Low use vehicles - OCI and filter replacement?

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I have an Toyota MR2 Turbo that I drive between 400-1000 miles per year.

How often would you change the oil in this scenario?

Should I change the filter every year or every other year?

I've been changing the oil and filter once each year.
 
Every year is fine. I assume you warm it up good whenever you start it.

Could probably pull off every other year, since I assume you run syn with the turbo. Do you park all winter?
 
I think you are right on track. For quite a while, I managed two vehicles for my parents, who after their health declined and could no longer drive, wanted to keep them. I drove each one ('97 Chevy P/U and '91 Cadillac Brougham) once a month.

With this routine, they got about 800 miles/year. I changed out oil & filter once a year. It was cheap and easy insurance. No reason to push it to two years to try to save $18. Today I still have Dads truck, runs perfect, zero consumption.
 
The oil used in the car has been 10W30 Mobile 1 since 1994, shortly after it was purchased. I typically use the OE Toyota filters, although I tried a Purolator filter once. It didn't fit the filter wrench very well so I switched back to the OE filter.

It just seems like such a waste to recycle oil that only has a few hundred miles on it. I use the more expensive synthetic oil because of the journal type bearing in the old fashioned turbo charger.

The reason I'm changing it every year is just to avoid corrosive contaminates sitting in there for an extended period of time, although I'm not sure if it's a legitimate concern.

Maybe I should save some $$$ and extend the oil change interval a few months?
 
I have 2 Corvettes-a 95 and an 02 Z06. Drive each car about 50 miles or less per week. The 02 has an OLM. The last OCI was 22 months and 4200 miles. The OLM indicated 35% left. I had the analysis by Blackstone-TBN was great, the only note was higher than expected copper which can be attributed to the engine typical GM engine only having 10K miles on it at the start of the oc.
Yearly, or every other year is more than sufficient, as another poster indicated it gets fully warmed up
Steve
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Every year is fine. I assume you warm it up good whenever you start it.

Could probably pull off every other year, since I assume you run syn with the turbo. Do you park all winter?


During the winter, I try to take the car out and drive it whenever the roads are dry just to get it warmed up. It's terrible for a car to sit without running it.
 
Originally Posted By: steve20
I have 2 Corvettes-a 95 and an 02 Z06. Drive each car about 50 miles or less per week. The 02 has an OLM. The last OCI was 22 months and 4200 miles. The OLM indicated 35% left. I had the analysis by Blackstone-TBN was great, the only note was higher than expected copper which can be attributed to the engine typical GM engine only having 10K miles on it at the start of the oc.
Yearly, or every other year is more than sufficient, as another poster indicated it gets fully warmed up
Steve


High copper, huh? Interesting. I also have a 2008 Mazdaspeed 3 that only gets driven about 3000 miles/ year. The Blackstone used oil analysis also came back with everything in the normal range except for copper, which was very high.

I hate to get off topic, but where do you think the copper is coming from in the new engine?
 
Originally Posted By: jjjxlr8

It just seems like such a waste to recycle oil that only has a few hundred miles on it.

The reason I'm changing it every year is just to avoid corrosive contaminates sitting in there for an extended period of time, although I'm not sure if it's a legitimate concern.


"Corrosive contaminates", thats the concern here. Oil might be "young" mileage wise, but contaminants build up with sporadic use. $15-$18 is cheap, cheap, CHEAP insurance for a full year!
 
If your car has an oil cooler they are notorious fo throwing high copper for the first 20K miles or so. If not I am thinking bearing break in.I thought the UOA was rather good for this engine --copper was only at 83, if I recall.It is probably the most conservatively driven Z06 in the world--If I have gotten on it 10 times in 2 1/2 years I've owned it that would be a lot. It is more than enough to just drive this thing at half throttle or less

Steve
 
Originally Posted By: gfh77665

"Corrosive contaminates", thats the concern here. Oil might be "young" mileage wise, but contaminants build up with sporadic use. $15-$18 is cheap, cheap, CHEAP insurance for a full year!


It's more like $40 ($35 for oil and $5 for filter), but I guess it's still money well spent.

Is there any concern with oil filter media breaking down over time if I went to a 2 year period for changing it?

$5 isn't a big deal, but it's a pain changing the filter on this car as it's mid-engine with the filter in the back. It sits on top with right next to the exhaust manifold and always leaks all over the place when you remove it. I spend more time wiping up the mess from the filter than doing the whole oil change. Last thing I want is a fire.
 
Try a quality syn that you can get for $20-$22 dollars, QS UD for example. The filter media should be fine for 2 years, but I would not go past that. Oil every year, and filter every other year would be great insurance for your car.
 
MY BIL purchased a 1999 Porsche Boxster in 2004 with 9,000 original factory mileage on the oil. He sent it to Terry for analysis and it came back that the factory installed Mobil 1 5W-40 oil was still ok after 5 years and 9,000 miles. The previous owner drove the vehicle as a Porsche should be driven. Not as a daily driver. Of course the sump of the Boxster is almost 9 quarts which helps. The UOA should still be in the UOA on this site.

Whimsey
 
fyi

Quote:
Per Caterpillar, high levels of copper found in oil analysis are a result of engine cooler core “leaching”. The zinc additive in diesel motor oils reacts with the copper cooler core tubes at high oil temperatures. This chemical reaction results in copper oxidation products forming on the surface of the tubes and then coming off into the oil as it washes over and around the tubes. Heat is a catalyst to this chemical reaction- the higher the oil temperature the greater the rate of oxidation and the longer the reaction process is sustained. This does not cause any damage to the cooler core, or to the engine. However, you will see the copper reading elevate to over 100 PPM. Copper is not a particulate in this case but is in solution in the oil. The PPM will start relatively low and increase over 100 PPM and stay at high levels for several intervals, and then return to normal. During the oxidation process, a hard film forms on the tube surfaces exhibiting the appearance of clear varnish. Changes in operating temperatures, and /or changing oil brands can chemically disrupt this film and begin the oxidative leaching processes again. This can occur in any system with a cooler core: Diesel or gasoline engines, Transmissions or Hydraulic systems.
 
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