Lubeguard Shudder Fixx

[Drew1987]

Thanks all.

The Unrelated tundra i mentioned above worries me as for all I know it’s never been done. As friction materials are suspended and 200,000 mile fluid, when removed, that could be the tipping point for clutches to start slipping, or so I have been led to possibly believe

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Thanks all.

The Unrelated tundra i mentioned above worries me as for all I know it’s never been done. As friction materials are suspended and 200,000 mile fluid, when removed, that could be the tipping point for clutches to start slipping, or so I have been led to possibly believe

Drain & fill, and change filter if it’s accessible. I usually change out one gallon (or whatever one sump full is) at a time, drive it for 5-10 miles going thru all gears, and repeat til fluid is clear.

 

[Drew1987]

This is a nightmare with the tundra, so I might do a cooler line “replacement“ that is, have a helper run the vehicle until 4 quarts is dispensed, replace it, and repeat until clear fluid is coming out, then fine-tune fluid level. It does not have a dipstick and is an absolute miserable, miserable job to get the fluid level correct. Several five or 10 mile drives on an incorrect level could be a disaster, especially given fluid volume is change with heat. a cooler line replacement avoids a lot of that, I just need to wrap my head around the job

 

[Deleted member 89374]

Thanks all.

The Unrelated tundra i mentioned above worries me as for all I know it’s never been done. As friction materials are suspended and 200,000 mile fluid, when removed, that could be the tipping point for clutches to start slipping, or so I have been led to possibly believe

That's another myth. When your clutches are done, they're done. The mythical friction material floating around won't make them engage if they're burned out. Change your fluid, but don't flush it with a machine. That's what really kills old transmissions. Been there, done that.

 

[Drew1987]

That's another myth. When your clutches are done, they're done. The mythical friction material floating around won't make them engage if they're burned out. Change your fluid, but don't flush it with a machine. That's what really kills old transmissions. Been there, done that.

I like to hear this! I’m very careful with what information I taken, because none of it really comes from a lab, so I’m much more I have to consider the credibility of the one who told me. I was warned by some Toyota master techs about getting rid of really old fluid like I said above, but my gut and own mechanical experience/knowledge lines up more with what you said.

Just out of curiosity, is there any concrete evidence? Not questioning you, just trying to learn

 

[Deleted member 89374]

This is a nightmare with the tundra, so I might do a cooler line “replacement“ that is, have a helper run the vehicle until 4 quarts is dispensed, replace it, and repeat until clear fluid is coming out, then fine-tune fluid level. It does not have a dipstick and is an absolute miserable, miserable job to get the fluid level correct. Several five or 10 mile drives on an incorrect level could be a disaster, especially given fluid volume is change with heat. a cooler line replacement avoids a lot of that, I just need to wrap my head around the job

Well, I'm happy that my 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe SE can hold an extra quart of fluid then. It's a "design feature" meant for diagnostics, if you believe that. So I run it with half a quart over full. When I did the 3 drains and fills I added an extra quart each time, except the last time, to get more of the old fluid out. So don't worry that much about getting the level perfectly right. If you have to little or too much, the transmission will slip and then start overheating.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

I like to hear this! I’m very careful with what information I taken, because none of it really comes from a lab, so I’m much more I have to consider the credibility of the one who told me. I was warned by some Toyota master techs about getting rid of really old fluid like I said above, but my gut and own mechanical experience/knowledge lines up more with what you said.

Just out of curiosity, is there any concrete evidence? Not questioning you, just trying to learn

Floating debris between clutches is never a good thing. Using deductive reasoning, if you leave the old fluid long enough there, Murphy's Law will take effect, and everything that can go wrong, will go wrong. The risk of doing multiple drains and fills is minimal, as you eliminate some of the old contaminated fluid and replace it with new one. Drive around, see if it feels any different. You don't do it all at once.

 

[kschachn]

Thanks all.

The Unrelated tundra i mentioned above worries me as for all I know it’s never been done. As friction materials are suspended and 200,000 mile fluid, when removed, that could be the tipping point for clutches to start slipping, or so I have been led to possibly believe

I agree that this is an entirely unsubstantiated myth.

 

[Drew1987]

That’s crazy about the Hyundai!

As for the tundra, I can see, when it is ice cold and the fluid is literally sitting next to it at the same temperature, draining and replacing with the same amount to ease in new fluid. If I do it this way, it will be with world standard, as that is what is in there now. If I did a cooler line replacement, which of course replaces all of what’s in there now in one shot, I would probably switch to Max life

 

[Deleted member 89374]

That’s crazy about the Hyundai!

As for the tundra, I can see, when it is ice cold and the fluid is literally sitting next to it at the same temperature, draining and replacing with the same amount to ease in new fluid. If I do it this way, it will be with world standard, as that is what is in there now. If I did a cooler line replacement, which of course replaces all of what’s in there now in one shot, I would probably switch to Max life

You can do it with the Mobil 1 as well. Or MaxLife for that matter. These ATFs are blended with modern chemistry, and they work very well. Just drive it around between the drains and fills so you circulate fluid through the cooler as well.

 

[Tdog02]

We used the shudder fix on just about every crown vic with the AOD transmission that ran in our fleet. Long term no problems up to 180-200 thousand miles. Our trans shop also put in a inline magnafine filter. I believe it was also in a Ford TSB after transmission rebuild.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

We used the shudder fix on just about every crown vic with the AOD transmission that ran in our fleet. Long term no problems up to 180-200 thousand miles. Our trans shop also put in a inline magnafine filter. I believe it was also in a Ford TSB after transmission rebuild.

I think I should install one of these on the Hyundai. Safe is safe!

 

[panthermike]

I have found something that personally works better than shutter fix. It is actually doing a double dose, 2 oz per quart of lubegard Platinum. Of course I'm talking only if you have a shutter issue otherwise I just use 1 oz per quart. I did this initially on a Ford transmission and it resolved it, this was with the blessing of Lubegard to do so. Oh and fresh fluid went in with the double dose as well.

 

[UG_Passat]

Pretty sure Lubegard specifies on the Shudder Fix that you can only use 2 of the tiny tubes and then the fluid must be changed. May have been a post on communication with LG, but remember according to LG’s documentation, this is “concentrated 5x” which means it’s like adding 10 oz, supposedly.

One thing I do know for certain is that @MolaKule said he’d never use the Platinum which is a friction modifier, only the Red. Maybe he’ll comment on the shudder fix and if my comment above is correct.

Red contains Friction Modifier also.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Red contains Friction Modifier also.

View attachment 136037

If you search MolaKule’s posts on Platinum, he obviously explains it better than I did. There’s some significant difference in the way Platinum modifies the fluid vs the Red, and its something significant enough that he said he would never use nor recommend Platinum.

 

[UG_Passat]

If you search MolaKule’s posts on Platinum, he obviously explains it better than I did. There’s some significant difference in the way Platinum modifies the fluid vs the Red, and its something significant enough that he said he would never use nor recommend Platinum.

The way lubegard explained it to me was, Platinum and Red has the same friction modifiers, just more of it in Platinum, but less than Black

 

[LouC]

Thanks for all that

I was told on the tundra - at 201k it’s too late / changing it will likely be worse for it than leaving it. I guess I’m prepared for the $1700 at some point but not if it’s far from home

I recently changed the fluid on a Chrysler 545RFE at 120,000 miles (pan drop & filter change, required 9.5 qts to refill) with no ill effects. I would not do a flush on any auto trans. Just do a pan drop & new filter. If the pan has a drain plug and uses a gasket it's not a bad job. The Chrysler doesn't have a drain plug and uses RTV, both of which make it a pain, but still do-able.

 

[LouC]

For pan drops, if you have an auto trans with no drain plug on the pan, get a vacuum pump, it makes it much less messy. I was able to suck 4 qts out of the pan this way, then after I cracked it loose I sucked out as much as I could. Even tho the book says less, this one took 9.5 qts to read full. Next time (if I have it that long) I am going to put a pan on with a drain plug!

 

[Drew1987]

Thanks everybody! The problem is

My tundra does not have a dipstick. It is a very big deal with this Toyota transmission to get the fluid level perfect. In my mind, the logical thing is to replace it 4 quarts at a time through the cooler lines, or, do a drain and fill when it is ice cold, drive it for the day, and then repeat the next morning when it is ice cold again. That way, four quarts at ambient temperature taken out is replaced with 4 quarts at ambient temperature put back in. This is a good start to making sure the level is correct. Technically Toyotas scan tool is required, but there is some hack where you can use the odometer with some pins pushed in the OBT to port
I have access to the scan tool

 

[panthermike]

If you search MolaKule’s posts on Platinum, he obviously explains it better than I did. There’s some significant difference in the way Platinum modifies the fluid vs the Red, and its something significant enough that he said he would never use nor recommend Platinum.

I respect molakules expertise but I don't think lubegard would put out a product that was risky by any means. Of course this is just one man's experience but I have been using Platinum in my vehicles for years now as well as family members and no issues. The crown Vic is sitting at 166k and shifts just as well as it did when I bought it 6 years ago.