M1 5w-40 in a motorcycle?

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DriveHard

DriveHard

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I'm a newbie, although I have been reading this forum for a little over a year, so please bear this in mind (be gentle)...

I have a 2003 Suzuki SV1000S (motorcycle, but using a car oil so unsure of proper location)
1 liter, V-twin, water cooled, shared sump with tranny, and wet clutch.
OE recomends 10W-40
Currently using Rotella T synth 5W-40, but worried about shear stability since its not a true synth. Doing 2000 mi intervals, but would like to go out to 4000 (I know I should use a UOA)

I know from reading all the wonderful posts on hear that a conventional 10W-40 would die (shear) rather quickly in a shared sump application.

I also know that todays energy conserving motor oils can cause problems with a wet clutch due to friction modifiers.

I want an oil I can get easily when I grab my car oil at the local X-mart (rotella T synth in car)

What I am getting to is...since M1 5-40 is rated for diesel engines, I recall that one of the diesel specs is for use with wet clutches. If someone could confirm that spec is on the label, and is not energy conserving, I think I will have found the perfect oil to use in my bike!!! What do you all think?
 
I haven't used 5w40 in a motorcycle before.

I've been using Mobil1 15w50 for about 3 years now. Never had a problem.

The one time I did try a 5w oil (5w30 Mobil1 on accident) I ruined that oil and had very hard shifting after about 200 miles. That's what happens when you're not paying attention at walmart. =)
 
I know about using M1 15-50, but I ride year around down to 32F or so. I have 5W-40 in there right now in the Rotella synth version with no shifting problems, etc...but want a full synth.

How did you ruin a 5w-30?
 
How did I ruin the 5w30? Dunno. I'd have to say all that 12k rpm riding.

It was really nice there at first, but then I could barely shift. Would make awful noises. When I drained it out it was black and smelled burnt.
 
The reason why some have problems & some don't is clutch material. sintered metal are prone while organic(example-cork) do not. My Triumph triple only specifies SH synt.,no mention of Jasco-ma, so i run 'red cap' which is also the rec. wieght.PS the HT/HS for 'red cap is slightly higer than Amsoils MC oil, IMO it must be good.
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The gears in the transmission can be really hard on oil.

I notice the same thing(hard shifting) on my Triumph when I ran Delo 15w40. This was after about 1500 miles. I switched to Amsoil Semi-syn and ran it about 3000. The shifting stayed good the entire time.

I would advise against the 5w40 in your SV.
 
quote:
Originally posted by DriveHard:
I want an oil I can get easily when I grab my car oil at the local X-mart (rotella T synth in car)
Click to expand...
Mobil 1 15w50 would be my choice! There are many folks that run this with a wet clutch with absolutly no problems.
 
msparks - why would you advise against the M1 5w-40?

From reading on here it seems pretty obvious that M1 5W-40 is indeed Delvac 1, which seems to be one of the most respected oils on here (getting flame suit on). I am still conviced that it would be a great choice for my bike, and would love some good reasons why it wouldn't be.

While I know M1 15w-50 is a good choice, when I used it in my GSX1100F I swore I could feel a power loss, and while my clutch did not slip, it did change the feel of it. For those reasons I would feel better staying away from it for now. (I know I am being a little silly about this, but hey, what is this place for)
 
quote:
Originally posted by DriveHard:
msparks - why would you advise against the M1 5w-40?

From reading on here it seems pretty obvious that M1 5W-40 is indeed Delvac 1,
Click to expand...
Because in a bike I would bet it will shear pretty fast. I guess you could do an oil anlaysis on the stuff to be sure the viscosity stays in check. I would just prefer a 10 or 15 starting vis as opposed to a 5. I've ridden down 20 degreeF with my bikes and have had no problems starting.

10w40 or 15w40 would be the best for this bike.
 
quote:
Originally posted by DriveHard:


I have a 2003 Suzuki SV1000S (motorcycle, but using a car oil so unsure of proper location)
1 liter, V-twin, water cooled, shared sump with tranny, and wet clutch.
OE recomends 10W-40
Click to expand...
BTW, I have a 2003 SV650s. and I will be running Amsoil 10w40 in this after the break in. I now am on Delo 400 for the next 1500 miles. At 2,000 on the bike I will go with Amsoil's 15w40 Semi-synthetic diesel for 3000 miles then go to Amsoil full synthetic at 5000.
 
I just got a 04 Suzuki DL 650 V-Strom last week (just 300 miles) and I am also using a conventional 10W-40 oil. IMHO a 5W oil is too thin for a motorcycle.

msparks: How soon do you think a full synthetic can be used? The plan is to use Amsoil 10W-40 (motorcycle oil). Temperatures here never exceed 35º Celsius, about 95º Fahrenheit.

I'm using Amsoil 5W-30 (ASL) in both my 01 Echo and my 98 K1500 with outstanding results.

[ May 17, 2004, 11:20 AM: Message edited by: highmiler ]
 
quote:
Originally posted by highmiler:

msparks: How soon do you think a full synthetic can be used? The plan is to use Amsoil 10W-40 (motorcycle oil). Temperatures here never exceed 35º Celsius, about 95º Fahrenheit.

Click to expand...
From what I understand, the SV uses Iron Cylinders and they break in pretty fast. I would say you could easily change over at 2000-3000(bascially 1 run on dino after the first 600 mile service)

Amsoil 10w40 is perfect in this application
 
That's what I thought. Thanks for the advice.
Actually, first service is at 1600 kms or 1000 miles. I will wait until 3k and switch over.
As soon as I get the analysis results they will be posted here.
 
I'll pipe in and recommend Mobil 1 15w50 "red cap" like the others have done. I'm running this in my '99 Magna VF750 and getting great results. Recently posted my 2nd UOA on this oil, 1 year and 5,000 miles later it's still looking good.
 
Delvac 1 has slightly higher ash levels than what JASO requires, 1.35% vs 1.2%.

I'm not sure if you would get more deposits or not.
 
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