I have a 2012 Impala LT with 43000 miles on it. The dealership keeps bugging me to lube the caliper slides. I had it done at 18000 miles and then checked the internet on recommendations for how often. There isn't anything in my owner's manual, and I haven't been able to find anything on-line. Is it worth $140+ to have it done and how often??
lube brake caliper slides??
- Thread starter Tutti
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No need to lube the brake caliper slides unless you work on the brake such as replace the pad. Personally, I didn't even lube it when I replaced brake pads for my Volvo V70, Honda S2000 ...
I personally disassemble clean and lube both front and rear brakes ones a year. I won't say it is strictly required. But I like knowing that the brakes are en best possible condition any given time. I use ordinary silicone plumbers grease to lube the pins .
I do it every brake job and in between once In a great while if there is an issue. Otherwise, every brake job.
CRC has a new brake lube out called Silaramic. Sil-Glyde from NAPA is also a good caliper pin lube. Stay away from Permatex brake lubes. The ones I have used swell the guide pin bushing used on many calipers.It also attacks the slide pin seals.
Grease longevity in brakes can vary, depending on grease quality and vehicle brand brake pin differences.
In our harsh Michigan climate I have seen the grease dry up before the pads wore out, causing sticking and premature pad and/or rotor problems.
I tend to put off this kind of maintenance and only grease the pins when I do a brake pad service.
But, I believe that it might be a good preventive maintenance to clean and grease the pins about mid way through the pad life OR about every 2 or 3 years to circumvent the grease drying out.
Again, it varies between vehicles, some are worse than others.
If not doing it yourself, find an independent garage that will charge about half of your $140 quote. This should be a half hour job up on a lift. The return on investment might not be worth it if you cannot do it yourself. Many of us here could do a complete one axle pad AND rotor replacement for your $140 dollars.
In our harsh Michigan climate I have seen the grease dry up before the pads wore out, causing sticking and premature pad and/or rotor problems.
I tend to put off this kind of maintenance and only grease the pins when I do a brake pad service.
But, I believe that it might be a good preventive maintenance to clean and grease the pins about mid way through the pad life OR about every 2 or 3 years to circumvent the grease drying out.
Again, it varies between vehicles, some are worse than others.
If not doing it yourself, find an independent garage that will charge about half of your $140 quote. This should be a half hour job up on a lift. The return on investment might not be worth it if you cannot do it yourself. Many of us here could do a complete one axle pad AND rotor replacement for your $140 dollars.
My dad has had a couple slide pins rust up on him before he did regular maintenance on them. I would guess that cleaning and lubing them every time the pads are changed would be more than enough.
I think it has a lot to do with the local weather too, if you're in a snowy/salty area, you might need to do it more often.
Like what was said above, use silicone based lube (http://www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clear-Sil...;qid=1402695496) as recommended by Eric the Car Guy. The one bottle will outlast your car.
I do it about once a year, I split it up and do one axle every time I do a tire rotation.
I wouldn't spend $140 to do it, I would do it myself for an hour of my time. It's a good time to check on the brake pads and lube the contact points (on the ears, not the friction material).
I think it has a lot to do with the local weather too, if you're in a snowy/salty area, you might need to do it more often.
Like what was said above, use silicone based lube (http://www.amazon.com/3M-08946-Clear-Sil...;qid=1402695496) as recommended by Eric the Car Guy. The one bottle will outlast your car.
I do it about once a year, I split it up and do one axle every time I do a tire rotation.
I wouldn't spend $140 to do it, I would do it myself for an hour of my time. It's a good time to check on the brake pads and lube the contact points (on the ears, not the friction material).
These caliper pins use a decent boot that seals well, you shouldn't have to mess with them between pad changes.
One thing you could do to save some aggravation down the road is to lube the E brake mechanism and cable end on the rear calipers with silicone grease.
You don't need to remove the caliper or even the wheel, its right behind and exposed. Just brush some grease behind the arm with the spring on it where it goes into the caliper and the exposed part of the cable.
It may save you replacing the calipers and E brake cables in the future. Nothing to do on the front ones.
One thing you could do to save some aggravation down the road is to lube the E brake mechanism and cable end on the rear calipers with silicone grease.
You don't need to remove the caliper or even the wheel, its right behind and exposed. Just brush some grease behind the arm with the spring on it where it goes into the caliper and the exposed part of the cable.
It may save you replacing the calipers and E brake cables in the future. Nothing to do on the front ones.
I don't know about GM models, but I had a 1998 Acura RL that was driven about 3 days a week and was parked outside. One rear caliper stuck on me and burned up the caliper, pad and rotor. Ever since then, I get the calipers lubed on all cars every 2-3 years.
I do mine twice a year, spring/autumn and live in New York. A local radio mechanic claims he does his 4 times a year. Once reason is the extreme heat given by the ceramic pads.
I use Permatex green which some claim eats Toyota rubber bushings. I've been using it 3 years on my 10 years old Toyota with no problems. Also it last better than other stuff I've used, to include Sly-Glide.
I use Permatex green which some claim eats Toyota rubber bushings. I've been using it 3 years on my 10 years old Toyota with no problems. Also it last better than other stuff I've used, to include Sly-Glide.
They just want to lube their wallet. It usually lasts till you need new pads. If the pads are replaced correctly then the slides will be cleaned and greased or at least checked on when the pads are replaced. Another thing you can do is ask to look at your brakes when the tires are being rotated so you can see if they are wearing evenly inside and out. If your pins are stuck it will cause uneven wear. 9 times out of 10 I would say they will go fine till the pads wear out. If you want to have it done time wise, I would say they should be checked every 2-3 years or so. I had a caliper with pins that needed to be lubed but the original pads at 201k Miles were also being removed at that time. It truly was time to grease them,lol.
Originally Posted By: NormanBuntz
I don't know about GM models, but I had a 1998 Acura RL that was driven about 3 days a week and was parked outside. One rear caliper stuck on me and burned up the caliper, pad and rotor. Ever since then, I get the calipers lubed on all cars every 2-3 years.
I've had the rear calipers seize up on my Acura twice now. I used to drive it every day, too. I don't think it has anything to do with how often it was driven... just seems to happen if you don't grease them regularly.
I don't know about GM models, but I had a 1998 Acura RL that was driven about 3 days a week and was parked outside. One rear caliper stuck on me and burned up the caliper, pad and rotor. Ever since then, I get the calipers lubed on all cars every 2-3 years.
I've had the rear calipers seize up on my Acura twice now. I used to drive it every day, too. I don't think it has anything to do with how often it was driven... just seems to happen if you don't grease them regularly.
like others I've greased the pins and slide points when replacing pads---never heard of greasing them at any other time.
I use Permatex Synthetic Brake Lube
Steve
I use Permatex Synthetic Brake Lube
Steve
Hello, Heat, quality of the lube previously used and design of the pin all contribute to how well the grease holds out. If one dry pin hangs a caliper up-costing time and money-then maybe an inspection isn't the worst idea in the world. Kira
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