Low Mileage Vehicle with PP. Use oil past a year?

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May 31, 2022
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I have a for fun vehicle (sports car) that I drive a few thousand miles a year, and it gets "stored" for about 4-5 months out of the year.

Typically I change the oil every spring when I bring her out on the road again, but I'm wondering if I am just wasting oil.

The engine is a 2013 5.0 Coyote. I run 5w30 Pennzoil Platinum in it, and typically put about 3,000mi/year on it. The OCI from Ford is either 7500 or 10.000 and 1 year with semi synth Ford blend. I live in an arid climate (SW U.S.). I try to remember to run her on a short drive or at least idle for 20 minutes at least once a month while "storing" to dry out the oil and lube her up.

I've religiously changed the oil when the computer says to (1 year) even in the year when shan hit the fit an it only had like 800 mi on it. Is that necessary or can I run the oil until the mileage OCI without worry?
 
With 3K miles per year, I would run the oil for 2 years (6K miles). Even 3 years if less than 5K miles on it ... but more importantly, I would drive the car long enough (not idle) to get the engine and oil hot. Maybe drive it for 30 minutes or so. Idling is not good enough. Skip your "idle" month if busy or raining and drive it the next month. Leave it on a charger.
 
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I let the Firebird FORMULA(owned since new) in my signature sits for the full 6+ months here in the northeast without starting/idling EVER.

I do an oil filter change ever 2 years and I have gone 3 years. I only put on ~1000 miles/year. The oil is still clean looking(on the dipstick) when I change it and dark in the drain pan. However, I know that doesn't tell the whole story. Engine runs GREAT!

I do use a high mileage oil(Pennzoil HM) as I do have some drips. Over the years the high mileage oils have certainly slowed down the drips considerably. I have used several brands of HM oils.
 
Since you do take the vehicle out for a good run using a top notch oil, I would change the oil every two years.
 
I suspect, given the conditions you describe, that 3 years would be easily doable.
I realize that's not the BITOG way ... heresy, as it were. So let me talk you down off the cliff.

- First, pull a UOA at the end of the first year; get a baseline. If it's good, continue your OCI into its second year.
- At the end of the second year, pull another UOA. It's likely to be perfectly fine; continue into your third year.
- At the end of the third year, pull another UOA. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.
Yes - this will cost a little bit of extra money (UOAs). But if you want to use logic and not hyperbole, you have to get facts.

I can tell you that I've run MANY of my vehicles/equipment well past a year; typically out to 3 years or 15k miles. Not once has any UOA indicated anything but decent numbers. But folks around here just can't get past that old OCD adage of "cheap insurance" oil changes.

Do what you want; whatever makes you feel good. But if you want to save money in the long term AND add to the BITOG knowledge base, do what I suggest above.
 
I would change it every year. I have no backup proof however I would think clean oil in storage should prevent leaks if nothing else. Just buy an inexpensive full synthetic oil and change it every year and be on the safe side. You should be ok with skipping the filter however filters are inexpensive too. Plus, you can honestly tell the next person who gets the vehicle you changed it every year. It's only about $25 to $30 for the entire job if you DIY. When it comes to chemical reactions with contaminated oil you never know for sure what can happen to such an expensive engine and better to be safe than sorry and maybe the engine will run without burning oil or leaking for many years.
 
Every other year for me. But when it's time to shut it down for the year, it's not fired back up until it's time. I think last winter it sat from mid November to late April.
 
Make SURE you use a quality full synthetic media filter-the cellulose ones shouldn’t be used for over a year. Or at least change the filter & top off every spring.
I’ve got a Fram Synthetic Endurance on my zero-turn. I wouldn’t put anything less capable on my vehicles than on my OPE. $12 for a top-tier filter is a pennies cost to prevent thousands of dollars of potential repairs. 👍🏻
 
I'd change it every year. That's what I do with my FRS which sees approximately the same annual mileage before it gets stored during the winter months. Fresh oil goes in before winter along with fuel stabilizer in the tank. In spring I take it out, bring it up to temperature with a nice drive to burn off any moisture that may be in the oil.
 
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