Too much rust on brake line?

[supton]

2003 CRV, New England vehicle all its life. Noticed this while swapping out a bad caliper. I think I hit it with Fluid Film a year or two ago, but haven't kept up, and it's a high wash area, so it would not have kept--and it was not in my hands for its first 17 or 18 years.

To me, it looks too much, and I should have a shop cut that line out and replace. Haven't looked at the other 3 corners. No I'm not going to learn how to flare brake lines, this goes to a shop. Who may very well tell me it's time to move on--I don't think it's that rusty, but this is the CRV that is missing one exhaust lobe and has 2 or 3 others not far behind, and lived a life in the 'burbs, traveling 1 mile at a time (MIL lived that far from work).

It's a shame as you can see the black plastic covering on the brake line--that just doesn't quite make it to the fitting. So close. Lines looked fine underneath, just not here. The rest isn't bad, rockers just starting to get soft behind the faux plastic cladding.

 

[eljefino]

That's where they break, Jim. Get it fixed.

If you manage to break that line nut free, it will be rust-stuck to the remnant of brake tubing then twist into a pretzel at your rust weakened spot until the metal tears right where you expect it to.

But if it were mine, I'd work that line back and forth until it metal fatigues, stuff a six point socket on there, spray your penetrant of choice on the threads, and hope it doesn't take the brake hose along for the ride.

I know you're hiring it out, but that's about what to expect.

 

[Kurtatron]

Missing an exhaust lobe? Like a missing cam lobe?

 

[oldhp]

If the engine was healthy, yes fix it. Engine ain't healthy. Time to punt it down the road. My opinion only.

 

[supton]

Missing an exhaust lobe? Like a missing cam lobe?

Yep. I have thread somewhere on it. Bad cam at 180k. Apparently the 2003 K24’s are known for it.

Edit. Not fully gone of course, just a good chunk. Runs pretty good though.

 

[Trav]

That line is not looking healthy at all.

 

[daves87rs]

Yikes!

 

[VersatileGuy]

With a Snap-on or similar flare nut wrench, patience, much penetrant, some careful heat, there is just a bit of hope for optimism because it's a Japanese make. I have a "educated guess" they spec a slightly better corrosion resistant fastener than their American counterparts.

 

[Lubener]

Line is about to fail. Needs immediate attention.

Regarding cam lobes, if you can replace the cam yourself, it's a good project. If you have to pay someone at today's prices , I would consider trading it in for something newer. The car is not worth an engine teardown to replace the cam and a head conditioning to me.

 

[Trav]

With a Snap-on or similar flare nut wrench, patience, much penetrant, some careful heat, there is just a bit of hope for optimism because it's a Japanese make. I have a "educated guess" they spec a slightly better corrosion resistant fastener than their American counterparts.

The easiest way is to remove the rubber hose from the caliper then from the connection by just holding the line fitting and not trying to turn it.

 

[demarpaint]

That line is shot.

 

[supton]

The rubber line right now is fine and working--that's not the problem--it's the rusted steel line that is. It needs to be cut out and replaced--but if rusted section is removed, might as well replace the rubber line, that's a given.

Now I need to go poke around the other 4 corners and make a decision. Was not planning on getting 2 cars this year! 4 new brake lines might be the cheap option to put off trading for another year. Or maybe it's just time to take on some auto loans.

 

[Mechanician]

Any rust is too much rust. But this may last another 5 years before it leaks, there's no telling.
In my experience they don't "blow out", they usually start with a small leak.
You also have a "Dual Diagonal" brake system, so at least half the system will always be operational. Unless you ignore an obvious problem.

 

[JTK]

A 22yr/old Honda is a rarity in the rust belt as is. I'd assess everything upstream of the effected area and make a decision. She still could be worth having new tubing/fittings flared in if you can find a shop willing to do it reasonably enough. Like you say, this is a tough area to treat with oil based rust proofing products because of the turbulence and wheel wash. Woolwax is a better option than FF for those, but still needs re-sprays.

 

[supton]

You also have a "Dual Diagonal" brake system, so at least half the system will always be operational.

I dispute this. Years ago on a 2004 VW (so not ancient) I had a brake pad separate from the backing. Pedal went to the floor, until the caliper pumped up. Pedal on the floor... I don't care if I have 15% braking capacity, it's not good enough, when the pedal hits the floor is when the panic sets in.

Like you say, this is a tough area to treat with oil based rust proofing products because of the turbulence and wheel wash. Woolwax is a better option than FF for those, but still needs re-sprays.

Yep. I've started playing with RP-342 (cosmoline) instead of Fluid Film, although I recall respraying FF a couple times in winter, years ago, trying to stave off the rust.

 

[Mechanician]

Yep. I have thread somewhere on it. Bad cam at 180k. Apparently the 2003 K24’s are known for it.

Edit. Not fully gone of course, just a good chunk. Runs pretty good though.

This is another thing, besides rusted brake lines, that doesn't happen much in the South.
Unless the vehicle was brought down from the North.

 

[eljefino]

I've never had a happy experience blowing a brake line. The much-exhaulted "dual chamber MC" lets the pedal drop to 1/2 inch above the carpet before doing some work. Of course it's when you need the most braking pressure you've needed over the last couple weeks, that you pop the line, and now have less to work with.

OP, if you're going to junk it, what's holding you back from learning how to flare brake lines? It's a perversely fun skill (IMO), in that it sucks so much, is so miserable, that it's actually fun!

I'd worry about the caliper bleed screws snapping. That can get expensive if you're not capable of extracting the left over bits.

 

[GSCJR]

If the engine was healthy, yes fix it. Engine ain't healthy. Time to punt it down the road. My opinion only.

+1

 

[supton]

OP, if you're going to junk it, what's holding you back from learning how to flare brake lines? It's a perversely fun skill (IMO), in that it sucks so much, is so miserable, that it's actually fun!

Ha! fair point. At the moment, I can't take it down, as I have 3 vehicles for 4 drivers going 4 directions some days of the week. Car pooling is plausible, but at some point, it becomes too painful.

For having a brake repair (or any repair), the daughter can drop the car off at the garage as it's literally across the street from her high school, and pick up at end of school day (if all the stars align).

I'd worry about the caliper bleed screws snapping. That can get expensive if you're not capable of extracting the left over bits.

I find the caliper is seized right around that time, or before, so remans go on before that's a real problem. On this caliper, it was the first one where the piston was not fully seized (usually they are), but since it was done for, off it came.

 

[TurboTravis]

Run it until it pops