Low mileage Hundai Kona 5w-20 or 5w-30?

No GDI?
1. I would do severe service OCI
2. Something meeting a minimum of: API SN
3. Something meeting the cold crank properties for your change interval's ambient temp (5w-x, 10w-x, 15w-x, 20w-x?)
4. Personally, I would pick a HTHS 2.8 - 3.6
5. Personally, the most cost-effective way to get all the above.
 
GimmeTorq,
We absolutely LOVE the Kona. Be sure to pay the extra little bit for the Tech Package, as it gives you a lot of options for a small price. We went with SEL trim with FWD because AWD kills the fuel economy and probably hurts the handling hauling around 200 extra pounds in the back. We see 29 mpg combined almost always. The SEL is the 2.0L Atkinson Cycle engine. It has plenty of power in the light FWD model and can get mpg in the high 30's if you keep it at 55-62mph. The FWD is a light vehicle, 2800+lbs. It is one of the best handling vehicles I've ever driven. Ride is firm, but it absorbs bumps very well. Easy to park because its a short vehicle. Roomy inside. Comfortable. And at 17k no issues since new! Its a 2019.
You will need a 79-80mm oil filter socket to change the oil as the filter is accessible only thru a slot in the plastic belly pan. Do a web search as a guy bought all the 79-80mm sockets commonly available and tested them and the cheap Chinese ones marked "904" supposedly fit the best. I've made do with mine that I have to pound on and pry off of the filter. ...Got the 904 for this oil change.
 
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Split the difference : 5W30 D1 / Gen 2 rated synthetic oil April to Oct. and same in 5W20 from Oct. to April (with 5K mile OCI's) .


^^^^^^this
 
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Another thread challenge where we try to out smart engineers and engine builders.



01.gif
 
Originally Posted by Jimmy_Russells
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Another thread challenge where we try to out smart engineers and engine builders.



01.gif


That's really not difficult to outsmart engineers. The reason is every vehicle engine built is different from the next and different from the prior.

Plus, that's really not difficult to do Part 2. The reason is - we drive those same exact vehicles and same exact engines differently. No two drivers are alike.

Lastly, mathematics whiz-engineers do not decide what's best for our engine. See my two sentences above for more detail. There are no specific oils (vicosities included) that provide us with best guarantees during all driving conditions / all driver-style conditions. We need to play the engineer-whiz, to accomplish what's best for us - for our engines.

If one doesn't know how to play, they come to BITOG to seek guidance. Sometimes the most proper guidance comes from the backyard mechanic, not the math engineer whiz.
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Jimmy_Russells
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Another thread challenge where we try to out smart engineers and engine builders.



01.gif


That's really not difficult to outsmart engineers. The reason is every vehicle engine built is different from the next and different from the prior.

Plus, that's really not difficult to do Part 2. The reason is - we drive those same exact vehicles and same exact engines differently. No two drivers are alike.

Lastly, mathematics whiz-engineers do not decide what's best for our engine. See my two sentences above for more detail. There are no specific oils (vicosities included) that provide us with best guarantees during all driving conditions / all driver-style conditions. We need to play the engineer-whiz, to accomplish what's best for us - for our engines.

If one doesn't know how to play, they come to BITOG to seek guidance. Sometimes the most proper guidance comes from the backyard mechanic, not the math engineer whiz.


Uhh yeah. None of that is considered when the engine is designed
crazy.gif
. Also the last sentence is just nonsense.

Thanks for the laugh though
lol.gif
 
I have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra with the 2.0 engine. I run Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 year round. Depending on how I drive it, I average between 38 and 42mpg.

L8R,
Matt
 
Originally Posted by j_mac
GimmeTorq,
We absolutely LOVE the Kona. Be sure to pay the extra little bit for the Tech Package, as it gives you a lot of options for a small price. We went with SEL trim with FWD because AWD kills the fuel economy and probably hurts the handling hauling around 200 extra pounds in the back. We see 29 mpg combined almost always. The SEL is the 2.0L Atkinson Cycle engine. It has plenty of power in the light FWD model and can get mpg in the high 30's if you keep it at 55-62mph. The FWD is a light vehicle, 2800+lbs. It is one of the best handling vehicles I've ever driven. Ride is firm, but it absorbs bumps very well. Easy to park because its a short vehicle. Roomy inside. Comfortable. And at 17k no issues since new! Its a 2019.
You will need a 79-80mm oil filter socket to change the oil as the filter is accessible only thru a slot in the plastic belly pan. Do a web search as a guy bought all the 79-80mm sockets commonly available and tested them and the cheap Chinese ones marked "904" supposedly fit the best. I've made do with mine that I have to pound on and pry off of the filter. ...Got the 904 for this oil change.


Thanks for the info. Enjoy your Kona!
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Glad to read it's working well Matt. I have two OCIs of Platinum and Platinum HM coming up for my 2.0. Gonna' blend them together.


I must say for the first year, I used both Platinum and QS Ultimate 5w20. But I've been using 5w30 since and right now the Elantra has just under 51k on it. As for HM oil, I just started using it in my 2010 Chrysler Sebring on the last OC. Right now she's sitting at 199.5k on the odometer.

L8R,
Matt
 
My HM oil was a mistake purchase. Both the regular Platinum and HM Platinum jugs look somewhat alike. I didn't realize my mistake until I unsealed the cap. Now I will use it blended, as my two Korean vehicles are almost new and not in need of HM oil.
 
I also like the Kona and it's sibling, the Kia Seltos. I'm considering one for my daughter but am also interested in some of Mazdas offerings. Has the 2.0 Hyundai any engine issues like the 2.4 has (or had)?
 
Considering the issues with Hyundai and Kia engines over the last 10 years, I would definitely go with a 30.
 
Considering the issues with Hyundai and Kia engines over the last 10 years, I would definitely go with a 30.
My daughter's 2008 Elantra has been very reliable so I was hoping that they fixed the issues that plagued later Hyundai 4 cylinder engines...Does anybody know the answer?
 
Could care less if any automaker has or hasn't fixed their issues

My recommendation will be one grade higher than what was recommended, for best mpg by the automaker, if your weather patterns are ok with the one grade higher

I'd also recommend full synthetic oil and better than recommended oil/filter change intervals

WV should be fine with 5w30 synthetic year round. Feel free to use up any 5w20 you have and move to the 5w30 if you want to.

Any brand or marketing type can be used. So, feel free to use PP, PUP, PPHM, FSMO, Euro,.. whatever including all the other brands.
 
2020 Kia Soul LX with 2.0 Atkinson -- using VAS 5w30 here with OEM filter -- no issues to report.

If the OP's Kona has the IVT (Hyundai/Kia's in-house developed CVT), make sure to have all available firmware updates applied, as there are reports of some of these units self-destructing while the vehicle is at speed. The firmware update is supposed to prevent this (some say the wrong firmware was applied at the factory to 2020 units assembled prior to 4/2020, allowing the IVT to operate outside of design specs, resulting in possible premature catastrophic failure of the transmission). Just an FYI.
 
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