WiskyBadger
Site Donor 2025
Synthetic every 3000? What a waste. With all these posts you have learned nothing.
Looking for some good 0w-20. Any suggestions?
- Thread starter gregk24
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Originally Posted By: ChevyBadger
Synthetic every 3000? What a waste. With all these posts you have learned nothing.
True that. Same for mineral oil.
Not to me it isnt, as you know short trips lead to fuel dilution, and sometimes condensation. I like to flush that out before it becomes and issue. I would give it a highway run every now and then, but its way out of my way to do that. Im busy as is with school and work, Im not going to spend my time (as some of you have suggested) taking my car out on the highway once a week (which by the time i did that and made it back home) would be over an hour. The gas I save from not doing that easily pays the extra $10 maybe for the price of synthetic oil. You all have your opinions, so I can too.
Originally Posted By: ChevyBadger
Synthetic every 3000? What a waste. With all these posts you have learned nothing.
True that. Same for mineral oil.
Not to me it isnt, as you know short trips lead to fuel dilution, and sometimes condensation. I like to flush that out before it becomes and issue. I would give it a highway run every now and then, but its way out of my way to do that. Im busy as is with school and work, Im not going to spend my time (as some of you have suggested) taking my car out on the highway once a week (which by the time i did that and made it back home) would be over an hour. The gas I save from not doing that easily pays the extra $10 maybe for the price of synthetic oil. You all have your opinions, so I can too.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Hallmark
Living in warm-hot Florida temps makes the start-up viscosity issue a moot point.
It depends on how you drive. I live in Texas, next to an access road to I10, so I often need to hit 50mph coming out of my home. At 100F, the oil viscosity is still way off relative to what engine needs, but in Florida temps, the oil should warm up fast enough.
Living in warm-hot Florida temps makes the start-up viscosity issue a moot point.
It depends on how you drive. I live in Texas, next to an access road to I10, so I often need to hit 50mph coming out of my home. At 100F, the oil viscosity is still way off relative to what engine needs, but in Florida temps, the oil should warm up fast enough.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Originally Posted By: ChevyBadger
Synthetic every 3000? What a waste. With all these posts you have learned nothing.
True that. Same for mineral oil.
Not to me it isnt, as you know short trips lead to fuel dilution, and sometimes condensation. I like to flush that out before it becomes and issue. I would give it a highway run every now and then, but its way out of my way to do that. Im busy as is with school and work, Im not going to spend my time (as some of you have suggested) taking my car out on the highway once a week (which by the time i did that and made it back home) would be over an hour. The gas I save from not doing that easily pays the extra $10 maybe for the price of synthetic oil. You all have your opinions, so I can too.
I think the point being made here and on your other thread (and the dozens of others asking the same questions) is that for a 3k miles OCI any of the good 5w30 conventional oils would be just fine in Florida...personally I'd get the cheapest and known high quality conventional, OR SYN, available when you go shopping...like the Pennzoil Platinum 0w30 synthetic and filter for $10 this spring.
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Originally Posted By: ChevyBadger
Synthetic every 3000? What a waste. With all these posts you have learned nothing.
True that. Same for mineral oil.
Not to me it isnt, as you know short trips lead to fuel dilution, and sometimes condensation. I like to flush that out before it becomes and issue. I would give it a highway run every now and then, but its way out of my way to do that. Im busy as is with school and work, Im not going to spend my time (as some of you have suggested) taking my car out on the highway once a week (which by the time i did that and made it back home) would be over an hour. The gas I save from not doing that easily pays the extra $10 maybe for the price of synthetic oil. You all have your opinions, so I can too.
I think the point being made here and on your other thread (and the dozens of others asking the same questions) is that for a 3k miles OCI any of the good 5w30 conventional oils would be just fine in Florida...personally I'd get the cheapest and known high quality conventional, OR SYN, available when you go shopping...like the Pennzoil Platinum 0w30 synthetic and filter for $10 this spring.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: gregk24
After finding out that Honda made 0w-20 backward compatible I would like to start using it in my 2006 Honda Accord 2.4. I like the fact that the 0w-20 flows better at start up than a 5w-20. Should I just use Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 or is there something better for my application? Ive read a little about TGMO and it seems to be good, but many talk about VI or something, and that TGMO is SUPER light at start up, much lighter than other 0w-20...is this true? and would it pose a problem for my car? What would be the best 0w-20 to run year round in my Accord (2006 113,000 miles). If it will cause more harm than good then ill just stick to 5w-20, but if the lighter at start up thing is better, I would rather use a 0w-20. Would TGMO be the best 0w-20 or is it TOO light? and can someone explain what VI means?
Since you live in Florida, a 5W20 would probably do fine. Also, there are used analysis reports on this web site showing Honda 2.4L does exceptionally well even with conventional 5W20, so don't over-think this issue. A conventional oil would do well for 5-7K mile drain (depending on duty cycle). Use quality synthetic if you need long drain capability. Note that synthetic oil can pose problems for older car, and that is the issues with seals and gaskets. Some of them harden and start getting wet and leaky. Synthetics tend to make this worse. It depends on the car. You won't find out until you test it.
After finding out that Honda made 0w-20 backward compatible I would like to start using it in my 2006 Honda Accord 2.4. I like the fact that the 0w-20 flows better at start up than a 5w-20. Should I just use Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 or is there something better for my application? Ive read a little about TGMO and it seems to be good, but many talk about VI or something, and that TGMO is SUPER light at start up, much lighter than other 0w-20...is this true? and would it pose a problem for my car? What would be the best 0w-20 to run year round in my Accord (2006 113,000 miles). If it will cause more harm than good then ill just stick to 5w-20, but if the lighter at start up thing is better, I would rather use a 0w-20. Would TGMO be the best 0w-20 or is it TOO light? and can someone explain what VI means?
Since you live in Florida, a 5W20 would probably do fine. Also, there are used analysis reports on this web site showing Honda 2.4L does exceptionally well even with conventional 5W20, so don't over-think this issue. A conventional oil would do well for 5-7K mile drain (depending on duty cycle). Use quality synthetic if you need long drain capability. Note that synthetic oil can pose problems for older car, and that is the issues with seals and gaskets. Some of them harden and start getting wet and leaky. Synthetics tend to make this worse. It depends on the car. You won't find out until you test it.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Zako2
Originally Posted By: gregk24
After finding out that Honda made 0w-20 backward compatible I would like to start using it in my 2006 Honda Accord 2.4. I like the fact that the 0w-20 flows better at start up than a 5w-20. Should I just use Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 or is there something better for my application? Ive read a little about TGMO and it seems to be good, but many talk about VI or something, and that TGMO is SUPER light at start up, much lighter than other 0w-20...is this true? and would it pose a problem for my car? What would be the best 0w-20 to run year round in my Accord (2006 113,000 miles). If it will cause more harm than good then ill just stick to 5w-20, but if the lighter at start up thing is better, I would rather use a 0w-20. Would TGMO be the best 0w-20 or is it TOO light? and can someone explain what VI means?
Since you live in Florida, a 5W20 would probably do fine. Also, there are used analysis reports on this web site showing Honda 2.4L does exceptionally well even with conventional 5W20, so don't over-think this issue. A conventional oil would do well for 5-7K mile drain (depending on duty cycle). Use quality synthetic if you need long drain capability. Note that synthetic oil can pose problems for older car, and that is the issues with seals and gaskets. Some of them harden and start getting wet and leaky. Synthetics tend to make this worse. It depends on the car. You won't find out until you test it.
Ive used synthetic since i got the car (1.5 years ago, for 16,000 miles) no issues yet. And the ONLY reason Im interested in the 0-20 vs 5-20 is for the many starts and short trips I do.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
After finding out that Honda made 0w-20 backward compatible I would like to start using it in my 2006 Honda Accord 2.4. I like the fact that the 0w-20 flows better at start up than a 5w-20. Should I just use Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 or is there something better for my application? Ive read a little about TGMO and it seems to be good, but many talk about VI or something, and that TGMO is SUPER light at start up, much lighter than other 0w-20...is this true? and would it pose a problem for my car? What would be the best 0w-20 to run year round in my Accord (2006 113,000 miles). If it will cause more harm than good then ill just stick to 5w-20, but if the lighter at start up thing is better, I would rather use a 0w-20. Would TGMO be the best 0w-20 or is it TOO light? and can someone explain what VI means?
Since you live in Florida, a 5W20 would probably do fine. Also, there are used analysis reports on this web site showing Honda 2.4L does exceptionally well even with conventional 5W20, so don't over-think this issue. A conventional oil would do well for 5-7K mile drain (depending on duty cycle). Use quality synthetic if you need long drain capability. Note that synthetic oil can pose problems for older car, and that is the issues with seals and gaskets. Some of them harden and start getting wet and leaky. Synthetics tend to make this worse. It depends on the car. You won't find out until you test it.
Ive used synthetic since i got the car (1.5 years ago, for 16,000 miles) no issues yet. And the ONLY reason Im interested in the 0-20 vs 5-20 is for the many starts and short trips I do.
Sounds reasonable. If there is no leak, you can stick with the 0W20s. My understanding, the 0W20 doesn't stay in top condition as long as a comparable 5W20 due to using more viscosity improvers, but that shouldn't be an problem for short drains. For the short drains you have in mind, I'd probably just grab Mobil Super 0W20 or Quaker State Ultimate Durability 0W20 from a Walmart.
Here is one case where I think a used oil analysis is actually quite useful and could save $$.
used oil analysis at 3k miles and you'll see the oil is fine. Extend to 5k and save $ and time.
used oil analysis at 3k miles and you'll see the oil is fine. Extend to 5k and save $ and time.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Yes....I change my oil every 3000 miles regardless.
Waste of money and resources. You can say do whatever makes you happy, but waste is still waste and just because we CAN waste in this country doesn't mean we should.
Yes....I change my oil every 3000 miles regardless.
Waste of money and resources. You can say do whatever makes you happy, but waste is still waste and just because we CAN waste in this country doesn't mean we should.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Hallmark
Living in warm-hot Florida temps makes the start-up viscosity issue a moot point.
A common myth.
Even a room temperature a the High VI OEM 0W-20s such as TGMO and Mazda moly 0W-20 will be about 30% lighter than a 5W-20 and still a bit lighter at normal operating temp's.
Put simply, it is a lighter oil and if a 0W-20 is specified, you will benefit using an OEM 0W-20.
Caterham:
Does the use of a high VI 0W20 over a more "normal" 0W20 guarantee:
A) That I will have less accumulative engine wear during my engine's first 100,000 miles?
B) That I will SEE higher real world mpg?
C) Offer any additional benefits once the engine is warmed up?
D) Be a benefit, drawback or no factor while I am stuck in southern USA bumper to bumper traffic, OR desert
temperature driving.
Full disclosure. I have a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid with 86,000 miles. Although my car does not specify 0W20, I am way out of the warranty period - so I use what ever oil I want. I normally use the low VI (159) Motorcraft 5W20 FULL Synthetic, have a partial case of the medium VI (171) Chevron 0W20, and have two cases of the high VI Toyota 0W20. I had one UOA done on the Motorcraft oil, which resulted in a FE of 5 over the course of 6,300 miles.
During my daily 35 mile highway drive to work, I have obtained all time mpg highs of 52 mpg and change (by the daily digital readout), using Toyota 0W20. Also matched it with the Chevron oil. With the Motorcraft, my best is 51 mpg. It is not a fair comparison because I ran the Toyota oil in winter, the Chevron oil in spring, and the Motorcraft in spring/summer. Since a local guy sold me the Toyota oil from craigslist for $2/qt, I could not walk away from it - even though it does not technically meet Ford specs. The bottom line, for me is I'll use up my stash of Toyota oil during winter and Motorcraft oil anytime it is not winter. I wish I could get more Havoline 0W20 at a good price, because it claims to meet Ford specs (don't have the data sheet in front of me), and it ran very quiet in my engine. That would be my favorite, if that was the case.
Originally Posted By: Hallmark
Living in warm-hot Florida temps makes the start-up viscosity issue a moot point.
A common myth.
Even a room temperature a the High VI OEM 0W-20s such as TGMO and Mazda moly 0W-20 will be about 30% lighter than a 5W-20 and still a bit lighter at normal operating temp's.
Put simply, it is a lighter oil and if a 0W-20 is specified, you will benefit using an OEM 0W-20.
Caterham:
Does the use of a high VI 0W20 over a more "normal" 0W20 guarantee:
A) That I will have less accumulative engine wear during my engine's first 100,000 miles?
B) That I will SEE higher real world mpg?
C) Offer any additional benefits once the engine is warmed up?
D) Be a benefit, drawback or no factor while I am stuck in southern USA bumper to bumper traffic, OR desert
temperature driving.
Full disclosure. I have a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid with 86,000 miles. Although my car does not specify 0W20, I am way out of the warranty period - so I use what ever oil I want. I normally use the low VI (159) Motorcraft 5W20 FULL Synthetic, have a partial case of the medium VI (171) Chevron 0W20, and have two cases of the high VI Toyota 0W20. I had one UOA done on the Motorcraft oil, which resulted in a FE of 5 over the course of 6,300 miles.
During my daily 35 mile highway drive to work, I have obtained all time mpg highs of 52 mpg and change (by the daily digital readout), using Toyota 0W20. Also matched it with the Chevron oil. With the Motorcraft, my best is 51 mpg. It is not a fair comparison because I ran the Toyota oil in winter, the Chevron oil in spring, and the Motorcraft in spring/summer. Since a local guy sold me the Toyota oil from craigslist for $2/qt, I could not walk away from it - even though it does not technically meet Ford specs. The bottom line, for me is I'll use up my stash of Toyota oil during winter and Motorcraft oil anytime it is not winter. I wish I could get more Havoline 0W20 at a good price, because it claims to meet Ford specs (don't have the data sheet in front of me), and it ran very quiet in my engine. That would be my favorite, if that was the case.
Originally Posted By: Best F100
Does the use of a high VI 0W20 over a more "normal" 0W20 guarantee:
A) That I will have less accumulative engine wear during my engine's first 100,000 miles?
B) That I will SEE higher real world mpg?
C) Offer any additional benefits once the engine is warmed up?
D) Be a benefit, drawback or no factor while I am stuck in southern USA bumper to bumper traffic, OR desert
temperature driving.
With respect to A, you'd have to do a tear down and compare two identical vehicles used under identical conditions with the only variable being the oil. In theory, you will see less wear, but the error bars are going to be much larger than the difference in the data points. The same goes for fuel economy. There will be a benefit. Whether or not you can notice it depends to what lengths you're going to go to measure it. If you take your vehicle to a dyno to simulate EPA or European or Environment Canada testing, you might see a difference. In the real world, your error bars are going to be way to large to actually see the difference. As for D, a high VI oil will actually thin less as it warms up. Of course, that's assuming it hasn't sheared or been diluted in the first place, but that applies to any grade and any VI.
Does the use of a high VI 0W20 over a more "normal" 0W20 guarantee:
A) That I will have less accumulative engine wear during my engine's first 100,000 miles?
B) That I will SEE higher real world mpg?
C) Offer any additional benefits once the engine is warmed up?
D) Be a benefit, drawback or no factor while I am stuck in southern USA bumper to bumper traffic, OR desert
temperature driving.
With respect to A, you'd have to do a tear down and compare two identical vehicles used under identical conditions with the only variable being the oil. In theory, you will see less wear, but the error bars are going to be much larger than the difference in the data points. The same goes for fuel economy. There will be a benefit. Whether or not you can notice it depends to what lengths you're going to go to measure it. If you take your vehicle to a dyno to simulate EPA or European or Environment Canada testing, you might see a difference. In the real world, your error bars are going to be way to large to actually see the difference. As for D, a high VI oil will actually thin less as it warms up. Of course, that's assuming it hasn't sheared or been diluted in the first place, but that applies to any grade and any VI.
In addition to Garak's good answer, I think the plan of using TGMO during the winter month's would maximize it's best attribute of being very light on start-up.
Is the Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 a good choice? Thinking of putting that oil on my next oil change.. Its a 2010 honda civic 1.8L and oil cap actually recommends 5w20..
A 0EM 0W-20 has been back spec'd for for 2010 Civic.
Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 is no lighter than Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 (which is cheaper) so why use it.
Besides both the Honda and particularly Toyota 0W-20's are more suitable oils plus they're both cheaper than Pennzoil Platinum, particularly TGMO at $5.65/L.
Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 is no lighter than Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 (which is cheaper) so why use it.
Besides both the Honda and particularly Toyota 0W-20's are more suitable oils plus they're both cheaper than Pennzoil Platinum, particularly TGMO at $5.65/L.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
A 0EM 0W-20 has been back spec'd for for 2010 Civic.
Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 is no lighter than Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 (which is cheaper) so why use it.
Besides both the Honda and particularly Toyota 0W-20's are more suitable oils plus they're both cheaper than Pennzoil Platinum, particularly TGMO at $5.65/L.
TGMO 0w20 from dealership in Canada or in the US? Also, what's the ideal OCI for the TGMO 0w20?
A 0EM 0W-20 has been back spec'd for for 2010 Civic.
Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 is no lighter than Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 (which is cheaper) so why use it.
Besides both the Honda and particularly Toyota 0W-20's are more suitable oils plus they're both cheaper than Pennzoil Platinum, particularly TGMO at $5.65/L.
TGMO 0w20 from dealership in Canada or in the US? Also, what's the ideal OCI for the TGMO 0w20?
Originally Posted By: mauric3
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
A 0EM 0W-20 has been back spec'd for for 2010 Civic.
Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 is no lighter than Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 (which is cheaper) so why use it.
Besides both the Honda and particularly Toyota 0W-20's are more suitable oils plus they're both cheaper than Pennzoil Platinum, particularly TGMO at $5.65/L.
TGMO 0w20 from dealership in Canada or in the US? Also, what's the ideal OCI for the TGMO 0w20?
That's the Cdn price I quoted although it can be had even cheaper:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...878#Post3040878
Under ideal conditions you could extend the OCI to 15,000 kms.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
A 0EM 0W-20 has been back spec'd for for 2010 Civic.
Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 is no lighter than Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 (which is cheaper) so why use it.
Besides both the Honda and particularly Toyota 0W-20's are more suitable oils plus they're both cheaper than Pennzoil Platinum, particularly TGMO at $5.65/L.
TGMO 0w20 from dealership in Canada or in the US? Also, what's the ideal OCI for the TGMO 0w20?
That's the Cdn price I quoted although it can be had even cheaper:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...878#Post3040878
Under ideal conditions you could extend the OCI to 15,000 kms.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: mauric3
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
A 0EM 0W-20 has been back spec'd for for 2010 Civic.
Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 is no lighter than Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 (which is cheaper) so why use it.
Besides both the Honda and particularly Toyota 0W-20's are more suitable oils plus they're both cheaper than Pennzoil Platinum, particularly TGMO at $5.65/L.
TGMO 0w20 from dealership in Canada or in the US? Also, what's the ideal OCI for the TGMO 0w20?
That's the Cdn price I quoted although it can be had even cheaper:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...878#Post3040878
Under ideal conditions you could extend the OCI to 15,000 kms.
Cool! I will give my local Toyota and Lexus dealesrhip a call later and ask for their pricing on the TGMO 0w20. .
AFAIK the Toyota 0w20 is a fully synthetic oil ?
Well.. I'm putting the 0w20 for my 2010 honda civic 1.8L.. I just usually follow the OLM .. Right now i'm at 15% and gonna be doing my service this weekend. Hopefully my local toyota or lexus would have those TGMO 0w20 in stock.. I guess ill just return the Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 to walmart when i have a chance
So the TGMO 0w20 should be alright when i just follow the OLM on my honda civic?
Originally Posted By: mauric3
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
A 0EM 0W-20 has been back spec'd for for 2010 Civic.
Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 is no lighter than Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 (which is cheaper) so why use it.
Besides both the Honda and particularly Toyota 0W-20's are more suitable oils plus they're both cheaper than Pennzoil Platinum, particularly TGMO at $5.65/L.
TGMO 0w20 from dealership in Canada or in the US? Also, what's the ideal OCI for the TGMO 0w20?
That's the Cdn price I quoted although it can be had even cheaper:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...878#Post3040878
Under ideal conditions you could extend the OCI to 15,000 kms.
Cool! I will give my local Toyota and Lexus dealesrhip a call later and ask for their pricing on the TGMO 0w20. .
AFAIK the Toyota 0w20 is a fully synthetic oil ?Well.. I'm putting the 0w20 for my 2010 honda civic 1.8L.. I just usually follow the OLM .. Right now i'm at 15% and gonna be doing my service this weekend. Hopefully my local toyota or lexus would have those TGMO 0w20 in stock.. I guess ill just return the Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 to walmart when i have a chance
Yes.
- Status
Similar threads
