Looking for a New Oil Filter

[Carlostrece]

That is currently incorrect. Maybe years ago. My list has the current PG made filters.

Fram and Champ Labs are both owned by First Brands which has the same QC problems as M+H.

Are Purolator also made by M&H?

 

[Glenda W.]

Are Purolator also made by M&H?

Yes

 

[ZeeOSix]

my point is that your niece is not the only person who neglects their cars. It's amazing what some oblivious people can do with some cars with no obvious consequences.

When it becomes "obvious" (like extreme wear or a blown engine ) it's past the point of doing anything about it.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Are Purolator also made by M&H?

As is Bosch. M+H bought Bosch before they eventually bought Purolator.

 

[Reloader59]

My Buick Park Ave can use any of these sizes of filters...
Wix 51036, Wix XP 51036XP
Baldwin B35-S
Purolator L24011, Purolator One PL24011
Fram Endurance, Fram Racing
What other filters should be on this list?

I'm looking for filters with filtration efficiency similar to Purolator One (15 microns nominal), good anti-drainback valve, good bypass valve, coil spring (no leaf spring), good flow and capacity.

A nice bonus would be if the can is thicker than a Purolator One can to help can withstand flying gravel hits when driving on gravel roads.

I've always used Wix 21 MC nom, or Baldwin 18 MC nom. I now realize I can get more efficient filtration for the same or less money from Purolator and others.

I'm trying to compile a list of contenders that are good, hopefully at a decent price. I'd prefer the price to be under $15 per filter.

The Purolator and Purolator One seem like strong contenders, but I wish they had a thicker/stronger can.

How good are these filters? Valvoline, Mobil One, Oreilly Microgard, Walmart Supertech? I think some of those might be disqualified due to having a leaf spring.

I'm open to considering other brands.

I change my oil once every 3-5 years, which is less than 1500-2500 miles 50/50 city highway. My car is parked in a partially climate controlled (but energy efficient) garage. Depending on time of year, my garage temp varies from 50-60F winter to 65-75F summer. So never a cold start below 50F. Rarely a cold start below 65F.

I changed my Maxlife Syn 5w30 oil this week at 3.5 years, 1747 miles. The old oil was medium brown. Not black at all. It almost looked like new. I switched from Maxlife Syn to Blend to hopefully stop or slow a minor drip. I replaced my old Baldwin B35-S filter with a new B35-S because I'd already bought it weeks ago. B35-S only filters 18 microns nominal. Purolator One filters 15 microns nominal.

I'm asking for suggestions to compile a list of good filters that are reasonable prices (under $15). Purolator One PL24011 costs $9.83 at Amazon or Walmart.

You can buy the Purolator One filter in a 6 pack for $6.58 each. You'll have enough to never need to worry about a filter again

 

[burbguy82]

I change my oil once every 3-5 years, which is less than 1500-2500 miles 50/50 city highway

that is a long time

 

[Fair enough]

that is a long time

It does go by though, not that bad.

 

[Carlostrece]

+1 on the napa/carquest and micro guard filters zeeosix suggests.

I'll also throw in the $10 stp XL line filters at AZ has as they're also good with metal crimp and seam, silicone adbv, 20um at 99%, tight spacing, and I don't see relief valve defects.

I'm pretty much decided on sourcing all of my filters from napa or az on my next filter run which I haven't done in well over a decade as I've been getting everything at Walmart but the filter prices there have risen too much and the quality is going down on the options available. A lower quality fram xg10575 at Walmart costs more than the equivalent napa/az filters.

It shocks me to hear you say NAPA filters cost less than Walmart filters. If you say it's that way in Texas, I take your word for it. In Washington and Oregon NAPA costs way more than anyplace else.

 

[Carlostrece]

that is a long time

True, but I check oil level every 250 miles. The Valvoline Maxlife Syn 5w30 I was using is very light color when new. At 1747 miles (3.5 years) it was medium brown. It still looked almost new. My garage is heated. My car is always at least 50F when it's started. 50/50 city highway driving. My moderate climate is seldom cold or hot. It's working out fine. The cars runs great and gets excellent gas mileage. I've been doing it this way for 15 years with no problems. Prior to that, I changed it annually.

If the oil was dark (or foamy), then I'd change it sooner.

 

[Carlostrece]

As is Bosch. M+H bought Bosch before they eventually bought Purolator.

I watched a video earlier today that said M&H were in a joint venture for a few years, but later they parted ways and are no longer affiliated.

 

[ZeeOSix]

I watched a video earlier today that said M&H were in a joint venture for a few years, but later they parted ways and are no longer affiliated.

Yes, I didn't recall correctly. Bosch was in with M+H on Purolator, then Bosch sold their share to M+H.

 

[GaryMX5]

AC Delco would be the OEM filter for a Buick and the most common ones are available at Walmart. Decent and redibly available filter. A pretty straightforward filter selection for that car.

 

[Carlostrece]

You can buy the Purolator One filter in a 6 pack for $6.58 each. You'll have enough to never need to worry about a filter again

It'd take 20 to 30 years for me to go through 6 filters. I'd rather buy 1 Purolator One at a time for $9.87 from Amazon Prime.

 

[Carlostrece]

AC Delco would be the OEM filter for a Buick and the most common ones are available at Walmart. Decent and redibly available filter. A pretty straightforward filter selection for that car.

I'll try to look into the specs on that filter to compare.

 

[D1dad]

Yes

What’s wrong with purolators? I just bought enough pure ones and Boss to last to 100k on our newer cars. I’ll still run them regardless. About the only filter I absolutely refuse to run would be the “gohner Nissan” filters. After having 3 cause start up rattle on my 18 rogue, and 09 Altima due to the adbv flipping open and staying there. I told the dealership who sold them to me and they could have cared less.

 

[Glenda W.]

What’s wrong with purolators? I just bought enough pure ones and Boss to last to 100k on our newer cars. I’ll still run them regardless. About the only filter I absolutely refuse to run would be the “gohner Nissan” filters. After having 3 cause start up rattle on my 18 rogue, and 09 Altima due to the adbv flipping open and staying there. I told the dealership who sold them to me and they could have cared less.

We’ve seen torn media, closed louvers, sloppy glue, cut ADBV’s. I will say over the last year we’ve seen less, not sure if it’s because of less c&p’s or less defects. M+H has also ruined Wix which I used for 20+ years.

 

[Patman]

It shocks me to hear you say NAPA filters cost less than Walmart filters. If you say it's that way in Texas, I take your word for it. In Washington and Oregon NAPA costs way more than anyplace else.

My local NAPA wants $16 CDN ($11.13 US) for a NAPA Gold but my local Carquest only charges $7.85 CDN ($5.46 US) for the Carquest Premium

 

[D1dad]

Napa is either, crazy over priced, or (what a deal). I’m slowly piecing together a brake kit for my wife’s 24 Altima that’ll need done in the next few years, and of course Napa was 30% less on 1 of the 4 items I needed. Yet, 50% more on the other 3. This is why I start 20k miles before I actually need the stuff.

 

[Glenda W.]

Napa is a last resort for a PG(Napa Gold) made filter due to price, but the only choice for some areas. AAP and O’Reillys have better deals when looking for PG filters. Usually once or twice a year Napa does have 50% off filters which is a good deal.

 

[burbguy82]

True, but I check oil level every 250 miles. The Valvoline Maxlife Syn 5w30 I was using is very light color when new. At 1747 miles (3.5 years) it was medium brown. It still looked almost new. My garage is heated. My car is always at least 50F when it's started. 50/50 city highway driving. My moderate climate is seldom cold or hot. It's working out fine. The cars runs great and gets excellent gas mileage. I've been doing it this way for 15 years with no problems. Prior to that, I changed it annually.

If the oil was dark (or foamy), then I'd change it sooner.

I wonder if the filter is designed to be in service for that long, especially toward the end of service. A lot of portions are rubber and glue.....very interesting topic.