3 oil changes) and it will always keep it clean. If i were you, i wouldn't touch cooling system parts unless there is a problem. Did you check valve clearanes when changing the spark plugs?
 
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You need to remove the valve cover and inspect the valve clearance when the engine is cold. Also, most Accords I've seen will need front Compliance Bushings at that mileage.
 
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This is the type of things that makes resale value of Honda and Toyota high....meticulous owner's maintenance.
 
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Originally Posted By: Tundragod
This is the type of things that makes resale value of Honda and Toyota high....meticulous owner's maintenance.
Eh. yes and no. more no than yes. I kept meticulous records and maintained everything on a 2010 Taurus and when I traded it in they didn't even want to look at my records. They said it didn't matter what I had done it would sell for the same amount. Was really disheartening actually. I had replaced the plugs, changed every single fluid and filter possible, all new brakes, new tires. You name it, I had replaced it as preventative maintenance and it didn't do anything for me. The only time I ever plan on maintaining a car that well again is if I KNOW I'll be keeping it till it's completely dead. If you're only gonna keep it 4-6 years, just drive it.
 
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I had a fair amount if hwy miles on the 99 Accord when I sold it. I had it inspected prior to selling at the dealer who did a good job for me over the years. They said the suspension looked fine, and dry. I would replace the pcv valve since the internal spring usually breaks around 60k miles. So yes it will still rattle even when broken, oem only. I'd also replace the thermostat with again an oem version of it. Right around 150k they get sticky and don't open too well, cheap insurance. I think everything else you covered or has been mentioned.
 

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Originally Posted By: Throt
Originally Posted By: Tundragod
This is the type of things that makes resale value of Honda and Toyota high....meticulous owner's maintenance.
Eh. yes and no. more no than yes. I kept meticulous records and maintained everything on a 2010 Taurus and when I traded it in they didn't even want to look at my records. They said it didn't matter what I had done it would sell for the same amount. Was really disheartening actually. I had replaced the plugs, changed every single fluid and filter possible, all new brakes, new tires. You name it, I had replaced it as preventative maintenance and it didn't do anything for me. The only time I ever plan on maintaining a car that well again is if I KNOW I'll be keeping it till it's completely dead. If you're only gonna keep it 4-6 years, just drive it.
Agreed. The two primary considerations the used car appraiser looks at are millage and how shiny/ding free the car is. The maintenance they could care less about.
 
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Originally Posted By: Throt
Originally Posted By: Tundragod
This is the type of things that makes resale value of Honda and Toyota high....meticulous owner's maintenance.
Eh. yes and no. more no than yes. I kept meticulous records and maintained everything on a 2010 Taurus and when I traded it in they didn't even want to look at my records. They said it didn't matter what I had done it would sell for the same amount. Was really disheartening actually. I had replaced the plugs, changed every single fluid and filter possible, all new brakes, new tires. You name it, I had replaced it as preventative maintenance and it didn't do anything for me. The only time I ever plan on maintaining a car that well again is if I KNOW I'll be keeping it till it's completely dead. If you're only gonna keep it 4-6 years, just drive it.
+100. I recently experienced similar thing for one of the car.
 

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I'd replace the serpentine belt and consider the thermostat soon. Other than that it sounds good to go.
 
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