Lubeguard Shudder Fixx

[Drew1987]

Hey all, I know shudder fix works... but for how long? 2011 Rav with 170k. Has a "buzz" on lockup. A few fluid changes with Toyota WS and Lubegurad RED and it was better for a few hundred miles. If I put in shudder fix, is it permanent?

Thanks!

 

[wag123]

As far as I am aware, the product does not wear out. You can always use more of it, and often times this provides more of a benefit. Lubegard will even tell you that you can use more and might have to for best results. I have never heard of anyone damaging their transmission by using Lubegard products, even at much higher doses than the label recommends. Stick with the red.

 

[Drew1987]

As far as I am aware, the product does not wear out. You can always use more of it, and often times this provides more of a benefit. Lubegard will even tell you that you can use more and might have to for best results. I have never heard of anyone damaging their transmission by using Lubegard products, even at much higher doses than the label recommends. Stick with the red.

Thank you! I’ve always added red - but this is a shudder so I was going to use the shudder fix. 3 fluid changed with red didn’t help

 

[mattd]

No additive will fix a mechanical problem.

 

[Drew1987]

I know this. But a friction modifier can change friction components

Ever change dirty dual pump fluid in a CRV rear diff? Major difference.

 

[mattd]

If the friction components are worn out, there won’t be anything to modify. There is a Difference between spent fluid and worn components.

And yes I have, many times regarding CRV differentials.

 

[Drew1987]

It went away for a few hundred miles with fluid changes and lube guard red, leads me to believe there is some hope… Are you thinking there is not? 10,000 miles or so would be a blessing

 

[wag123]

Thank you! I’ve always added red - but this is a shudder so I was going to use the shudder fix. 3 fluid changed with red didn’t help

Lubegard would tell you to double the recommended dose. I concur. Email them. Lubegard Red will definitely help with a shudder problem.

 

[Drew1987]

Better than the shutter fix?!

Thank you

 

[Deleted member 89374]

@Drew1987 I don't know if your issue is wear related, or a dirty transmission.

Give this a chance without adding any additives: https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants...products/products/mobil-1-synthetic-lv-atf-hp

Very important: make sure to get the Blue Label bottles, not the black label. Mobil, for some reason, shows the wrong bottle.

It was designed to fix the shudder issues in GM 8 speed transmissions. It has a very robust DI package with excellent friction modifiers. Do not add Lubegard or anything else to it.

I don't know how much you can drain versus your transmission capacity. Do at least 3 drains and fills. You should see results right away. At this point you have nothing to lose. Doing more of the same with Toyota WS and Lubegard will not change anything for you, so give this a try and let us know if it works for you.

 

[Drew1987]

Thanks! I happen to have a few gallons of MaxLife. Is that as good? I can always order some of this if not

 

[Deleted member 89374]

Thanks! I happen to have a few gallons of MaxLife. Is that as good? I can always order some of this if not

MaxLife uses a completely different DI package. I just fixed a transmission issue in our 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe with this fluid. I did 3 drains and fills and it took 200 miles for the computer to learn the new fluid, but that brutal 1-2 hard shift is now completely gone. Ironically what started this nightmare for me was using AMSOIL ATL. Tried Red Line D6 after that, but learned that it uses the exact same DI package as AMSOIL. The M1, as far as I know, uses the most advanced ATF DI package currently available on the market. Give it a try. O'Reilly's and Amazon both have it.

 

[Drew1987]

Much appreciated


In the old days when Toyotas were still vastly superior, i stuck with thier t-iv. We still have DW1 in our 200k odyssey. My tundra sadly has ws and I don’t know if it’s never been changed at 202k. So I don’t touch it

 

[Deleted member 89374]

Much appreciated


In the old days when Toyotas were still vastly superior, i stuck with thier t-iv. We still have DW1 in our 200k odyssey. My tundra sadly has ws and I don’t know if it’s never been changed at 202k. So I don’t touch it

If you want an ATF that also has cleaning capabilities then get the ATF Green from here: https://www.advlubrication.com/coll...ricants/products/automatic-transmission-fluid

HPL is also a sponsor on this website. Their ATF is the only one I know of that's more advanced than the Mobil 1.

The only difference between ATF Green and ATF Green CC is that the ATF Green is Group III base oil and the CC is PAO. If you're not in a super cold climate then get the regular ATF Green. They both clean the same way.

If not, then the Mobil 1 should serve you well. If the Mobil 1 won't make the shuddering go away, then probably ATF Green won't either. The only difference between them is that ATF Green has some cleaning abilities that Mobil 1 doesn't have.

My tundra sadly has ws and I don’t know if it’s never been changed at 202k. So I don’t touch it

If the clutches are still okay and just dirty or varnished up then change the fluid. Lubegard Red bottle has some cleaning abilities, but nothing like ATF Blue or Green from HPL. If you don't touch it it will eventually burn off the entire DI package and probably plug up one or more valves and varnish up the clutches. That's how transmissions die.

 

[Drew1987]

Thanks for all that

I was told on the tundra - at 201k it’s too late / changing it will likely be worse for it than leaving it. I guess I’m prepared for the $1700 at some point but not if it’s far from home

 

[Deleted member 89374]

I was told on the tundra - at 201k it’s too late / changing it will likely be worse for it than leaving it. I guess I’m prepared for the $1700 at some point but not if it’s far from home

I lost a transmission once because I did a flush at a shop on a 1984 Ford Econoline van with ~100K miles on it. This was 2004. A couple of weeks after the flush something plugged the valve body and that was it, no more shifting.

However, if you take it slow and do multiple drains and fills, without flushing it, I don't see a problem. Can you change the filter in it?

 

[Lubener]

It went away for a few hundred miles with fluid changes and lube guard red, leads me to believe there is some hope… Are you thinking there is not? 10,000 miles or so would be a blessing

If its benefits cease, you could always add another dose.

 

[nicholas]

Thanks for all that

I was told on the tundra - at 201k it’s too late / changing it will likely be worse for it than leaving it. I guess I’m prepared for the $1700 at some point but not if it’s far from home

It's never too late....I changed an A4 at 200k over to maxlife. It was the best thing I ever did.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

As far as I am aware, the product does not wear out. You can always use more of it, and often times this provides more of a benefit. Lubegard will even tell you that you can use more and might have to for best results. I have never heard of anyone damaging their transmission by using Lubegard products, even at much higher doses than the label recommends. Stick with the red.

Pretty sure Lubegard specifies on the Shudder Fix that you can only use 2 of the tiny tubes and then the fluid must be changed. May have been a post on communication with LG, but remember according to LG’s documentation, this is “concentrated 5x” which means it’s like adding 10 oz, supposedly.

One thing I do know for certain is that @MolaKule said he’d never use the Platinum which is a friction modifier, only the Red. Maybe he’ll comment on the shudder fix and if my comment above is correct.

 

[wag123]

Pretty sure Lubegard specifies on the Shudder Fix that you can only use 2 of the tiny tubes and then the fluid must be changed. May have been a post on communication with LG, but remember according to LG’s documentation, this is “concentrated 5x” which means it’s like adding 10 oz, supposedly.

One thing I do know for certain is that @MolaKule said he’d never use the Platinum which is a friction modifier, only the Red. Maybe he’ll comment on the shudder fix and if my comment above is correct.

I was specifically referring to Lubegard Red.